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1962 GT Hawk V-8 Rebuilt Control Valve installation suggestions needed

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  • Steering: 1962 GT Hawk V-8 Rebuilt Control Valve installation suggestions needed

    Another person removed the control valve from my Hawk after rebuilding it didn't stop the leak. I sent it to Myers Studebaker in Ohio for them to rebuild it and it is now back in my living room. I would really like any suggestions regarding putting it back on. Is there an easier order in which to put it back on the car? What kind of fluid? What about air in the lines/hoses? Any suggestions for a correct reinstallation would be greatly appreciated-no matter how miniscule. The pitman arm and the long reach rod? are attached already. Thank you, Jim
    sigpicJimmie
    Orange County, Indiana
    1950 CHAMPION -ORANGE COUNTY, INDIANA

  • #2
    Installation of the pitman arm and reach rod are straight forward, and should be done first. Next install the pump, but it may be easier to start the pressure hose fitting into the pump fitting before mounting it. Use a belt that, when adjusted, positions the pump reservoir level, or nearly level. Look in the Shop and Parts Manuals to determine location of each hydraulic line. Fill the pump with your favorite PS fluid. The Shop Manual says to use ATF, but I have been using PS fluid for over 20 years now, and it makes the system operate smoother. No matter your choice, DO NOT use anything with a Stop Leak additive.

    Raise both front wheels off the ground, start the engine and let it idle. Do not be alarmed if the pump whines. Slowly turn the steering wheel back and forth, lock to lock. Stop and re-check PS fluid level after the first lock to lock, and every 2-3 times thereafter. After about 6-8 lock to lock turns, you will have purged 90 percent of the air, and the pump will have quieted down. If anything does not seem normal, i.e. steering wheel shake, shut down and re-check to insure the lines are connected correctly.

    NOTE: If you bought repro hydraulic hoses, be aware they may fail within 10-100 miles. Many were improperly crimped, which cut the hose nearly in two beneath the crimp. The pressure hose is most susceptible, but carefully inspect each hose BEFORE installation. A clue is if the hose is cocked, even slightly at the crimp. Also, the metal ends are much softer and bend much more easily than OEM. So insure they are routed to afford minimal sideward pull. If you still have the OEM hoses, compare them closely with the repros, and you will note the differences. Beware, if a pressure hose fails during operation, you immediately lose PS, and smell and see smoke because the PS fluid will spray onto the exhaust. Pull over immediately and call AAA.

    After driving the car 50 miles or so, re-check reservoir fluid level. I use a Ford type reservoir cover, with dipstick, but if yours is OEM cover, you'll need to remove the cover to check fluid level.
    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by JoeHall; 03-25-2020, 05:14 AM.

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    • #3
      Do NOT reach through the steering wheel spokes on first start up. If the lines to the ram are accidently reversed, the wheel will whip back and forth violently, and it can cause bodily harm! Make sure the marks on the pitman arm line up with the marks on the spline end of the steering sector or your centering of the wheel will be off, and also the "high spot" of the steering box, so there will be more of a tendency to wander because of the greater slop. Make sure the bracket on the steering column clamp bolt is in place, and the spring that holds the hoses away from the hot exhaust in place wrapped around the pressure, and return lines.
      Bez Auto Alchemy
      573-318-8948
      http://bezautoalchemy.com


      "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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      • #4
        Thank you to both of you who made suggestions. Anxious to start driving it again. Jim
        sigpicJimmie
        Orange County, Indiana
        1950 CHAMPION -ORANGE COUNTY, INDIANA

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