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Any tips on fitting NOS doors? 1964 Cruiser

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  • Body / Glass: Any tips on fitting NOS doors? 1964 Cruiser

    Having owned 64 V19816 since 1973, and even in 1973 it had established rust (it lived since 1965 on an island near the sea). Wisely I’ve stocked NOS sheet metal in the old York days and at this point I’m ready to make the NOS door shells in primer into working doors. I want to swap out all my existing fittings and upper frames, door cards then paint and install. •. The floors posts and rockers still look good from the c. 1985 first resto. I just patched the door bottoms back then •• So any step by step tips so hopefully for Once in my life I don’t have to pull out stuff over and over. I’ve got the body parts manual.

  • #2
    Many of the NOS doors are production regects. Check the door fit using the bare shell one at a time. On many instances the front and back of the shell are out of alignment. There may be a slight twist to the door. On our 64 Daytona I could not get a good alignment with both the fender and the rear door on the left side.b
    james r pepper


    • #3
      Originally posted by jpepper View Post
      Many of the NOS doors are production regects.
      That's for sure! The NOS '64 Lark hardtop door I got from N&A 30 years ago is for sure a production reject. In fact, I'm seriously considering using the skin and the door bottom off that door to fix the original.

      Winston-Salem, NC
      Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at:


      • #4
        I don't know if the hinges are like the 55's but I had to make shims for the hinge to door area and do a lot of trying before they were satisfactory. I made the shims from thin metal used on the electrical hookup cover on electric water heaters.
        I think I was also able to borrow a door support from a friend who has a body shop.
        Very helpful.


        • #5
          Be sure to undercoat the Inside of your New Door, because if it was from the Parts Warehouse stock it will be BARE!
          If it happens to be from Canada or S/B Assembly Line over stock, it MAY already have it.

          Without that, it will sound like a Tin Can. BTDT, had a Body Shop do that!
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner


          • #6
            I have long believed many NOS parts that continue to turn up are, in fact, factory rejects and shod went in the trash in the first place. ASSuming your doors are not factory rejects, there are shims for top and bottom hinges, between door and hinge; you could also make shims to go between the forward half of the hinge and door post. Also, the windows are shiftable to align what the frames, to an extent. The frames could likely be carefully, "adjusted" to fit, if needed. Agree with above, I'd install the bare door first, then add components one at a time, insuring each aligns correctly.

            Agree with Rich on undercoating, but I'd use Rhino-Liner brand truck bed liner instead of the original stuff. I used that everywhere possible in a 56J I restored, and it was as quiet as any K body Study can be. Have also used it on any Stude I have replaced carpet in over the last 20 years or so. Nowadays, there's water based versions available, i.e. Lizard Skin, but I have no experience with those.


            • #7
              That’s a great idea with using the bed liner inside the new doors. BTW these doors are still in excelsior wrap and bought early ‘80s. My help putting these in has years as a hot rod builder under his belt. I just want to make sure I can get window, regulator and all in, in the proper order. As to warehouse parts being line rejects, I can’t see that this was acceptable practice back then. I think that “adjustment” was always expected.


              • #8
                It appears to me that once the regulator is removed, after the remaining window track bolts and upper frames are unbolted the whole top end glass and all just pulls out...correct? Yes I know the front tops are welded in the this just cut? Taking off the rear doors..looks easier to remove hinge with door? Taking out screws through door post openings, then loose fitting old hinges to new shell then fitting in?
                Last edited by 64V19816; 03-10-2020, 10:21 AM.