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1962 170/6 oil filter housing

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  • Engine: 1962 170/6 oil filter housing

    New here , so I hope I do this correctly! Im trying to find out on a 1962 Lark with a 170/6 with the screw on oil filter if the pressure relief valves can be replaced and where to find them Im not having any luck!

  • #2
    If your filter is at the top of the engine it is a partial flow filter and has no relief valves just an orifice to control the flow. They keep the oil quite nice in spite of many comments to the contrary--think swimming pool filters which work great unless the kids are throwing in handfuls of mud. If your filter is down by the pan (62 was a transition year) there is a relief valve in the aluminum adapter casting. Pretty sure they are non servicable but you could get another one of the adapters easily from one of the usual vendors.

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    • #3
      Are you having oil pressure issues?

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      • #4
        I have bought two 62 Larks, one in nice shape non-running, one good running parts car with lower oil pressure. When changing oil and filter I could not get the filter off without taking the filter base off, in the process of cleaning the base found one the the valve sticking and not seating cleaned it well and put it back together oil pressure went up buried my gauge at 15psi. I thought cool found the problem the next time I started it up it only hit 7psi and has not changed scene! So I'm wondering if one of those are not seating!

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        • #5
          "Buried your Gauge at 15 PSI"? Is that a Typo? Most Oil Pressure Gauges go to 80, so 15 is not good. My Full Flow Engine Studes. consistently run 60-70 PSI.
          It is clear now, that you have a "Late '62" with the Full Flow Filter at the Right Rear, bottom of the Engine.

          Yes the Valve disc may have partially "Flipped" over and is bi-passing oil from the Filter to the Oil Pan, I don't see that reducing pressure, it MIGHT be possible though.
          But the real oil pressure control is the Pressure Relief Valve at the Lower, Right FRONT of the Engine.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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          • #6
            The 62 Lark only came with a dumb light so I hooked up one of my gauges to it. My low gauge is 0-15,the other is 0-80 but in twenty psi increments! Yes it is a late 62 with a flow through filter I didn't know where the pressure relief valve was I will have to do a little more research on it! Any input on what the pressure needs to be ideling been told that 7psi is not bad in the older engines and to run it!

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            • #7
              In late 80s, I wrote a letter to The Studebaker Co-Operator in Turning Wheels about a stuck pressure relief valve in the original 289 V8 on my 63 GT Hawk.
              Ingvar Vik wrote an excellent response to my letter explaining how to disassemble, un-stick, and clean the pressure relief valve.
              I found a reference on Bob Johnstone's website - https://studebaker-info.org/64v2488/260800.html
              The first picture shows the assembly and the homemade tool which can be used to remove a stuck pressure relief valve.
              Please check the pressure relief valve before you run the engine on your 62 Lark.
              I don't know that it will solve all of your oil pressure problems but it is well worth checking!
              Last edited by Ermine White; 11-27-2019, 09:54 AM.

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              • #8
                Ingvar Vik's response about the serviceable pressure relief valve on Studebaker engines did mention that the valve diverts oil at startup and idle engine speeds. I don't remember if that affects oil pressure readings at the oil gauge.
                The original fiber timing gear on my 289 V8 had failed and I thought that the stuck pressure relief valve was partially responsible to this fiber gear failure.
                The serviceable pressure relief valve was easy to service and I ultimately changed to an aluminum timing gear.

                Addendum:
                I found an explanation for servicing the pressure relief valve in the SDC article - "Things To Do After You Bought That Studebaker" by Ingvar Vik that sounds like The Studebaker Co-Operator response:

                "While you have your hands dirty from setting the valves, you should remove the oil pressure relief valve and clean it. There is a small orifice in the plunger that gets clogged up sometimes and when this happens your timing gears won't get any oil when the engine is running slow when it is warm. The pressure relief valve is located on the lower block toward the front, below the water pump on the passengers side. Use a 3/4" socket with a short extension and a ratchet to remove the cap. Take out the spring and plunger. If the plunger won't come out easily, a small magnet-tipped rod will usually coax it out. Sometimes a small screwdriver or a 3/16" drill can be used if you can get it into the hole in the plunger and, lifting up slightly, pull it out. Do not enlarge the hole on the plunger. Wash the parts in solvent before reinstalling them. Do not stretch the spring either."
                Last edited by Ermine White; 11-27-2019, 10:00 AM.

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