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  • Fuel System: Gas line at sending unit

    Hello all, I need to replace my sending unit gasket on my 57 silver hawk. The manual says nothing about disconnecting the gas line. Well, I have a full tank of gas and not much access to the 7/16 nut which is very difficult to turn. Any tricks to know or just patience? I don’t want to break either end
    of the gas line. Thanks.

  • #2
    Hey Up Kirk, first drain some gas out,5 gals should do it. you need 2 wrenches, one to hold the sender fitting and the other to break the tube nut on the line loose. it's not easy,our 57 Silver hawk had the sender access hole lengthened toward the front!.IIRC you can make an offset line wrench for this job.we wound up with a new tank as i got tired of patching the old one.Luck Doofus

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    • #3
      Doofus, thanks. Yes, I was thinking of bending a wrench for an off set. I did bend the front edge of the access hole, but man is it tight. Instead of draining I was going to drive it a bit. However, not being a mechanic I’ve put off another thing it needs, having the heads retorqued. That doesn’t scare me as much as doing the valve clearance. I’ve noticed that you share a lot of wisdom here, so about that valve clearance. I’ve been away from the whole timing thing and tdc for a while and not really following the manual. Can you put it into “idiot” terms for me. The one thing I’m sure about is doing it cold and not running. Thanks!

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      • #4
        I had the same problem with our Hawk. Ended up using snips to cut the hole toward the back and bending it up. Then when done bend it back into place and the cover screws on, can't even tell. A flare fitting wrench is very helpful too. Be careful to hold the fitting while turning the nut, you don't want to break the solder joint. Use some thread sealer when you put it back together.

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        • #5
          OK Kirk, plugs out, valve covers off cold engine. you need remote starter switch and a narrow bladed "Mini Feeler gauge". the one with blades narrower than valve stem. bump engine over 'till TDC mark shows under pointer. check that both valves are loose.adjust to .025 thousandths. next follow firing order,no 8 comes up next, bump engine till piston is up,i use a plastic straw to verify this. adjust no8 and follow firing order around, 18436572. before i do a valve adj. any more i listen to each valve with a stethescope, quiet or uneven sounding valves and they all get adjusted. even tapping sounds and idling ok i leave them alone. the narrow feeler gauge is because some engines have a groove worn in the rockers. you would bridge this with a normal gauge. there are no shops in my area that can grind a rocker arm correctly. Luck Doofus

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          • #6
            Originally posted by doofus View Post
            OK Kirk, plugs out, valve covers off cold engine. you need remote starter switch and a narrow bladed "Mini Feeler gauge". the one with blades narrower than valve stem. bump engine over 'till TDC mark shows under pointer. check that both valves are loose.adjust to .025 thousandths. next follow firing order,no 8 comes up next, bump engine till piston is up,i use a plastic straw to verify this. adjust no8 and follow firing order around, 18436572. before i do a valve adj. any more i listen to each valve with a stethescope, quiet or uneven sounding valves and they all get adjusted. even tapping sounds and idling ok i leave them alone. the narrow feeler gauge is because some engines have a groove worn in the rockers. you would bridge this with a normal gauge. there are no shops in my area that can grind a rocker arm correctly. Luck Doofus
            Or, you can set #1 at TDC on ignition stroke and adjust #s 1- 3 - 4 - 8Exhaust and 1- 2 - 5 - 7 Intake , then turn #6 to TDC (ignition stroke) and adjust #s 2 - 5 - 6 - 7Exhaust and 3 - 4 - 6 - 8 Intake if you want to save a lot of turning.

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            • #7
              Thanks Bensherb, that's a much easier way for sure.Luck Doofus

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