59 Lark: Rear brakes dont look right.

[JoeHall]

Can someone confirm if I need to change out that grease in the image above?

1) Is that white lithium?
2) If it is white lithium, I thought that wasnt recommended for wheel bearings. Can someone please confirm?

Thanks

I would pull the axle, wipe and clean as much of that grease (whatever it is) off as possible, then repack with wheel bearing grease. Later, when installing the hub, insure the hub inner surface and mating axle outer surface are clean and dry.

[creegster]

Can someone confirm if I need to change out that grease in the image above?

1) Is that white lithium?
2) If it is white lithium, I thought that wasnt recommended for wheel bearings. Can someone please confirm?

Thanks

[creegster]

Uhhhh, is that white lithium in the wheel bearing? Is that right?

[gordr]

OK, I can see the arrow in the new picture, faintly, and it is pointing the right way.

[creegster]

Got it- Will do, thanks for the great advice!

[JoeHall]

Thanks JoeHall.
So when I started disassembly, the drum came off without the hub attached with no effort. The drum was loose (ie, not attached to the hub). Im guessing it was never attached to begin with.

It appears to be swaged on the drivers side, just not on this side. I looked through previous posts, and have familiarized myself with swaging (had not hear of it before).

I guess I need to find a shop that is open on Monday and have them swage this drum. I really dont want to venture out right now, do I have any other options? (I want to do it right of course, so it may be my only choice)

Thanks

Nope, please re-read my post, you do NOT need to re-swage the drum onto the hub. But it is preferable to re-install it in the same position it was in, in other words, clocked so the same drum holes and studs match. But a PO has likely lost the original clocking anyway. So just find th most concentric location by trial and error: slip the drum onto the studs, tighten the brake shoes to a point of slight drag, then rotate the drum slowly and feel for high & low spots; remove and shift the drum one slot at a time till you feel the least high & low spots, and that will be the best position for the drum & hub as a mashed set. Also, see posts # 2 and five at this link, which explain it more:Confirm procedure for removing and replacing lug nuts

[creegster]

Thanks JoeHall.
So when I started disassembly, the drum came off without the hub attached with no effort. The drum was loose (ie, not attached to the hub). Im guessing it was never attached to begin with.

It appears to be swaged on the drivers side, just not on this side. I looked through previous posts, and have familiarized myself with swaging (had not hear of it before).

I guess I need to find a shop that is open on Monday and have them swage this drum. I really dont want to venture out right now, do I have any other options? (I want to do it right of course, so it may be my only choice)

Thanks

[JoeHall]

To install the hub, I place the key in the hub's slot with beveled end facing the axle a lot, I then slip the hub on while keeping my thumb on the end of the key so it does not slip too far outboard. No problem is it does. slip a bit, as it easily taps down flush with the hub where it belongs. Prior to reassembly, insure the axle and hub mating surfaces are clean a d dry. Once the hub is slipped on, install the nut and washer and tighten it as tight as possible by hand in order to snug it in place, usually 5-10 foot pounds you'll get because nothing to hold the hub in place.
I see you have removed the drums, but since the swages look uncut, I am guessing you warped the drums during removal? I use a keyhole saw to first cut the swage, so the hub just falls out. But first, mark one of the hub and drum holes clearly with something to scar it so it will not be lost later. I do that because the drum, if re-used, will be best centered f re-keyed to its original position on the hub. If you are using new repro hubs, they are much thicker (at least the ones I have seen), so it's preferable to install new studs, with longer shoulder for the thicker hubs to rest/center on.
If you search the archives here you can find lots more info on swaged hubs, and how to cut them, replace them, etc., including sizes and part numbers.

NOTE: It is NOT necessary to re-swage the drums, whether re-using OEMs or installing repros, nor is it even desired.

[creegster]

I checked, and I had it on the right way, as JoeHall pointed out. But better to check than assume it was correct.

------------

On to my next question: I am getting ready to put the hub back on, and wanted to know: what is the best way to do that? The manual doesnt really explain the details of how that is done. It seems like I need to get a piece of pipe, place that over the axle, and hammer away on the hub. I also have the hub puller. Could I just re-install the hub puller and hammer on that?

What is the correct depth for that to be installed correctly?

And what about the key? Do I insert that after I have the hub at the right depth to lock it in place? (also hammering in place)

Thanks everyone

[JoeHall]

Assuming that all the pics are of the right rear brake (seeing as the parking brake lever is attached to the rear shoe), it appears to me that the anchor block may be placed wrong. That is the wedge-shaped piece on the stud to which the return springs are hooked. The anchor blocks are stamped with an arrow that is supposed to agree with the forward rotation of the brake drum. This one seems to be pointing backwards, but I may be mistaken. Worth a check, though.

I use anti-seize compound on all metal-to-metal contacts in the brakes. On the shoe "tables" on the backing plate, on the pivot points in the parking brake linkage, on the adjuster sleeve, on the stud where the anchor goes, and even in the notches on the tips of the push rods. Never had an issue.

The arrow always points toward the curved edge of the block, so this one appears correct. But I notice the forward shoe is not resting on that block, instead it is resting on the square edged base of the backing plate. Usually, the hub will not go on till the shoe pops itself back onto the block where it belongs. Odds are, it's OK, but it never hurts to check. Especially with so much time on hand nowadays for most of us.

[creegster]

Thanks for the feedback everyone- I will check that anchor block. Not looking forward to taking that all apart again if its wrong, but its a learning experience. I will get it right, thanks to everyone here. Better to fix that than have brakes that dont function properly.

[Ross]

Believe Gordr is correct. Arrow on the anchor block must face forward / in the direction of drum rotation.

[gordr]

Assuming that all the pics are of the right rear brake (seeing as the parking brake lever is attached to the rear shoe), it appears to me that the anchor block may be placed wrong. That is the wedge-shaped piece on the stud to which the return springs are hooked. The anchor blocks are stamped with an arrow that is supposed to agree with the forward rotation of the brake drum. This one seems to be pointing backwards, but I may be mistaken. Worth a check, though.

I use anti-seize compound on all metal-to-metal contacts in the brakes. On the shoe "tables" on the backing plate, on the pivot points in the parking brake linkage, on the adjuster sleeve, on the stud where the anchor goes, and even in the notches on the tips of the push rods. Never had an issue.

[StudeRich]

The Shoes were not centered on the "wear" Pads of the Backing Plate that you were supposed to lightly Lubricate with Lubriplate high temp White grease.

https://buyoil.com/lubriplate-l0043-...SABEgKx4PD_BwE

[creegster]

Yup, that looks like it fixed it. Thanks!