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1964 GT Hawk R2 Brake Issue

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  • #46
    Originally posted by CO64 View Post
    I was curious, what does "OP" stand for anyway? I think I even saw "PO" somewhere in the thread, lol, and I wasn't PO'd at all : ))

    Back to the topic:

    OK, to recap: /Cut/As to brake fluid, I will have the entire system flushed. What is the recommended replacement fluid? Please confirm./Cut/If possible, please confirm the couple of items above and I will get into purchasing the items and then will be ready to get her on the road with confidence.

    Thank you to all who have contributed to the post.
    Thx Art
    OK Art you are doing a Fine Job and are a Fast learner! Just follow Joe's Good info and forget about all that Modifying to 10 Inch Rear drum stuff he does not recommend.

    Here is the answer to your unanswered Question:
    After throughly Flushing, Blowing dry all the lines, cleaning as many Wheel Cylinders as well as you can and replacing some and the Master Cyl. you should have it clean enough to install the Very BEST Fluid!

    I Highly recommend the DOT 5 Silicone Brake Fluid (Order the QUARTS, the 12 OZ are outrageous $).
    I have used it for 25 to 30 Years and three of my Stude's. have not needed Hydraulic Parts replacement EVER since installing it!

    Most here also agree, just get all fittings good and tight and expect to replace the Hydraulic Stop Light Switch with a Mechanical, normally OPEN switch, either Now or after the Fluid eats the Hydraulic Switch.

    When Ordering a New M/C you can order the 531510 for non-Disc and just be sure to Remove the Residual Valve on the end of the Internal Return Spring and the Rubber Cushion in the back end of the Cylinder.

    The '59-'64 Chassis Parts Catalog lists all the Parts of the M/C's. and those 2 Parts are THE Only difference.

    OH!
    PO = Prior Owner
    OP = Original Poster ... You!
    Last edited by StudeRich; 03-28-2020, 09:41 PM.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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    • #47
      Art, ASSuming you may be tempted to drive your GT awhile as is, before getting round to restoring the brakes, as discussed here, you wanna be sure the current tandem MC is full of fluid. As you mentioned, there's an access plate in the floorboard above the MC, and Turner recommence to cut an additional hole rearward for access to the rear reservoir. But that access plate is below the carpet, which must be untucked from below the sill plate to pull ups dn over to uncover the access plate, etc.. In short, it's a real PITA, and can be messy.

      For many years, I've been checking/adding fluid to the tandem MC from below the car. Use a large screwdriver with a slight angle bend (better yet, brake shoe adjusting spoon) to remove/reinstall the wire that holds the cover in place; slide the cover off, then use a finger tip as a dip stick to check fluid level (both reservoirs). If even 1/4" down, I top off. Use a 2 ounce plastic syringe, available in most FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Stores); attach a 2" length of 5/16"rubber hose on the tip, then slip a 5/16" copper line into the hose, about 4" long, bent into a 'U' shape. With syringe filled, slip the copper line into the reservoir and and squeeze the syringe to add fluid. You will develop a knack for filling the syringe by sticking the end of the copper line into a container of brake fluid. FIRST, you need to figure out which DOT fluid is currently in the car. Rather than reinvent the wheel, there are several excellent videos on line to review, explaining how to do that. Click image for larger version

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      Last edited by JoeHall; 03-29-2020, 09:10 AM.

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      • #48
        HI Joe and Rich,

        Thanks for the extra details. Awesome. I am on the case. I am going to save the 10"ers, no issue. Hopefully in great shape or easily refurbished.
        From my sleuthing, no one has touched the brakes since AT LEAST before 2009 .

        For all that watched this post, and those that contributed, Thx! I am likely just going to close here. If I have any questions Joe, I will PM you from this post.

        I do have some other general things, but will post in the general topic area.

        Last thing for those still following this post, does anyone know how I can get in touch with Myles Walker. I am guessing he was a SDC member, back in early 2000's, but not sure if he is still an active member. Myles owned my car in 2002 (last documented case that I can find). Let me know! I am going to post a general request to find Myles separately.

        Thanks again for the great and rapid response.

        Art Tyre
        Sun City West
        64 R2 Hawk

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        • #49
          Correction on last post: Save the 11'ers. (not 10" ers)

          Art

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          • #50
            Originally posted by JoeHall View Post

            If this is the OP's car, there is no mention of PDBs on any of the paperwork I could see, unless they are included in the, "37 HI PERF PKG R2". However, I can see that it has the reservoir on the firewall, but a HV for drum brakes. So, if it has DBs, no mater if OEM or Turners, they will never work well (hard pedal) with the lower PSI drum brake HV. Nor will the rears work well with the tandem MC, plumbed to bypass the HV, if they are 11" drum type, which came with factory PDB. On the other hand, if they are the 10", self energizing type that came with front drums, they will work quite well if plumbed separately, provided the shoe liner is good quality.

            No need to buy a Production Order, as a perfectly readable one is shown in the ad.

            Option 122, GAS TANK DRAIN PLUG is interesting, and no charge listed.
            Joe.
            The hi performance package came with disc brakes so isn’t called out separately. The drain plug is on there as it was a show car and tank needed to be drained for entrance to a convention center.

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            • #51
              One other note on the serial plate. I’ve seen more than one Stude with the plate screwed on the post rather than welded. One was on a 64 full package R2 I owned about 40 years ago. It had about 20k original miles at the time and had original paint, carpet, upholstery, etc. That car was absolutely never touched or tampered with. Maybe the spot welder was broken/out of commission the day of assembly in SB? The fact is; some, not many, serial plates were attached with screws, So, I’m sure your serial plate and car is correct but verification can be made using the secret serial number.....if it’s still legible.

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              • #52
                Originally posted by nels View Post
                One other note on the serial plate. I’ve seen more than one Stude with the plate screwed on the post rather than welded. One was on a 64 full package R2 I owned about 40 years ago. It had about 20k original miles at the time and had original paint, carpet, upholstery, etc. That car was absolutely never touched or tampered with. Maybe the spot welder was broken/out of commission the day of assembly in SB? The fact is; some, not many, serial plates were attached with screws, So, I’m sure your serial plate and car is correct but verification can be made using the secret serial number.....if it’s still legible.
                The difference is whether the original plate has had its original welds broken/cut or the plate was never welded. This plate shows signs of having been originally spot welded.
                Gary L.
                Wappinger, NY

                SDC member since 1968
                Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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