Fiberglass ideas for an Avanti

[studegary]

quote:Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK

That's be a good trick, as I took those pic's a couple three years before I bought the yellow truck
But, it is a good color on an Avanti[]
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by studegary

I guess that Jeff took the pictures because the Avanti is yellow <G>.
I do like the smooth look of the rear.

Not "a good trick", it just shows that you have been thinking yellow for a long time <G>.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

[grobb284]

Gary and Nate,

I'm leaning towards trying to work out something in a compromise like you two are speaking of. May have to trim the ears of the frame a bit, and exercise some caution in removing the body. May have to raise (cut off) the lower edge of the fiberglass valence a little.

It (the frame) really can't be moved forward much as it is lifted, as the frame "kick up" just clears the fiberglass rise just under the gas tank, back of rear seat. There is a parallel angle there of the two items, so it does help some, but not much as the body is raised. I'm thinking 63 degree angle.

The body will be on and off a number of times yet. Just when you think it will be the last time, something else comes up.

I really like the idea of a smooth look, and is similar to some of the early Avanti concept sketches. Thanks for your help.

Jeff:
Now we're talking.


Something similar to this, but without the frenched license plate.
Perhaps smoothed where it is frenched, with no provision for a license plate. Use a "Show-N-Go" retractable plate. (Manual of course, too much of a CASO to buy the electric)

Although this is a tubbed race car, several items would be the same from the rear:
No side mount holes or protrusions in the quarters for the rear bumper.
No shackle mount boxes.
No vertical bumper guards.

I may still have a rear horizontal bumper, but perhaps smaller, and not have it extend forward around the quarters.

Thanks for the photos, Jeff. By the way, I looked at the photos of the front of this drag car, some similarities there also. Your pictures have helped.


Tom: Your right on the money. With a conventional frame, the leading edges of the X-member would be in the 3's range in inches probably.

I've tried to keep everything in the confines of the 4" tubing width, including the exhaust. Only the transmission sump and the oil pan may be lower.

Should have good ground clearance, and have a little better than 2" additional suspension travel up from ride height. To do this on a stock frame, you might almost be on the front suspension stops.

[grobb284]

What is the best way to get from here:


To something similar here:


I'm thinking using a dense plastic foam mounted on the inside of the areas marked in red. Filling/sanding down quickly to match the contour. Tape seran wrap over it, including a larger area. Lay fine fiberglass cloth over it, and use epoxy resin (little shrinkage) to make a female mold. Tape lines to body outlining the mold for proper postioning for reattachment.

Leave seran wrap on after it cures, and attach female mold to body using slicon adhesive. Lay up fine mesh cloth first (inner most from the inside)with subsequent heavier layers of cloth and resin (again epoxy).

Is this the proper procedure, or is there a better way? Will the epoxy resin provide sufficient adhesion?

Also since I'm also cutting out the protrusion of the license mount (blue) and making it smooth with the rest of the pan (not frenched like the yellow Avanti), would it be better to cut out the whole section between the two holes where the shackle boxes were, and make a female mold for the whole area, rather than 3 voids?

Needing a fiberglass expert to lead me through this.

[jlmccuan]

Very good help and tutorials at

http://www.fiberglassforums.com/index.php



Jim

_________1966 Avanti II RQA 0088______________________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152_______________Rabid Snail Racing

[DEEPNHOCK]

Although purpose built, the yellow Avanti is a 100% sreet car.
I saw it (sans back window) in Ocala Florida right after it drove down from Connecticut (after having driven it to Connecticut from Cleveland).
After the SDC Florida gang saved his interior by replacing his blown our rear window in a couple of hours, he continued on the Hot Rod Power Tour and finished, becoming a member of 'The Long Haul Gang'.
So, if the yellow Avanti can tool around the country with impunity, think what you'll be able to do...
Driving in salt, sleet, and slush...laughing hysterically all the way![}]
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by grobb284
<snip>
Although this is a tubbed race car, several items would be the same from the rear:
<snip>

[DEEPNHOCK]

Jim Hall was way ahead of his time..
Think of it.....
The 'original fart pipes'[:0][}][]
(JLO powered no less!)
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by grobb284
Now here is a diffuser(Chapparal):

[grobb284]

Jim,
Thanks for the heads up on the fiberglass information.

Jeff: My error, thanks for correcting it. I went to webshots after you posted earlier, and gleaned quite a bit from those photos of the yellow Avanti. A lot of nice touches.

Also impressed with the phantom vehicles.

[grobb284]

Jim:

You won't believe it, but one of the recent instructive posts with pictures on the fiberglass forum you linked was:

"NACA duct hood induction for RX-7"


Can someone Photshop a NACA duct on the assymetrical hood bulge near the front, so I can get this out of my system?[8D]

[N8N]

you do realize that the bulge is on the driver's side and the supercharger inlet is on the passenger side, right (I know, someone had to point out the obvious)

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[grobb284]

quote:you do realize that the bulge is on the driver's side and the supercharger inlet is on the passenger side, right (I know, someone had to point out the obvious)

Yes, it was as you said in 1963 and '64. [8D]
Not necessarily now.

[grobb284]

This was the last supercharged motor I built a number of years ago, though I won't be building it like this now.