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Installing a dual M/C (Lark)

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  • Brakes: Installing a dual M/C (Lark)

    Here is a really simple upgrade to a dual M/C on a Lark. It may work on other models as well. Disconnect the brake line and the brake light switch from the M/C. Remove the original single pot (4 bolts). Reinstall the upper two bolts and tighten. Acquire a Dorman 56193 dual M/C. This unit only requires the bottom two bolts for mounting, but they should be about ½” longer. Looking in the end of the M/C where the push rod goes in, you will see 4 teeth, probably meant as a guide. I used my handy grinder to remove these teeth as they interfere with the original push rod. Clean thoroughly. Bench bleed the M/C and install the rubber boot. Insert the M/C through the firewall guiding the push rod into the M/C. There is some resistance to the boot passing through the firewall, but it will fit. There is a stop bolt under the steering column with a pair of adjustment nuts. Back this bolt off as short as possible. It can be adjusted later. If you are converting to manual front disk brakes, you will have to install a 10 lb. residual valve in the front line. Remove the original line from the old M/C to the distribution block. Replace this line with two 15” lines with the residual valve between them. The fitting on the M/C end will require a ½-20 fitting while all the other fittings will be 3/8”. You can get 3/16 brake lines with ½” fitting on one end and 3/8” fitting on the other. Remove the line from the distribution block that goes to the rear brakes and install a plug. Install a coupler on the rear line and you can reuse the line previously removed from the original pot. You will require a ½ male to a 3/8 female flared adapter in the new M/C. Remember, the rear port goes to the front brakes and the front port goes to the rear brakes. There is an NPT fitting in the bottom of the M/C to receive the brake light switch. A 3 lb. residual valve is used in many drum brake setups but since the M/C is located higher than the brakes, it is usually not necessary. Bleed your brakes however you do, Motive Power Bleeder, Vacuum pump or wife on brake pedal. When you are finished, check the stop screw that there is slight play between the pedal and the screw head. I am sure others have used different Masters, but I like this one. It has a single large lid that lets you power bleed and it is inexpensive and readily available.

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  • #2
    Wish my 59 Lark didnt have the MC under the floor...

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    • #3
      I got a dual master cylinder set up from Jim Turner for my 59 lark.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by DieselJim View Post
        I got a dual master cylinder set up from Jim Turner for my 59 lark.
        Yes, thanks. I did too. But it was a pain installing that. The firewall mount seems so much better to me for may reasons.

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        • #5
          Nice presentation. Thanks!

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          • #6
            Something to consider if your car is a four speed with hill holder.
            My car "had' a hill holder. When I ash canned the single master, I lost the ability to have the hill holder with the new dual master cyl. I live with it, but hate to slip the clutch on hills, also paranoid of rolling back to fools who are up my arz at stop lights on incline roads.

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            • #7
              Put the hill holder back in. Just plumb it into the rear brake line.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Hawklover View Post
                Something to consider if your car is a four speed with hill holder.
                My car "had' a hill holder. When I ash canned the single master, I lost the ability to have the hill holder with the new dual master cyl. I live with it, but hate to slip the clutch on hills, also paranoid of rolling back to fools who are up my arz at stop lights on incline roads.
                Installing a Hurst Line Lock is a relatively simple and inexpensive option in lieu of a hill holder. Back in the day, on the hills of Pittsburgh, we learned to use the hand brake on vehicles that didn't have a hill holder. That would be the CASO solution here.
                Jim Bradley
                Lake Monticello, VA
                '78 Avanti II
                sigpic

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by bensherb View Post
                  Put the hill holder back in. Just plumb it into the rear brake line.
                  Candidly I am done with Effing with it......will just keep it that way till the new owner takes possession:-)

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Rerun View Post

                    Installing a Hurst Line Lock is a relatively simple and inexpensive option in lieu of a hill holder. Back in the day, on the hills of Pittsburgh, we learned to use the hand brake on vehicles that didn't have a hill holder. That would be the CASO solution here.
                    LOL.....I do employ that methodology!

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