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  • Frame / Springs: 53 Starliner chassis swap

    Will a 53 Starliner body swap to a 57 Silver Hawk chassis? Thanks
    Last edited by tim333; 05-16-2020, 02:28 AM.

  • #2
    Yes, but it may be going backwards in frame thickness and definitely not as good brakes.

    jack vines
    PackardV8

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    • #3
      Click image for larger version

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      "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

      Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      '33 Rockne 10,
      '51 Commander Starlight,
      '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
      '56 Sky Hawk

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      • #4
        If you enlarge and closely examine those Great Blueprints, I am sure you will find the differences in the 'Outriggers" for the "K" Body "B" Pillar etc. that have to be modified to fit a "C" Body.

        1962 is when the K Bodies went to 11 Ga. frames, from I believe 13 prior on C and K.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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        • #5
          I have a K body Starliner....

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          • #6
            So you want to put the '57 chassis under the '53 or vise versa?

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            • #7
              57 under the 53.

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              • #8
                Post #1 pretty much says that the Starliner "K" Chassis is going to the '57 Silver Hawk "C" Body.

                But it is probably reverse, as it makes more sense.
                The Frames CAN be swapped either way, but as I said in Post #4, NOT without changes and unless one is ruined there is no advantage.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                • #9
                  Tim— as you probably know, Lark convertibles, Avantis, and many Wagonaires had a large “X” member added to the frame to stiffen them. Why not consider getting one of those “X” members, and having it installed into your frame? I believe I could do it, but I’m a long way from you. I bet a decent fab-shop could weld it in for you, without removing your body or any of that craziness. That would stiffen and strengthen your ‘53 a LOT, for reasonable money I would think. Your thoughts? —Kenny
                  1950 Commander Land Cruiser
                  1951 Champion Business Coupe
                  1951 Commander Starlight
                  1952 Champion 2Dr. Sedan
                  1953 Champion Starlight
                  1953 Commander Starliner
                  1953 2R5
                  1956 Golden Hawk Jet Streak
                  1957 Silver Hawk
                  1957 3E5 Pick-Up
                  1959 Silver Hawk
                  1961 Hawk
                  1962 Cruiser 4 speed
                  1963 Daytona Convertible
                  1964 Daytona R2 4 speed
                  1965 Cruiser
                  1970 Avanti

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                  • #10
                    Does your car have the batwing crossmember? This helps with body stiffness too. A K member might be easier to fabricate than an X member. At one time I did some FEA
                    analysis and found that increasing the plate thickness on the bottom of the frame would add a little stiffness.

                    The 1953 design can almost be thought of as a semi-unibody. The frame and body structure are a team, differing from earlier vehicles and trucks where the frame is the main
                    structure and the body just an enclosure. If there is significant rust, it will be as flexible as a cat.


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                    • #11
                      I see the org post was edited, Just do it.
                      I used a 58 Hawk frame under my 53, the only difference I noted were the C pillar mount was a little different, I didn't realize it until I had it all together (and painted), I had to weld a piece to the hawk frame to bolt the body too (Hope my memory is correct) and the later trunk body mount (right behind the rear seat...not at the very end of the frame) was only in the center, I drilled holes in the frame to bolt it to both sides.

                      Good luck and be sure to check for the crack that is on the bottom of the frame near the spring pocket. Easy to run new brake lines etc with the body off too

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