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Need help pulling a DG200 from a 51 Commander

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  • Transmission: Need help pulling a DG200 from a 51 Commander

    Now that I have decided to pull the DG200 and replace it with the DG250 I need a little help. I have read the manual and overall I understand how to pull it. I will take it out from the bottom. Does the batwing need to be removed for this? If it does I will have to pull the exhaust also since they welded all the pipes together from the manifold. I assume that I will have to pull the entire transmission with bell housing. Can I unbolt the converter and take out just the rear section then go back and unbolt the bell from the engine and take it out? Anything else I should lookout for?
    I included pictures of the DG250

    51 Studebaker Starlight State Commander Coupe
    53 Studebaker Starlight Regal Commander Coupe
    62 Volvo PV544 Sport

  • #2
    If I were tackling this, without benefit of a hoist, I would separate the transmission from the bellhousing, and remove the transmission alone first. Try to avoid letting the weight of the transmission hang on the input shaft, as you might do internal damage to the converter. Use a rolling jack to move the tranny back and down. I have done this with a Flightomatic, but never a DG. Once the tranny is safely out, you can prop up the engine and remove the bellhousing, and then the converter. These are both heavy, but not so heavy that you need a jack.
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands


    • #3
      Gord's idea will work fine, just one add; the ONLY place you can support a Stude. V8 without the Bellhousing installed without damage, is under the Pan Bolts.

      A useful Stude. Tool to have would be a 3/16" Thick Steel "U" to use on a Jack Stand or a Jack. In a pinch, good Hardwood might work 1 5/8" thick though.

      Be SURE you remember WHICH one of your Converter Housings is Factory (we hope) Mated to this Engine.

      Also carefully check that Flex Plate for hairline stress cracks around the Crankshaft Bolt Holes.
      Last edited by StudeRich; 05-21-2020, 10:32 PM.
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner


      • #4
        When I changed the Flightomatic on my Lark I made a cradle out of 2x4s, size per the shop manual, and then removed the cross member.
        With the engine supported this way it was easy to remove the bell housing. The exhaust may have to be removed for clearance.


        • #5
          As I proceed : I have drained the trans and converter, all linkages, cables wires disconnected. Driveshaft disconnected and moved. Started removing batwing support bolts. Braced the engine. I was looking at the bell housing for later removal, it appears that the previous owner did not bolt it in the top 4 bolts. I do not see or feel any heads, just a hole. Also when I reassemble can the upper bell bolts be put in without removing the large transmission access plate? The jute and carpet where rubber cemented down over it.
          I removed the bell from the DG250M. The previous owner also welded the exhaust to a bracket that is welded to the bell housing. Makes it a bit tougher to move the exhaust. It is all welded pipes to one piece.
          51 Studebaker Starlight State Commander Coupe
          53 Studebaker Starlight Regal Commander Coupe
          62 Volvo PV544 Sport