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T86E-1 Rebuild - Parts to be replaced

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  • KFC
    replied
    Originally posted by jackb View Post
    you have a T86 behind the Champion engine (2R5/10) ? Or do you have the Commander engine (2R6 / 12) ?
    Hi Jack,

    It's behind the Champion 2R5.

    I have another T86 sitting behind a Commander for the future as mentioned in my last post.

    Cheers,
    Kelly

    Leave a comment:


  • KFC
    replied
    Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
    "Seems to be functioning well" is kinda vague. Is it grinding at all when shifted into 2nd or 3rd gear? Any clicks, chatters or whining in any gear under any condition? Any leaks other than around the shift fork shafts? Have you checked tightness of the large bolts holding the cases together? Does the OD function as designed?

    If all the above is well, I would not try to fix it since it ain't broke. I'd first try using a, 'pick' to remove the shift fork seals and replace them. If not possible, it would have to be leaking pretty bad before I'd disassemble the T86 just to replace those seals. I would drain the oil and replace it with Redline MT-90, as there is no better oil you can use for smooth shifts, even when cold.

    OTOH, if any of the above is not well, I'd first pop the cover and look carefully at all gear teeth, and the, 'dog houses' on the brass synchronizer rings. If the dog house points are rounded at all, I'd plan on replacing them, and any gears that are broken, chipped or rounded, to include the cluster gear. I'd also locate a basic rebuild kit before disassembly, that includes needle bearings, gaskets and seals. Any parts needed, I'd procure before disassembly. While chasing parts down and waiting on them to arrive, I'd go ahead and make a dummy shaft for the cluster gear, to make installation of the needle bearings a much easier chore. The suggested thick grease to hold them in place is a real PITA. While disassembled, inspect the surfaces the needle bearings ride on for brindling, and replace shafts/gears as needed.
    Hi Joe,

    Thanks for the response and hope you are well during this strange time in the world..

    Apologies and I do understand that it was a vague statement, that mainly because I've not been able to drive it much. Today I was able to test drive it a bit more and the transmission really doesn't seem to have any other issues, so I have to agree with you that it's not broken so not worth the effort for a couple minor leaks. I think I got ahead of myself as I am doing a body off restoration (which I have never done before) so had in my head that I would just rebuild everything, now realizing this is not required.

    This transmission does not have the OD with it, I also have a T86E-1A (the one I originally posted about was a "1") that I have just pulled from my 52 2R6 with the OD. Can you tell me the difference between a 1 and 1A?? Would the OD (I don't have a specific model number) be interchangeable between the two?

    My intention is to restore as is with the 169 and no OD, then rebuild and swap for the 246 with OD in the future.

    Cheers,
    Kelly

    Leave a comment:


  • jackb
    replied
    you have a T86 behind the Champion engine (2R5/10) ? Or do you have the Commander engine (2R6 / 12) ?

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeHall
    replied
    "Seems to be functioning well" is kinda vague. Is it grinding at all when shifted into 2nd or 3rd gear? Any clicks, chatters or whining in any gear under any condition? Any leaks other than around the shift fork shafts? Have you checked tightness of the large bolts holding the cases together? Does the OD function as designed?

    If all the above is well, I would not try to fix it since it ain't broke. I'd first try using a, 'pick' to remove the shift fork seals and replace them. If not possible, it would have to be leaking pretty bad before I'd disassemble the T86 just to replace those seals. I would drain the oil and replace it with Redline MT-90, as there is no better oil you can use for smooth shifts, even when cold.

    OTOH, if any of the above is not well, I'd first pop the cover and look carefully at all gear teeth, and the, 'dog houses' on the brass synchronizer rings. If the dog house points are rounded at all, I'd plan on replacing them, and any gears that are broken, chipped or rounded, to include the cluster gear. I'd also locate a basic rebuild kit before disassembly, that includes needle bearings, gaskets and seals. Any parts needed, I'd procure before disassembly. While chasing parts down and waiting on them to arrive, I'd go ahead and make a dummy shaft for the cluster gear, to make installation of the needle bearings a much easier chore. The suggested thick grease to hold them in place is a real PITA. While disassembled, inspect the surfaces the needle bearings ride on for brindling, and replace shafts/gears as needed.
    Last edited by JoeHall; 04-03-2020, 07:17 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • r1lark
    replied
    Kelly, sent you a Private Message (PM) thru this forum.

    Leave a comment:


  • altair
    replied
    The only things I would routinely replace would be the brass syncro rings and the needle bearings in the cluster, they may not be necessary but if you have it apart why not.

    Leave a comment:


  • T86E-1 Rebuild - Parts to be replaced

    Hi all,

    I have a 3spd T86E-1 in my 1953 2R5 that has a few leaks from the shift lever oil seals. As I'm currently doing a lot of work on the truck I am debating on taking the transmission apart to replace these seals. Seems to be functioning well but it's been used very little in the last 20 years and I have only just returned the truck to a "back road" driving state, so not a lot of test drives have been done.

    If I did decide to rebuild it are there other recommended or "must replace" parts that should be swapped out while I'm in there? I've not seen any specific rebuild kits for these transmissions?

    Any advice is appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Kelly

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