Engine: V-8 Engine valve seal job

[j.byrd]

V-8 valve job on my 55 coupe : Progress is going pretty slow, but I'm old and cranky and my wife is working at home (honey do immediatelys). I want to verify what I think with you fellows, so here goes. ( and yes, I do have all the manuals, I'm also a book and magazine nut )

1: The engine number is V556671 with flat top pistons which leads me to believe it is a 61 or 62 259 block with a 289 "set" in it...pistons, rods, crank, etc.

2: Got the rocker arm off with very little trouble compared to the fan, radiator, and shroud. I am considering making that shroud a 2 piece affair for future ease.

3: Why won't the engine turn backwards ? Is it because it has timing gears instead of a chain ? The big nut turnes REAL easy backward after banging the fold-over tab off it. It should be 130 to 140 ft. lbs. worth of tight, but no way ! Think it'll be OK when I torque it properly after my job ?

4: Anything special about these heads ? You can see the numbers in one photo. Hope they are normal, special means I have to brag about them, ha !

5: As you can see, I have the proper little valve spring tool, some rope, and not shown is my compressor and the air fitting to do it both or either way.

6: This car smokes fairly bad after coming up our hill, and fairly noticeably other times. One side smokes a bit more than the other, I'm just starting on this side 1st because I don't have to move our motor scooters in and out for easy access, ha !

7: I'll check over all the oil holes and misc. stuff, but the old thing was running SO GOOD for the last 3 years that I just hated to tear it down. Isolation "suggestions" from the Gov. solved that problem, no need to drive it for a while.

Thanks ahead of time for any comments, warnings, threats or arguments, I love my old baby and want to do these seals to see if that is my main problem, It has around 140 psi compression I think, tested that a couple of years ago, but if this clears up the major amount of smoking, Jeff Rice will have to get out his magic aluminum manifold whittling devise for me ! And, I am NOT going to leave the engine these colors...my choice is still undecided, but NOT black.....I like to see my oil drip areas, ha !

[64studeavanti]

259s had flat top pistons. "R(S)" or "JT(S) engines had them as well. Other 289s had dished pistons. They look to be 294 heads which are 62, 7.75:1 compression heads. I am not sure if the CR is for 289 or 259 engines.

[j.byrd]

OOPS ! Guess I didn't read this carefully enough. I just couldn't remember which was which, thanks . Also, the engine had 289 valve cover stickers on it when I got it, but I know we can put them on anything... An edit..... If I had looked on page 45 of my 55 shop manual, I'd have seen the pistons were flat tops, but didn't think to do that, duh....

https://forum.studebakerdriversclub....op-289-pistons

[PackardV8]

New valve stem seals are always worth the work.

FWIW, 140 PSI cold cranking compression is the low side of OK. If you have access to a leak-down test gauge, that would be instructive.

BTW, if it's flat top pistons cranking 140 PSI, there's slim-to-no-chance there is a 289" crankshaft under there. Most R1s crank about 180-190. That '55 most likely had a used '62 259" swapped in. Is it a full-flow or by-pass block?

jack vines

[j.byrd]

Thanks Jack ! It is a by-pass block, (no filter). Yep, 62 259 is what I found was probable too looking at engine number charts. Yes, I think our Avanti was 185s and plus, didn't remember that, just concentrating on this ole' gal. The only compression related gauges I have are just the regular type. Nothing especially for leak down. I think I have everything ready to start on the spring pulling, just kinda' building up to it in my weak old mind...it's been a long time, but I'm just treating this like a bicycle, once you've done it, you never forget, ha ! Keeping the shop manual close by "just in case tho'.

[Dwight FitzSimons]

The third photo shows the cylinder head casting date code: "3 16 R". That means the head was cast on March 16, 1962. So, at least, that head is a 1962 head. The casting date code for the block will be down behind the distributor. I don't recognize the casting number (on center exhaust port), which basically identifies the comp ratio. There should be a list of those on Bob Johnstone's Studebaker Resource website.
-Dwight

[j.byrd]

Thanks Dwight, I found early on that the block was a 62, but was unsure about the rest !

I just decided to look in my Dad's old "Motors Auto Repair Manual" that he had while at Studebaker and it shows the compression to be 8:25 for a two or 4 barrel 259 engine. It also shows the HP to be 180 for the 2 barrel with 260 ft. lbs. of torque, and 195 for the 4 barrel 259 with 265 ft. lbs of torque. . Neat to know that ! Now if I could just get this book to run out and change those seals for me, ha !

[64studeavanti]

In order to get 8.25 CR, I would think you would need either 555 or 570 heads and the thin head gasket.

[j.byrd]

64studeavanti, I'm just reporting what my old 1962 Motors Manual said. I have no way of knowing for sure .

[altair]

With all the work you are doing, lift that breather cap off and make sure it is clean.

[j.byrd]

Did that already altair, thanks ! Also checked the line with the added in pcv unit.

[fastjohnll]

j.byrd
You have a PM

[j.byrd]

Thanks fastjohn11, I can't figure out how to answer there, but will here. That is a kind offer, but am already going ahead with the cup type seals this go-around. Thanks again sir !

[j.byrd]

There is a fairly good chance my valve seals may have been a part of my smoking problem. The round black thing and small chips is the one (or remnants of) on the passenger side rear, you know, where all the valve train oil goes to "drain" ? The little plastic bottle my wife found while clipping bushes slips over the installed spring assy. just perfect and guides the WD-40 and/ or Brakleen I spray directly onto the top of the valve spring where the stubborn little keepers live to loosen them...after a gentle tap.. I'm using the "rope stop" to hold up the valves, and it is working great as always , but it takes several feet of it to fill the chamber with the piston down. These Studes have a l-o-n-g stroke ! The white nylon rope is still in the cylinder for the 2nd pic, and yes, the little electric wire to the fan you might have noticed is unplugged on purpose...so far, as it was a 6 volt, now the rest of the car is 12 volt. Don't need heat or defrost over here anyway thankfully.

[j.byrd]

I discovered another little known...or even cared about.... fact when I did the other valve and then pulled the rope out and measured it. It takes 13 feet, 8 inches of 1/4 inch nylon rope to fill a 259 V 8 cylinder with it on "bottom" dead center in this long stroke rascal, ha !