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Ignition resistor bypass

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  • Electrical: Ignition resistor bypass

    1961 Hawk. My coil has an internal resistor (original? ). There is no bypass connected (it's been this way since I got the car in '09). Can I hook the "R" post on the solenoid to the coil or do I not need it? Thanks. -Jim

  • #2
    If your Hawk has been running fine for the 10 years you've had it why mess with it?


    • #3
      That would be the "I" (Ignition) Terminal on the Solenoid.
      If your Hawk has not been hard starting it may be OK as is, all it does is give full 12 Volts to the Points for easier starting. It should be a Grn/Blk. wire to the Coil.

      Your car came with a Pink Resistance wire from the Coil to the Ign. Sw. and a NON-Resistance Coil. If you are still running that Pink wire, that Coil may be weakening the current to the points.

      Sometimes it may be hard to know without some kind of Analytical Equipment, if OK running, is actually GOOD running.
      Meaning; is "as IS" really OK as has been said in Post #2, I can't tell you that from here!
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner


      • #4
        No pink wire. Resister coil (checked voltage ign. on and ign. running). Starts hard when cold, starts good when warmed up, runs very good when warmed up. Might try by-pass wire just to see results, if any. Thanks-Jim


        • #5
          The resistor circuit only cuts in once engine has started. When starting (cranking) a full 12 volts is delivered to the coil to improve starting. Your's is not; you have resistance voltage (about 6v) when cranking. Start with a proper coil. Spend the extra $ for a Delco "for use with an external resistor" coil. You will also need a resistor which is readily available. Now go to the shop manual and wire it up exactly, I say exactly, as it says. Ign to resistor. resistor to coil. Starter solenoid to coil. It will start better with the extra volts ( Just cause it is wrong is no reason to make it right?????)


          • #6
            When cranking you will get power from both the pink resister wire and the green/black full 12 volt "bypass" wire if it's hooked up. Once you stop cranking the green/black wire is open circuit, not connected to anything electricly, and coil power only comes from the pink resister wire.

            I've measured the resistance of the pink wire in my car and it's not enough to make a difference. My GM HEI is powered via that pink wire and has worked just fine for years.

            If you don't have the green/black wire from the solenoid "I" terminal to the coil , don't worry about it, it won't make a difference with the resistor coil anyway. I wouldn't worry about the pink wire with the resister coil unless you are having an issue with burnt points. If you have no resister wire from the ignition switch to the coil, just a plain wire, you're good to go with the resister coil already.