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  • Drive Shaft: clunk when changing gears

    clunk in shifting from park to forward or reverse or just changing directions. new universals installed. check rear or tranny?

  • #2
    You maybe suffering from drive line slack, too fast an idle speed will aggravate this. check the axle nuts first, 175 ft lbs then tighten to cotter pin alignment IMS. Luck Doofus

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    • #3
      Most common, and first and easiest to check, are the rear axle nuts' torque. They gotta be torqued to spec which, IIRC, is the first alignment hole in the castle nut (with cotter pin hole in the axle), AFTER 170 foot pounds or torque are achieved.

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      • #4
        thanks guys, how full should fluid be? there is no full mark or even a dip stick .just a cap. should i check fluid in gear when running?

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        • #5
          thanks guys. how full should trans fluid be ? no dip stick just cap

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          • #6
            So are we working with a Pre-1961 Lark or a Pre-1962 Hawk?
            Have you removed the "Cap"? If it does not have a Dipstick inside you need a New Cap Assy.

            The Manual Says 650 RPM or Less, Warm, Running in Drive, Wheels Chocked, Park Brake on with Borg Warner Flight-O-Matic '56-'66 Models, and LOW Gear on Studebaker Automatic Drive (Detroit gear DG models) 1950 to 1955 Cars.

            The Type "F" (Ford) ATF works the Best in my opinion, due to firmer Shift/Less Wear, but many others have used the Dexron II and higher Mercon ATF successfully as an alternative. The Stick has a "FULL" Mark.
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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            • #7
              Hey, be sure to check all of your engine and trans mounts. That old rubber is petrified and likely to break and could cause a clunk.
              Ron Dame
              '63 Champ

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              • #8
                I had a similar problem with my ‘62 lark. Mine is a standard though. My issue was in the axle. (A loud clunk when switching from 1st to reverse) Dana 44 twin traction. My clutches (little smooth and little friction disks on either side of the diff) were all worn and some discs had grooves in them. A new set fixed that issue. Pretty hard for me to find those parts though. The only place was a heavy industrial shop that delt mostly with semi trucks and construction equipment.

                Good luck

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