Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

63 Lark Brakes sticking

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Brakes: 63 Lark Brakes sticking

    hi all..
    somewhat perplexed, after braking my brake predal doesnt return fully vertical . theres around 3/4of an inch travel left -- this is easily corrected with a flick of my foot . however if not full returned the brakes jam up ... ( stop lights stay on which stops tailgaters ..
    this is a 63 Lark with underfloor master to drums .. (is a New Zealand car so wasnt high on tech despite what was available for this car )


    is this a thing in the master cylinder? ie grunge building up ... the master going rotten .. a few months back i fiited the rubber boot back over the pedal end - now thinking i should have left it as it wouldve been good for drainage ..

    anyone struck this and was there a good cure please ??

    Thanks
    Al

  • #2
    Does sound like a bad master cylinder. this M/C is easy to come buy,remove it and take it apart. maybe a kit then flush system. make sure the pedal return spring is in place. when you reinstalled M/C boot what did open end of cylinder look like? should be clean and dry no rusty goo or drooling fluid. Luck Doofus

    Comment


    • #3
      If the brake lights turn off and the brakes don't jam up after you pull the pedal up, I would concentrate on the return spring and adjust it, (if possible) or replace it with one that would pull the pedal all the way up.
      sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
      1950 Champion Convertible
      1950 Champion 4Dr
      1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
      1957 Thunderbird

      Comment


      • #4
        Sounds like the return spring to me since I had the same problem. A properly working brake spring is really powerful and hard to stretch. There have been many posts on this forum describing ways to spread the spring in order to hook it up so if your spring is easy to stretch you have found your problem.

        Comment


        • #5
          Yes, start with a new return spring. Springs lose springiness in 50 or 60 years and a bit of rust weakens them, also. If the problem persists then replace the MC. (Always go to cheapest, easiest fix first)

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by doofus View Post
            Does sound like a bad master cylinder. this M/C is easy to come buy,remove it and take it apart. maybe a kit then flush system. make sure the pedal return spring is in place. when you reinstalled M/C boot what did open end of cylinder look like? should be clean and dry no rusty goo or drooling fluid. Luck Doofus
            Thanks Doofus...

            late last year id removed the 'hill holder' as it weeping. at that point the whole system was bled . All that came about partially due to the brake light pressure switch
            failure that had been replaced- weeks prior

            at some point between then and now id refitted the MC boot . made a new return spring bracket -the original had worn- while refitting the spring snapped .. As a result i reshaped and fitted and all worked as it should ..

            inside the end of the m/c looked dry -nothing untoward

            everyone else thanks will start at the return spring

            Thanks All !

            Comment


            • #7
              up date... spent a couple of hours this morning .. what i found was the pin that allows the pedal to move backwards /forwards was full of some slime grease like stuff. using a combination of contact cleaner (dries no residue) and machine oil to wash it out .. repacked the whole thing with grease and graphite dust mixed in. there is some kind of twisted logic to doing that .. also returned the original spring mount plate to where it was .
              the pedal now bangs against the underside of the floor -- something its never done and no sticky pedal

              Comment


              • #8
                This sounds good, my 60 lark project suffers from a broken spring also. vise grips and a comealong will install the new spring. people have forced washers into the spring coils making it longer. Luck Doofus

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by doofus View Post
                  This sounds good, my 60 lark project suffers from a broken spring also. vise grips and a comealong will install the new spring. people have forced washers into the spring coils making it longer. Luck Doofus
                  Doofus yes that worked for me !! although -forced washers !! ???? jeepers thats not a good solution !!!

                  these old cars are so much fun !! :-)

                  after a 30 mile round trip the brake pedal works fine woohoo !!

                  however theres always the next thing... (or things with my car) its such a drama queen !!
                  .
                  at the local testing station here , it was found the rear brakes arent really being any help when it comes to braking (the emergency brake locks them up ok )

                  the fronts obviously working overtime are probably shiney was well... as they are down as they are down on performance sigh

                  to top that off my 6 month old battery isnt holding a charge .. the Delco style alt is pumping 12.5 volts at idle and the battery is holding 11.5 volts ....

                  thanks All !!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The Alternator SHOULD be putting out 13.5 Volts at idle, up on top of the Earth!
                    StudeRich
                    Second Generation Stude Driver,
                    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                      The Alternator SHOULD be putting out 13.5 Volts at idle, up on top of the Earth!
                      ive put a 64mm drive pulley in place of the 68mm diameter pulley.. that seems to have sorted its performance a bit .. the alternartor is a newer aftermarket Delco 3 wire look-a-like.. it charges what its feels like.. when the lights are on it lifts its game to compensate

                      12.5v charging when the motor is parked in the drive idling and nothing else going...

                      although now youve said that im a little concerned its still undercharging.... keep yas posted

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Maybe that rear rubber hose is blocking up. If your lark has self adjusters maybe they aren't operational. Keep us posted please , Luck Doofus

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 23 cratae View Post

                          Doofus yes that worked for me !! although -forced washers !! ???? jeepers thats not a good solution !!!
                          Forcing washers in those springs to make them longer for installation is a good trick. They'll all fall out the first time you step on the clutch pedal.
                          Skip Lackie

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by 23 cratae View Post

                            Doofus yes that worked for me !! although -forced washers !! ???? jeepers thats not a good solution !!!

                            these old cars are so much fun !! :-)

                            after a 30 mile round trip the brake pedal works fine woohoo !!

                            however theres always the next thing... (or things with my car) its such a drama queen !!
                            .
                            at the local testing station here , it was found the rear brakes arent really being any help when it comes to braking (the emergency brake locks them up ok )

                            the fronts obviously working overtime are probably shiney was well... as they are down as they are down on performance sigh

                            to top that off my 6 month old battery isnt holding a charge .. the Delco style alt is pumping 12.5 volts at idle and the battery is holding 11.5 volts ....

                            thanks All !!
                            1963 self adjusting brakes can be somewhat tricky. Unless you already got the drums out and had a look inside, I would do it to be certain that no parts are missing. Some people seen to don't understand this system and have a tendancy to junk parts when they don't understand what they are doing. Please, don't ask me how I know! See this link for further details:https://drive.google.com/open?id=13y...S886hKEU5O1tZQ
                            Also, be aware that there is adjusters even if it is a self adjusting system! All linings are supposed to be 3/16" thick, except for the secondary fronts which are 1/4".
                            A big plus is to use special high temp grease for all friction points and special rubber grease for all hydraulic parts.
                            Nice day to all.


                            sigpic

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Skip Lackie View Post
                              Forcing washers in those springs to make them longer for installation is a good trick. They'll all fall out the first time you step on the clutch pedal.
                              oh i get that now !! very good idea !!

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X