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  • Engine: Rear Main Seal

    Hi Guys, Replacing rear main seal on 62 V-8 Lark. Got pan off, Got oil pump off. Got rear main cap off. Any tips, tricks, suggestions for removing the top half of the seal that's in the engine block? I've tried tapping on one end with a punch but its not moving. Should I really hit it hard and hope the seal starts to budge? I know god help me. Don't really want to pull the engine.

  • #2
    My guess, it was installed with something like Permatex #2 on the back side, which is still holding. I'd start with a thin blade screwdriver to VERY carefully pry the back edge of the seal toward the crank, to sorta peel it off the flange it rides on. May also be able to peel it a bit more by sacrificing the screwdriver, bending it so that it will snake around higher up in the block. After prying as high as possible with he screwdriver, I'd use something flexible, like a huge tie-tie to snake on up around the top side to try and peel it some more. Then I'd use something like a gunsmith's nylon drift to press hard on the seal end, to persuade it to move. Better to press hard on the drift with your hand than hammer/peck on it, but if you must peck, use a nylon faced hammer on the nylon drift. Once it moves, it will then rotate on around and fall off. Once removed, take as long as needed to insure the flange the seal rides on is clean; use something like lacquer thinner and a red shop towel cut into strips small though to push all the way around the upper half that you cannot see. Maybe also use the thick tie-tie to push the rag all the way around, repeatedly. Clean the seal mating surface in the bearing cap first, so you know exactly what you are dealing with in upper half. WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT USE ANYTHING METAL NEAR THE CRANK, LEST YOU SCAR THE JOURNAL.
    Last edited by JoeHall; 03-01-2020, 07:57 PM.

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    • #3
      Thank you Joe. Sounds like some good advice.

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      • #4
        I like to off set the part line a 1/4 inch or so to help seal work. if you have to much blow by you maybe wasting your time. Luck Doofus

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        • #5
          I always loosen the two and three main bearing cap bolts a couple of turns to allow the crankshaft to drop a bit. That will loosen the seal up enough that it will usually tap out easily with a brass punch.

          Roger List
          Roger W. List
          Proud Studebaker Owner

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          • #6
            Roger is correct. Shop manual even tells you to do this.
            Originally posted by Roger L. View Post
            I always loosen the two and three main bearing cap bolts a couple of turns to allow the crankshaft to drop a bit. That will loosen the seal up enough that it will usually tap out easily with a brass punch.

            Roger List

            Russ Shop Foreman \"Rusty Nut Garage\"
            53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
            57 SH (project)
            60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Roger L. View Post
              I always loosen the two and three main bearing cap bolts a couple of turns to allow the crankshaft to drop a bit. That will loosen the seal up enough that it will usually tap out easily with a brass punch.

              Roger List
              In practice that does not work as well as one would think. Can't get a socket on the front main bearing with the timing gear core in place and, with eight rods connected, the crank will won't even pry down a noticeable amount. Still, every little bit helps. The lip of the seal will compress against the crank more than anything else you can do, once you can get a skinny screwdriver behind it. At least that's my recollection from the last time I had to replace a rear seal. Unless during an overhaul, I always do them under the car, and hate the job.

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              • #8
                I was able to get it done. I wouldn't call it easy, but its done. Next time, the engine comes out. So far no drips, see how long that lasts. Thanks to all that responded.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by 56 Rando View Post
                  I was able to get it done. I wouldn't call it easy, but its done. Next time, the engine comes out. So far no drips, see how long that lasts. Thanks to all that responded.
                  Congrats. If it makes the first 100 miles without leaking, it's probably good to go!

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