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ballast resistor on a 12V setup...Question

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  • ballast resistor on a 12V setup...Question

    Guys-
    I have a 53 2R11 with a Commander 6 Delco-Remy ign. I have converted to 12v and all is well. Well, except for my Alzheimers I cannot remember WHY I installed a MOPAR-style ceramic resistor in the hot wire for the coil!!
    I faintly recall it was part of an effort to eliminate point pitting... but cannot honestly recall[B)] Anyways, when I wire the coil straight to 12V she starts -now. If I try it through the resistor I installed..the truck is WAAAAAAAAAAAY reluctant to fire. [}]
    Anyone? [^]
    Happy Turkey day,
    dan0 in ND

  • #2
    The resistor saves the points,yes. A full battery voltage should also go to the ignition during cranking though,to aid starting.

    Oglesby,Il.
    "Studebaker? It must be hard to find parts for those!"
    Oglesby,Il.

    Comment


    • #3
      [As in,a second wire from the start terminal on the solenoid,so it only gets full voltage when you are turning the key to the 'start' position.] Sorry I can't edit my posts,due to log on problem...

      Oglesby,Il.
      "Studebaker? It must be hard to find parts for those!"
      Oglesby,Il.

      Comment


      • #4
        the reason you have a ballast in there is that if you inadvertantly leave the key on with the points closed it will burn up either the points or the coil on a full 12V... it's there to limit the current through the coil. MoPar ballasts are known to fail pretty regularly, just replace it and like the previous poster said, add a bypass wire from the starter solenoid to the coil if you haven't done so already, that will help with cold starting

        nate

        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel
        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel

        Comment


        • #5
          In your conversion from 6 to 12 volt, you must change to a 12 volt starter solenoid. It (the 12 v Solenoid) has four terminals, one from the battery, heavy, one to the starter, heavy, one from the ignition switch, light, and one to the coil, light. This last one supplies 12 volts to the coil only while the ignition switch is turned 'way over to start the car. When you release the key, there is a wire from the accessory terminal to the ballast that then powers the coil/distributor. I know, this has been said before, but if you didn't understand, maybe this will help.

          [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
          Tom Bredehoft
          '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
          '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
          (Under Construction 564 hrs.)
          '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
          All Indiana built cars

          Comment


          • #6
            Guys-
            I'm using a push-button to engage the starter.
            Now, I do not follow ya'll on how to wire this thing with a hot/bypass wire to the coil... I am using the common Ford starter sol.
            I have the key wired to provide volts to the ign. The key does not have the start function -its the original.
            A bit more advice on this 'bypass' wire, please.
            Me smells turkey

            Comment


            • #7
              The common firewall mounted solenoid switch has four terminals, two large and two small. The large ones connect to the battery and starter, respectively. Your starter button would be connected to one of the smaller terminals.

              When you press the starter button, it applies 12V to the solenoid coil, closing the switch between the battery and the starter. At the same time, the switch applies 12V to the other small terminal. This is the terminal that you want to connect directly to your coil (on the same coil terminal where your ballast resistor is connected now).

              When the solenoid is pulled in during cranking, the coil will get a full 12V resulting in a hotter spark to assist in starting. When you release the starter button, the solenoid drops out, and the 12V to the small terminal is turned off. The coil will then get only the reduced voltage through the ballast resistor.

              Hope this helps.

              Jim Bradley
              Lewistown PA
              '78 Avanti II
              Jim Bradley
              Lake Monticello, VA
              '78 Avanti II
              sigpic

              Comment


              • #8
                Rerun-
                Do I need to utilize the other connection on this solenoid?
                I do have just one of these two smaller terms in use now..
                It sure makes a difference when she gets the full 12v to the coil.
                Do either of the two smaller terms on this solenoid stay 'hot' at a reduced voltage after engine startup?
                dan

                Comment


                • #9
                  I thought Jim did a great description of the 4 terminals, but I'll give it a try...





                  Two BIG terminals.

                  One is in from the battery and the other is out to the starter. Both heavy cables.



                  Two small terminals

                  One (generally marked "S") is the "trigger" from your starter push button. When you push the starter button, this provides 12V to this terminal which then closes the connection between the battery terminal and the starter terminal on the solenoid and makes the starter spin.

                  The other (generally marked "I") provides 12V to the coil ONLY when the connection between the battery terminal and the starter terminal on the solenoid is closed. In other words, ONLY when you push the starter button. You should have a wire running from this terminal directly to the same side of the coil that the wire from your ballast resistor is attached to. This terminal is "dead" at all times OTHER than when the starter button is pushed.



                  Dick Steinkamp
                  Bellingham, WA

                  [IMG][/IMG]

                  Dick Steinkamp
                  Bellingham, WA

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    quoteo either of the two smaller terms on this solenoid stay 'hot' at a reduced voltage after engine startup?
                    dan
                    Actually, yes. Since the second small("I") terminal is connected to the coil at the same point as the ballast resistor, it will remain at the reduced ignition voltage as long as the key is on. This "backfeed" is not a problem as the terminal is isolated when the solenoid is not energized.

                    Jim Bradley
                    Lewistown PA
                    '78 Avanti II
                    Jim Bradley
                    Lake Monticello, VA
                    '78 Avanti II
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      While on the subject with remote starters and where to hook em up.....
                      I have a modfied remote starter from the days of setting points(still quite useful though). I say modified because of this:

                      I hooked the clips to close the circuit one time to set the points. The clips instead of the S and the I, went to the heavy cable battery terminals on the side of the solenoid. Well you can guess what happened next. While it closed the circuit it also drew a very heavy pull, melting the tiny connection at the bottom of the switch. Nothing serious except it melted the rubber grip under the switch, which I had to pull apart and repair so I could use the switch. Luckily I was still able to use the remote starter after repairing the grip.
                      Therefore:

                      Do Not Clip To The Large Heavy Battery Cables or Battery Terminals Together!! You May Need To Replace A Remote Starter Or Worse!!


                      [img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201950%202r5%20Studebaker%20Pickup%20with%20turbocharger/P1000137-1.jpg[/img=left]
                      [img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00005.jpg?t=1171153370[/img=right]
                      [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
                      1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                      1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                      1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                      1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Got it, guys.
                        Thank you for your patience and great replies!
                        dan0

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          As n8n says these resistors were known to fail,so,back in the day,whenever I had a Mopar car,the first thing I'd do was buy a spare resistor and put it in the glovebox.The one in use always seems to last longer when you have a spare! Seriously,when one goes bad on the road,you have a spare to quickly change out,and you're back on the road.

                          Oglesby,Il.
                          "Studebaker? It must be hard to find parts for those!"
                          Oglesby,Il.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            any idea of a good p/n for one of these resistors?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              This post is very interesting to me as I amy in the process of replacing the points in my 63 Hawk to a Pertronis Ignitor. In this install. the ballast is removed, and the coil is replaced with a hotter type. It shows the wire from the switch Ign. terminal and not the accessory terminal as per Tom B post. Would it be diff. in my case?

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