Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Daytona radiator.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Daytona radiator.

    My problem is cooling the 259 in '64 Daytona. I've tried electric fans, flex fans etc. The radiator is a two core which I suspect is the problem. On what year/model Studes were a 3 or 4 core radiator standard and would these fit in my chassis? Cruising season here is likely to be 90 degrees or above and while cooling happens on the road, boiling happens in traffic.

  • #2
    When did your engine last have it's cooling passages cleaned out? This means removing the six core plugs at the bottom of the block, three on each side, and cleaning out the accumulated sludge. Because the engine slopes to the rear, the sludge builds up in the back. When it reaches near the top of the No. 7 cylinder, the temp gage there does not get coolant circulating past it and it tells you the engine is HOT. It is hot at this point and will boil the coolant. A clean block in a 259 generally will be cooled by a 2 core radiator.

    [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
    Tom Bredehoft
    '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
    '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
    (Under Construction 564 hrs.)
    '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
    All Indiana built cars

    Comment


    • #3
      The engine is just back on the road after a complete rebuild with all the appropriate tanking, cleaning, new soft plugs etc. Has overheated from the start...that's the reason for all the vain attempts with fans etc. NOS w/pump was installed at rebuild. Grant

      Comment


      • #4
        Next question, does it really boil, or does the temp gauge pin? 45 years are not always kind to temp gauges.

        I calibrated my by using a candy thermometer in the radiator.

        [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
        Tom Bredehoft
        '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
        '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
        (Under Construction 564 hrs.)
        '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
        All Indiana built cars

        Comment


        • #5
          I am currently tracking a cooling issue myself. Agree with all that has been said about block cleaning. Kinda hard to do anything without removing the engine and taking the heads off and core plugs out so you can get coat hangers/ drill driven speedo cable with burred end in all the nooks and crannies.

          A recent club members 3 row recore of a stock radiator in a '55 with R-2 and A/C was in the $500-600 range. I was considering putting an aftermarket aluminum radiator for a Chevy in but mounting tabs have to be TIG welded to the tanks which are on the sides instead of top and bottom like a Stude. Cost of a 2 row aluminum radiator(supposedly equivalent to 3 row copper) from Speedway Motors delivered to SoCal is $162. Then add cost to weld on tabs. I'm considering asking a friend who has several restored and cool running cars to loan me a radiator to rule out my current radiator as the source of the problem.

          Good luck!!!




          Comment


          • #6
            is it actually overheating or just boiling over? have you had it pressure tested, including the cap?

            nate

            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            http://members.cox.net/njnagel
            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            http://members.cox.net/njnagel

            Comment


            • #7
              You may require a fan shroud now available from your FLSV!
              (Friendly Local Studebaker Vendor!)
              If you consistently experience over 90' Temps. where you live.

              Make sure the fan spacer is in place, and or get the H.D. 7 blade fan or viscous drive and H.D. 6 blade Fan to pull more air through the radiator at idle. I have added the three row Radiator that was used for A/C and not noticed a difference, but my '64's have not overheated when in Calif. 80' weather with working 160' Stats.
              Check that the spring is inside of the lower Rad. hose.

              I would hate to think that the block has voids or thin spots, that after boring are close enough to cause hot spots on the Cylinder walls, I sure would try everything else first.


              StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner

              Comment


              • #8
                You say that a N.O.S,water pump was installed.
                It may have been one of these new pumps ordered from most vendors.
                These have the improper impeller and spacing.
                There was a long discussion on this in Turning Wheels awhile back
                When you look thru the water filler neck in the radiator when the car is hot,you should see
                a good flow of water.
                I will try to find out when this overheating problem was discussed in TW.
                Bob

                Comment


                • #9
                  See
                  http://www.studebaker-info.org/text3/waterpumps.txt

                  Bob

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The problem with the pumps centered around dimensions on a blue print. It seems that one tolerance was set up without reference to mating parts.

                    The answer is to measure the distance between the mounting flange on the pump and the impeller, and the same distance on the pump cavity and try to adjust the impeller on the shaft so that there is no more or less than .015 clearance between the impeller and the back of the cavity. I found mine was .120, eight times what it was supposed to be.

                    Phil Harris, of Fairborn Studebaker will make this adjustment to your existing pump. I would expect a small fee would be involved.

                    [edit to correct math]

                    [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
                    Tom Bredehoft
                    '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
                    '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
                    (Under Construction 564 hrs.)
                    '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
                    All Indiana built cars

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Sorry for the absence of ten days but some health concerns intervened. Haven't had heating problems with -18 degree weather this week.
                      To answer some questions; the heat gauge seems to be correct, when it hits the last mark on the gauge steam and water will blow past the pressure cap. Cap has been changed, even at 14#, which I know is excessive, it boils. I've fashioned a shroud that is pretty tight and am currently running a 6 blade flex fan within the shroud.

                      Thanks for the specs on the pump, Tom B, when the weather moderates some I'll pull it and check clearances. The engine had stock bores before we bored it .030 so we shouldn't have thin walls. We can't see any signs of compression leakage into the cooling system.

                      The engine is just getting enough miles on it now to run decent and that is satisfactory. Thanks for all the replies. It may be a while before I can quit shoveling snow and work on the Stude but will try to let you know if we cure the problem. Merry Christmas!!

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X