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  • Engine: Engine Start

    Hello Everyone,
    I'm still waiting on some parts before I install the front clip, so thought I might fire up the engine & set the timing.
    The engine is a free flow 289 with standard transmission, it has been re-built & bench started about 6 months a go, is full of oil etc, I have put the initial 2-3 litres of oil
    in the transmission, but torque converter is empty, so will need to top up once running. I've also installed a MSd distributor which is set to TDC on No.1 & have a timing scale
    on the flywheel to set with the light once running. I have no wiring in place, so was wanting some advice on starting & stopping the engine without the ignition wiring,
    also, I haven't any exhaust fitted, just standard manifolds (is this OK).

    regards, Cus
    sigpic

  • #2
    Ok, have starter working & have wound over quite a few times with a squirt of ATF down the pots, have oil pressure,
    so was going to prime a bit down the carb tomorrow. Do i run a positive wire direct from the battery to the + on the coil?
    & touch on the battery + same time as starter solenoid wire.

    regards, Cus
    sigpic

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Cus63 View Post
      Hello Everyone,
      I'm still waiting on some parts before I install the front clip, so thought I might fire up the engine & set the timing.
      The engine is a free flow 289 with standard transmission, it has been re-built & bench started about 6 months a go, is full of oil etc, I have put the initial 2-3 litres of oil (If that is around 4-5 Qts. of Ford Type "F" ATF or alternate: Dexron/Mercon, it's OK)
      in the transmission, but torque converter is empty, so will need to top up once running. I've also installed a MSd distributor which is set to TDC on No.1 & have a timing scale Check that BOTH Valves ARE closed on #1, and #1 Piston is at the Top.

      You could set it at the "Run Position" of 4 degrees Advance which is ON the mark next to the Letter "I" of "IGN" and then check it on start up with a Timing light. (That would be on the Vibration Damper (USA Term), NOT the Flywheel)

      on the flywheel to set with the light once running. I have no wiring in place, so was wanting some advice on starting & stopping the engine without the ignition wiring, OK, to do that you need the Solenoid Large Forward Term Cable to 12 Volt (Group 24) Batt. (+) Post, and Large Rear Term with a Starter Cable to Starter connected.

      You need a wire from the + Batt. Terminal to a Ceramic Resister Block, I think 0.06 OHM (or Standard), then to the + Term. of the Coil, I would use a Wire with Alligator Clips for Quick disconnect to shut it Down.
      The (-) Neg. Coil Term. of course gets a small 18 or 16 Gauge wire to the Distributor.

      Then to Start it, a short Alligator Clip Wire you Touch from the "HOT" Batt. Term on Solenoid to the Small "S" Term. of Solenoid momentarily until it starts.


      also, I haven't any exhaust fitted, just standard manifolds (is this OK). It is best to put (2) 1 or 2 Ft. long Head Pipes on if possible, but a short low speed, NOT overheated Run without, should not hurt.

      regards, Cus
      I had to add some words here to make this Post, good luck starting it.

      OH, IMPORTANT: this is the correct Factory Temporary Wiring, you have to modify it if necessary per your Electronic ? Ignition Kit instructions, not sure HOW this Aftermarket Dist. works or what Type it is.

      When you wire it Permanently, you would use the small "I" Term on the Solenoid to run directly to the Coil (+) Term WITH the wire to the Resister and Power but of course re-route it to the "IGN" Terminal of the Ignition Switch, for a "Hotter" Starting Voltage.
      Last edited by StudeRich; 04-25-2020, 12:20 AM.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

      Comment


      • #4
        A litre and a US quart are almost the same thing, just a cap full difference a US quart is .946 litres. So just ad a cap full and you will have a litre.

        Comment


        • #5
          Cus, lots of good advice. if you have a reground cam and new or reground lifters you need to run the new motor at 2,000 rpm for 20 minutes to allow the new parts to wear in and establish a proper wear pattern. on projects like this i use a small instrument panel with ignition switch oil pressure and temp gauges mounted where convenient. it also has the starter solenoid mounted to the back. battery in box on floor,pass side. factory wires to coil. i like manifold pipes with mufflers,especially an R-1 build. after 20 min run slow to factory idle, cool down a bit, shut down and adjust valves air out shop. Luck Doofus

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          • #6
            Thanks for that great advice, Rich, I have an electronic ignition distributor, I’m pretty sure I have to by pass the resistor, do I put a hot + wire direct to the coil.?
            sigpic

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Cus63 View Post
              Hello Everyone,
              ...I have no wiring in place, so was wanting some advice on starting & stopping the engine without the ignition wiring...
              regards, Cus
              When I run any engine without the factory wiring connected, I always use some kind of "switch" as an "ON/OFF" function to take the place of the traditional keyed ignition switch. Something as simple as a toggle switch or even a spare generic keyed ignition switch mounted where it is convenient to get to if a problem occurs and you need to shut down quickly. On a project job site, I do my best to avoid electrical sparks where there could possibly be a fuel leak or gasoline stored nearby.

              For what you are doing, you could wire a simple circuit through a switch to power the coil, and use a common remote starter (available at most parts stores) to activate the starter solenoid. This assumes that, even with electronic ignition, the required connections are no more complex than a standard distributor with points. The main point is to avoid having to make crude unprotected connections with such things as alligator clips and avoid short circuits and sparks. I think "doofus" (post #5) makes a great suggestion of a temporary instrument panel that could give you great information as you run and make adjustments.

              John Clary
              Greer, SC

              SDC member since 1975

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              • #8
                Thanks again everyone for the great advice, special thanks to Rich for the very detailed reply. Engine fired up pretty much straight away, had a huge spark. I just primed with some 2 stroke to see if I was in the ball park with the timing. I’m getting the exhaust fitted this week, so I’ll wait till that’s done & fit the radiator etc. & get set for prolonged running to set the timing. Made up a little control box with a toggle for the ignition & a push button for the starter, I have an oil pressure guage which I’ll connect as well, regards, Cus
                sigpic

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                • #9
                  Hi Cus
                  I am following your posts with interest, car looks great!
                  Could you post up some photos of your control box? Ill be attempting to start my freshly built 259 soon.
                  Also do you trailer the chassis with motor to get the exhaust measured/fitted? I want to put a duel system on my 55 coupe project, i am about to mount the motor on the chassis.
                  Cheers
                  Stu

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Waratah View Post
                    Hi Cus
                    I am following your posts with interest, car looks great!
                    Could you post up some photos of your control box? Ill be attempting to start my freshly built 259 soon.
                    Also do you trailer the chassis with motor to get the exhaust measured/fitted? I want to put a duel system on my 55 coupe project, i am about to mount the motor on the chassis.
                    Cheers
                    Stu
                    Hello Stu,
                    I used to live in Melbourne some 30 years a go. The control box sounds pretty high tech, but is an old lunch box with holes in the lid for the switches & holes in the bottom
                    for the wires to feed in. I will be using a trailer to transport to the exhaust shop. I've temporarily fitted the rear bar etc. so they can get the correct length out the back. Would be keen to see some pics of the 55 coupe.

                    regards, Cus
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks for the info Cus. I'm not sure how to share a link but i have posted some pics in a new topic in members pictures
                      Cheers
                      Stu

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                      • #12
                        Hello All,
                        I have the engine running well, filled the trans & car is selecting all gears. I'm driving the car up & back the driveway.
                        With the temporary ignition wiring, should I have some fuses in place on the positive to the coil, just a bit worried
                        damaging the MSD. regards, Cus
                        sigpic

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                        • #13
                          Was a bit of a stupid question, I'll put a 30 amp inline fuse on the + to the coil
                          sigpic

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