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Back wheel lug stub blues

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  • Wheels / Tires: Back wheel lug stub blues

    Hello everybody. First I would like to say thank you for being here . from what I have read , there is a wealth of knowledge about everything Studebaker here .
    That being said here's my issue . (don't laugh )
    my friend who was diagnosed with 3 types of cancer FOR THE SECOND TIME (she's a real bad ass) has a '55 Studebaker Commander its been sitting for over 15 years on a slab of concrete long that it has broken the slab and she needs to move it. Well the tires were destroyed over time (real nice ones gummed firestone white walls. ) she needs to move it ( maybe sell it ) I am stalling ....ok damn it I didn't know the lug nuts turned left on the left side of the car until I came here . I thought that they were just frozen . I broke all the studs on the left side
    there I said it . I'm not telling her because she doesn't need the stress. And I don't need the subject brought up for years to come.
    so here's my status front hub removed no prob . hit the star wheel relieved pressure ... Done .
    But that god forsaken back wheel ... After renting every 3 armed hub puller. Could find to no avail 8 bought a 8 inching from harbor freight and grinded the inner arms down enough for it to actually function . and got the drum off the lug nut holding hub with a woodfruff key slot thing .
    current condition is it has the puller on it right now with a bunch of on blaster on it. gonna heat with torch and here's where you guys come in . should I break out the dynamite while trying to pull this off or should I get a QTip and gently cleanse the orifice (ha )what is the trick to the back wheel. Damn . its a SOB

  • #2
    Wait if I take off the brake shoes and crap I might be able to slip the lug bolts in through the back . and then tighten them seated . is this possible ? Has the beacon of Studebaker insight been absorbed via reverse osmosis just from being here .?


    • #3
      Sounds like a noble mission you are on. You are certainly not the first person to twist off the left threaded lug nuts, but I have not heard of anyone twisting off all 10, LOL. Obviously you have good mechanical savvy, in figuring out an alternate way to remove the left rear drum. Now you just need to find a shop to remove the lug nut stud nubs, but this time installing studs with right handed threads is a good idea. For the right side, you need a special puller that is anchored by the lug nuts. If you do a search here there have been several articles written on how to remove & install the rear drums, and replace the studs. I will look for some of the links and put them here. Good luck!

      Here are a few links:Hawk GT 1962 brake issues
      Brake Drum Issues on 59 Silver Hawk :-/
      Cutting Swage / Swedge To Remove Drum From Hub
      Rear brake drum removal on a '56 Golden Hawk
      Rear Drum removal - revisted
      Last edited by JoeHall; 10-29-2019, 05:12 AM.


      • #4
        Thank you .


        • #5
          Originally posted by Gnarnold View Post
          Thank you .
          Good for you for helping her out but you've only tied the record for most broken studs.

          I hope the HF puller works but that style makes it tough to use a BFH on the end to shock the drum while pulling but not impossible.

          There is always the nuclear option of finding a used drum, shouldn't be that hard in your area, and cutting into the hub and using a cold chisel to split the offending hub. You'd need to slot it in a couple of places and also the area of the drum close to it. It's cast iron so it should work.

          Hopefully some other ideas will be added to help.



          • #6
            I only have the one rear left hub I guess you would call it I got the drum off now its just the round plate with the lug nubs I don't want to bend that plate by beating on it . I will check out the links thank you


            • #7
              Find a replacement brake drum. The odds are you are going to mess up the original (more than you already have) so having a replacement to go right on will be the quickest way. If you have the drum off of the hub, try taking a big punch and driving the nubs out the back side. You can then substitute some grade 8 bolts & nuts (not sure if there's enough room to put real studs in from the back side) to attach the correct type of puller. If you can't get the nubs out, drill more holes into the hub flange halfway between the broken studs and then use the grade 8 bolts & nuts.
              Mike Sal


              • #8
                Your first mistake was not asking the right question here before you destroyed good parts. Now you have gone and greatly increased the work you have to do. Step One: order a good used rear hub and drum assembly from one of our vendors. Left or right doesn't matter. Make sure you get lug nuts for it too, LOL. Step two: get a center punch, and center-punch each busted-off lug nut as close to center as you can manage. Step three: drill through each of the busted studs with progressively larger drills. Once nothing is left but a thin shell, the stubs will punch out easily. Step four: obtain a three or four foot length of steel angle stock, say 2" by 2" by 3/16" thick, and drill a pair of half-inch holes in it spaced to match adjacent holes in the hub, and bolt it to the hub using half-inch bolts and nuts, with the free end of the bar resting on the ground ahead of the axle. Tightly. This is your reaction lever to hold the axle from turning when you wrench on the center nut. You will need it even if you use an air impact wrench to bust the center nut loose. Step five: pull the cotter pin on the big castle nut, spray the nut and exposed threads with good penetrating oil, and use a socket and big breaker bar to loosen the nut. That one IS right-hand thread. Wrench the nut right off, and then on and off again a couple of time to clean any rust off the threads. Step six: place the castle nut on the axle backwards (notches facing in), and thread it on until it is flush with the end of the axle. This important to protect the end of the axle from being deformed in the next step. Step seven: obtain the proper HUB puller, and fit it to the flange of the hub using half-inch nuts and bolts, and tighten securely. The proper puller is made of heavy forged steel, has a finely threaded puller screw nearly an inch in diameter, with three or more legs hooked onto a disc with a raised round edge bearing a notch. I'm sure you will find an illustration in one of the links above. AFAIK, Harbor Freight does not sell such a tool. A good auto parts store should have a rental or loaner. The puller screw will have a "striking wrench" fitted to it, that has knobs on the end that you strike with hammer to tighten the screw. And you will have to hammer on it a lot. When it seems it won't advance with further hammer blows to the striking wrench, give the end of the puller screw 2 or 3 solid whacks with a one-pound hammer. That may pop the hub free. If not, more whacks on the striking wrench, then more whacks on the puller screw. Eventually, the hub will pop free. They always do, if you put enough muscle in it. Once the old hub is off, that replacement drum and hub you ordered can be slipped on there, and the castle nut tightened to secure it. I usually remove the key, slip the hub on the axle, line up the keyways, and tap the key in from the end, narrow end first.

                And you need to get a shop manual. If you had had a shop manual, and read it, you would have avoided this problem altogether.
                Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands


                • #9
                  The only other thing to add is a warning to NOT add any lubrication to the axle or new brake drum when you put it back together. Also, let the Key stick out a little as you push the brake drum on so that it doesn't jam up at the back before the drum gets all the way seated.
                  good luck,
                  Mike Sal


                  • #10
                    Don't sweat it, I did exactly the same thing. You however broke my record, I only broke 4....

                    YOU must replace that hub and drum. by not using the right puller, it's probably deformed. I'd count on it.

                    Also, put right hand studs back in, so the first 19yo kid with an air wrench that's set to "Semi Truck" doesn't break them off again.



                    • #11
                      All left hand threaded wheel studs that I've ever seen has a "L" stamped in the end of it as a reminder.
                      Roger W. List
                      Proud Studebaker Owner


                      • #12
                        You're right Roger, however I was 19 when I broke my 4, and didn't have sense enough then to read the end of a lug stud. I'm guessing 19yo kids now don't either. That's if you can find one that's not too busy playing XBOX to change a tire.