When I dismantled my 64 GT for restoration, there were U-shaped wooden spacers around the bolts that hold the seats down to the floor pan. Were these factory parts? Mine were in bad shape and I did not replace them. However my 5'3' wife can barely see out the windshield! I was wondering what others do to give good seat height and keep to originality. What is the proper way of mounting the bucket seats. Thanks.
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Bucket seat spacers on 64 GT
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I used pieces of 2 X 4 wood to raise the seats in my 51 starlight coupe. Drilled the wood blocks for bolts and used longer bolts than the factory used.RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible
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I found the same stuff on my '62 GT Hawk. What were they thinking (wood)?Howard - Los Angeles chapter SDC
'53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
'56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
'62 GT Hawk (4 speed, A/C, Power steering - running and DRIVING!)
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Pretty sure the wood blocks are in every GT. There is some variance in thicknesses, I believe to insure the seat does not tilt outward toward the door. The same type of wood is used under the dash to mount the handbrake on all Hawks. The wood is very hard, but not prone to cracking or chipping, probably something like oak. Also, every piece I have seen was painted black.
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My '62 has no widen blocks under the seat. The seats just bolt to the floor. Maybe that's why I've heard people complain about fitting under the steering wheel, and it's not an issue for me. I did raise the rear of the drivers seat about 3/16" by putting a hinge between the seat and floor. Why? You ask; because it makes it WAY easier to get under the dash by just removing the front bolts and tipping the seat back. Tip it back forward and drop in and tighten two bolts. No dinking around finding somplace to put the seat when removed or trying to get bolts back in.sigpic
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The wood blocks were a factory installation on all GT Hawks to "level" the outside of the seat with the inside mount. I don't remember where I saw this referenced, but I do remember it being in print somewhere. The part # is also somewhere (I don't have a parts manual with me), I'll look when I get out to my shop and report if I find it. Bill
P.S. as Joe stated, they were all painted black!
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Originally posted by Colgate Studebaker View PostThe wood blocks were a factory installation on all GT Hawks to "level" the outside of the seat with the inside mount. I don't remember where I saw this referenced, but I do remember it being in print somewhere. The part # is also somewhere (I don't have a parts manual with me), I'll look when I get out to my shop and report if I find it. Bill
P.S. as Joe stated, they were all painted black!
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Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
When I see a GT with the seat backs angled outward and, "kissing" the door/rear quarter top stainless strip, I immediately suspect that the wooden blocks are missing, but never mention it. LOLsigpic
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Originally posted by bensherb View Post
How far from the doors are your seats with the blocks? With no blocks, my seats are 1 1/2" from each door and perfectly paralell to one another at 9" apart. From what I see, blocks would only serve to raise the seats in my '62 GT.
Your seats sound just about perfect. Using yours for reference in the future, you will see what I am talking about.
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