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Need help pulling a DG200 from a 51 Commander

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  • Transmission: Need help pulling a DG200 from a 51 Commander

    Now that I have decided to pull the DG200 and replace it with the DG250 I need a little help. I have read the manual and overall I understand how to pull it. I will take it out from the bottom. Does the batwing need to be removed for this? If it does I will have to pull the exhaust also since they welded all the pipes together from the manifold. I assume that I will have to pull the entire transmission with bell housing. Can I unbolt the converter and take out just the rear section then go back and unbolt the bell from the engine and take it out? Anything else I should lookout for?
    I included pictures of the DG250

    51 Studebaker Starlight State Commander Coupe
    53 Studebaker Starlight Regal Commander Coupe
    62 Volvo PV544 Sport

  • #2
    If I were tackling this, without benefit of a hoist, I would separate the transmission from the bellhousing, and remove the transmission alone first. Try to avoid letting the weight of the transmission hang on the input shaft, as you might do internal damage to the converter. Use a rolling jack to move the tranny back and down. I have done this with a Flightomatic, but never a DG. Once the tranny is safely out, you can prop up the engine and remove the bellhousing, and then the converter. These are both heavy, but not so heavy that you need a jack.
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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    • #3
      Gord's idea will work fine, just one add; the ONLY place you can support a Stude. V8 without the Bellhousing installed without damage, is under the Pan Bolts.

      A useful Stude. Tool to have would be a 3/16" Thick Steel "U" to use on a Jack Stand or a Jack. In a pinch, good Hardwood might work 1 5/8" thick though.

      Be SURE you remember WHICH one of your Converter Housings is Factory (we hope) Mated to this Engine.

      Also carefully check that Flex Plate for hairline stress cracks around the Crankshaft Bolt Holes.
      Last edited by StudeRich; 05-21-2020, 10:32 PM.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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      • #4
        When I changed the Flightomatic on my Lark I made a cradle out of 2x4s, size per the shop manual, and then removed the cross member.
        With the engine supported this way it was easy to remove the bell housing. The exhaust may have to be removed for clearance.

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        • #5
          As I proceed : I have drained the trans and converter, all linkages, cables wires disconnected. Driveshaft disconnected and moved. Started removing batwing support bolts. Braced the engine. I was looking at the bell housing for later removal, it appears that the previous owner did not bolt it in the top 4 bolts. I do not see or feel any heads, just a hole. Also when I reassemble can the upper bell bolts be put in without removing the large transmission access plate? The jute and carpet where rubber cemented down over it.
          I removed the bell from the DG250M. The previous owner also welded the exhaust to a bracket that is welded to the bell housing. Makes it a bit tougher to move the exhaust. It is all welded pipes to one piece.
          51 Studebaker Starlight State Commander Coupe
          53 Studebaker Starlight Regal Commander Coupe
          62 Volvo PV544 Sport

          Comment


          • #6
            I finally removed the transmission. I had to remove it with the bell still on it.
            Question: The original bell has a broken dog ear at the top. Funny thing the entire transmission was only held in by the two side bolts. Never thought to see that before hand. Did not think anyone would do that. With the broken dog ear should I still use the original bell or use the other bell I have? These pictures are the original set up.

            Both bells have the same casting numbers.







            These pics are the 250M setup.

            51 Studebaker Starlight State Commander Coupe
            53 Studebaker Starlight Regal Commander Coupe
            62 Volvo PV544 Sport

            Comment


            • #7
              If you change the bell housing, you should dial it in.

              This is a question that should have been asked before now, but... are you sure the DG 250 is good?
              RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

              17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
              10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
              10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
              4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
              5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
              56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
              60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

              Comment


              • #8
                I could still use the original bell housing. The top dog year could be held in by a bolt and washer and then the rest of the bolts will send **** up. I received the transmission from a member in California who had pulled it and said it was working.
                51 Studebaker Starlight State Commander Coupe
                53 Studebaker Starlight Regal Commander Coupe
                62 Volvo PV544 Sport

                Comment


                • #9
                  Spell check
                  The top dog ear could be held in by a bolt and washer and then the rest of the bolts will send **** up.
                  "will still hold it up."
                  51 Studebaker Starlight State Commander Coupe
                  53 Studebaker Starlight Regal Commander Coupe
                  62 Volvo PV544 Sport

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I am not sure what that means either, but if it is about re-using the Housing with a missing bolt "Ear", it should not make a difference after the rest of the Bolts and TWO Dowel Pins are in.

                    If it is about holding the Converter Housing "Up" or "On", while dialing the Centerline of the Crankshaft to the same of the Trans.
                    All Bolts must be in and just slightly "Snug" and the Dowel Pins removed to allow Bumping the Housing around after measuring the off center with a Dial Indicator as Dozens of threads here have said.
                    StudeRich
                    Second Generation Stude Driver,
                    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      If it was my car, I would bolt the old bell housing up WITH the dowel pins in place and check the run out with a dial indicator. If the run out is good, I would use the old bell housing. I would also pull up the carpet, pull the inspection plate from the floor and use all of the bell housing bolts.
                      RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                      17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                      10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                      10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                      4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                      5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                      56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                      60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        This project has tested my level of expertise.....which is limited. I used a dial indicator to line up my ring gear in my 62 Volvo. I have to admit I do not know what you mean by "run out" I plan on installing all the bolts on the bell housing. I was just happy to successfully get the thing out without crushing myself. I plan on replacing the rear main seal and oil pan seal. They both leak.
                        51 Studebaker Starlight State Commander Coupe
                        53 Studebaker Starlight Regal Commander Coupe
                        62 Volvo PV544 Sport

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Dialing in the bell housing insures that the transmission input shaft and the engine crankshaft are concentric - their centers of rotation are the same.

                          Run out refers to how far out of alignment the two are. Ideally, you want them to be zero run out, or exactly concentric. While this is not possible in the real world, Studebaker engineers specified how far out of concentric they could be.

                          The specification is in the shop manual for the car or the manual for the transmission.
                          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                          17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                          10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                          56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                          60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
                            If it was my car, I would bolt the old bell housing up WITH the dowel pins in place and check the run out with a dial indicator. If the run out is good, I would use the old bell housing. I would also pull up the carpet, pull the inspection plate from the floor and use all of the bell housing bolts.
                            I second this. If the bell housing is original to the engine and the dowel pins have not been disturbed and there was no prior problem, I would probably just use the bell housing by using the pins and all of the bolts without dialing it in again.
                            Gary L.
                            Wappinger, NY

                            SDC member since 1968
                            Studebaker enthusiast much longer

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I have some additional pictures to share. Looking at these pics I do not think the rear main is leaking. It looks like the pan gasket is leaking. Can someone confirm this.? I do not think a need to replace the rear main just the pan gasket. That would be nice.

                              51 Studebaker Starlight State Commander Coupe
                              53 Studebaker Starlight Regal Commander Coupe
                              62 Volvo PV544 Sport

                              Comment

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