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What’s the booster pushrod diameter for 1964 V8 Daytona with split system power drum brakes?

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  • Brakes: What’s the booster pushrod diameter for 1964 V8 Daytona with split system power drum brakes?

    I just bought a new master cylinder (1562411) from a Studebaker-specific parts vendor, and it has what might be described as a washer with four internal teeth partially blocking the hole that the pushrod should fit into. My booster’s pushrod, which is adjusted with a 5/16" wrench, won’t fit through it. I’m wondering if I may have an aftermarket booster with a larger than standard pushrod. Does anyone know what size wrench is needed to adjust the pushrod on the stock part? Thanks.

  • #2
    What year is your car? Is it a '64, or an earlier year? The '64 does take a different pushrod for than the earlier split brake system master cylinders.
    Last edited by r1lark; 05-18-2020, 08:56 AM.
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at:


    • #3
      It is EXTREMELY rare to have a Drum System with a Power Booster on a '63 to 66 Lark Type, since Power Discs were available it must have been a very low sales Option.

      So that makes it a LOT harder for us to answer that Rod Question.
      I wonder if you have the Booster for Disc Brakes that someone unknowingly installed!
      Click image for larger version  Name:	Wht 64 Daytona Wagonaire BellsA.jpg Views:	0 Size:	130.8 KB ID:	1836458 Click image for larger version

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      Here is the WRONG one, it is tapered on the Front end.
      Last edited by StudeRich; 05-18-2020, 10:01 AM.
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner


      • #4
        Typically there are instructions packed with the replacement master cylinder. The part with the internal fingers to grab the pushrod is used on standard brake cars. With power brake installations, they say to remove and discard this part. Did you get an instruction sheet with the master cylinder?
        Yes, a power drum setup is somewhat unusual on ‘63 and later Lark types, but I have had a few over the years. Very nice to drive - extremely good pedal feel.


        • #5
          r1lark - It’s a ’64.

          StudeRich - My booster is much flatter than that, and it doesn’t taper as much. It looks about like what’s in the parts book.

          Click image for larger version  Name:	Screen Shot 2020-05-18 at 3.20.12 PM.png Views:	36 Size:	32.1 KB ID:	1836479

          Studebakercenteroforegon - I didn’t receive any instructions. I was thinking I would probably just remove the part and install the master cylinder, as you mentioned, but I wanted to run it by the experts first.

          Thanks, everyone!
          Last edited by roman.powell; 05-19-2020, 03:16 PM.


          • #6
            Here is a picture of the 1962- 1964 power brake booster. I have one in my non disc brake 64 Cruiser. Sorry I don’t know the answer to your question.

            Attached Files


            • #7
              My booster looks basically like yours, Bullet, but my master cylinder attaches with two bolts, rather than four.


              • #8
                I just double checked mine and I too have a two bolt power booster to hold the MC on with. The picture I shared in the post above must be for. 62.



                • #9
                  The pushrod fits into the MC but must be adjusted so that there is sufficient travel of the booster w/o activating the brakes-otherwise your brakes may be on and activated and drag. This needs to occur esp. if the MC or booster were not a matched set. I may have that backwards as the rod from the booster may need to be extended or backed off. I had a conversation with "Booster Dewey" who did the booster on my '64 SR wagon. I had an NOS MC and found a booster and brackets to install in my car. I also needed the pushrod that bolts to the brake pedal which is stamped LD 1 and has an eccentric. Your pedal should also have 2 holes and I believe I used the bottom hole. My wagon is stick with OD and I wanted to have the clutch and brake pedals the same distance from the floor/toe board. I can email pics if possible. Even if you have auto you may need to get the pedal up from the floor.
                  Rob in PA.


                  • #10
                    I removed what I think is called a rod retainer (photo attached) from the master cylinder, and then I adjusted the length of the booster’s pushrod following Andy Mechanic’s procedure, starting at 31:50 in this video.

                    Click image for larger version

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                    It’s difficult to see, but I think my brake pedal has two holes, too, and the bottom one is currently being used. The other looks to be only about an inch higher.