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HEELLPPPP!

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  • HEELLPPPP!

    Well, I decided to check the brakes on the 64 Dayatona tonight. The good news-they are all like new. The bad news? The right rear hub castle nut is toast-completely stripped and the hub threads don't look the greatest. Does anyone on here happen to have a good used nut and possibly a hub? I'm in a bit of a jam as the car is stuck on the hoist at work[xx(]. I might be able to clean up the threads on the hub but the nut is long gone. Perhaps someone near Ingersoll would have one?? It's a Dana 27 tapered style..(I HATE THESE AXLES!)
    Thanks!
    Todd


    63 Lark 2dr Sedan
    64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

  • #2
    I have some BRAND NEW nuts that I picked up at a swap meet, the only problem is that the hex size is slightly larger than stock. LMK if you can't find any by the weekend (won't be able to get my hands on them before then)

    When you say "the hub threads don't look the greatest" I assume you actually mean the end of the axle? you can get a die for the threads, but you only get one shot at it - if you cross thread it it's new axle time so be careful.

    clean everything well, install hub dry, taper on key goes down and in, torque to spec... um... that's about it.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks guys. There's a couple of local guys who are into Studebakers (Don Simmons is one who has been a fantastic help in the past) but wouldn't ya know it, they aren't home tonight. SASCO shows the nuts in stock so worse case I could overnight one by Purolator. That would make it about a $50 nut....

      Todd


      63 Lark 2dr Sedan
      64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

      Comment


      • #4
        quote:Originally posted by tstclr

        Well, I decided to check the brakes on the 64 Dayatona tonight. The good news-they are all like new. The bad news? The right rear hub castle nut is toast-completely stripped and the hub threads don't look the greatest. Does anyone on here happen to have a good used nut and possibly a hub? I'm in a bit of a jam as the car is stuck on the hoist at work[xx(]. I might be able to clean up the threads on the hub but the nut is long gone. Perhaps someone near Ingersoll would have one?? It's a Dana 27 tapered style..(I HATE THESE AXLES!)
        Thanks!
        Todd


        63 Lark 2dr Sedan
        64 Daytona 4dr Sedan
        Todd,

        You can get thread restorer files at a good industrial supply house. Does Ingersoll have a House of Tools, or a Busy Bee Machine Tools? I've had good luck with careful use of a thread restorer file on bodged axle threads.

        I probably have a spare 27 axle shaft or two around here. I could throw one on the Greyhound, and you'd get it in a couple of days. If you want one, let me know ASAP, as I plan to go to Vancouver for a few days.

        Did you take the nut off and reverse it before using the drum puller?

        Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
        Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks Gord,
          I should know by this afternoon if I can't get what I need locally. Ingersoll is a pretty small town and we don't have much as far as machine shops or suppliers. I still need to dig up the proper die for the axle too. Here's a novice question: If I had to, would a standard nut work if I notched it for the cotter pin?

          Todd


          63 Lark 2dr Sedan
          64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

          Comment


          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by tstclr

            Thanks Gord,
            I should know by this afternoon if I can't get what I need locally. Ingersoll is a pretty small town and we don't have much as far as machine shops or suppliers. I still need to dig up the proper die for the axle too. Here's a novice question: If I had to, would a standard nut work if I notched it for the cotter pin?

            Todd


            63 Lark 2dr Sedan
            64 Daytona 4dr Sedan
            Castellated nuts are usually deeper than a standard nut. Slot a standard nut, and you won't have very many continuous threads left.

            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

            Comment


            • #7
              I'm sure I have a castle nut(new) around here,give me a day to look.
              I know for sure I have a new axle in the garage with no bearing on it.I also have a thread chaser for cleaning up damaged threads that I purchased at a industrial tool supply house,I believe it cost about $15-20.but take a good nut with U so they can give U the right one.
              I'm in Hamilton,you took all my old TW for the cost of postage.Will post latter if I get a chance to look.----Kevin

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the offer Kevin. We got it all ironed out. A huge thanks to Don at Silvertone Exhaust for providing me with the correct nut (which he happened to buy at Omaha this year!). One of our techs had a thread chaser and cleaned up the axle. I'm relieved that it's fixed. Tonight I replaced the leaking lower rad hose, fixed a fuel line, replaced some bulbs and let her run for about 20 minutes. She really runs on after she is shut down. Probably a mix of poor gas, carbon and maybe the timing needs adjusting. Speaking of bulbs, I purchased a set of LED bulbs that replace standard 1157 bulbs. They work quite well and should last a long time. They draw less current as well. The master cylinder should be in Monday and we'll be good to go.

                Todd

                63 Lark 2dr Sedan
                64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

                Comment


                • #9
                  quote:Speaking of bulbs, I purchased a set of LED bulbs that replace standard 1157 bulbs. They work quite well and should last a long time. They draw less current as well.
                  Todd - this is off topic, but tell me more about the LED replacement bulbs. I want some. Do you have the brand and part number? Thanks. Dale

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I don't remember the name brand as I have since tossed out the packages. I picked them up at a store we have here in Canada called "Princess Auto" which is a lot like your Harbour Frieght. They were only $6 each(on sale-reg $10) . They were available in amber, red or clear (clear cost more $). I thought they'd be much brighter than they are (they are about the same as a standard bulb) however they won't burn out, run cooler and use less energy.
                    Todd


                    63 Lark 2dr Sedan
                    64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      quote:Originally posted by tstclr

                      I don't remember the name brand as I have since tossed out the packages. I picked them up at a store we have here in Canada called "Princess Auto" which is a lot like your Harbour Frieght. They were only $6 each(on sale-reg $10) . They were available in amber, red or clear (clear cost more $). I thought they'd be much brighter than they are (they are about the same as a standard bulb) however they won't burn out, run cooler and use less energy.
                      Todd
                      Thanks Todd. I am disappointed to find that they are not brighter but running cooler will definitely help. I put an additional socket with 1157 bulb in each tail light housing on my '64 Cruiser many years ago to get brighter tail lights and brake lights. It helped, but the heat from the extra bulb is too much. Both have melted a tiny hole in the tail light lens. So, I am still looking for a brighter alternative to stock but without the heat. Dale

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        A couple of years ago I did an LED conversion on the yellow truck.
                        http://rides.webshots.com/album/54792831KPkAjw?start=0
                        The fronts were great (if you don't mind the 'off yellow' color).
                        The rear LED's were not bright enough.


                        Running Lights


                        Brake Lights

                        Tried a couple manufacturers and ended up removing them and putting halogen bulbs in the back. Halogens were definitely bright enough, but might bring lens problems due to heat. Also be aware that if you do run 'all' LED's, you will need to change over to an electronic flasher. The old bi-metal strip flashers will not trip with an LED bulb as there is not enough current draw to heat up the bimetal strip to trip the flasher.
                        Hope the info helps...
                        Jeff[8D]


                        quote:Originally posted by blackhawk

                        quote:Speaking of bulbs, I purchased a set of LED bulbs that replace standard 1157 bulbs. They work quite well and should last a long time. They draw less current as well.
                        Todd - this is off topic, but tell me more about the LED replacement bulbs. I want some. Do you have the brand and part number? Thanks. Dale


                        DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
                        Brooklet, Georgia
                        '37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
                        '37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
                        '61 Hawk (project)
                        http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

                        HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                        Jeff


                        Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                        Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Wouldn't the answer be to add more LEDs?

                          I've seen them done by different mfgrs, and they all seemed like they just put in enough individual lights to make the brightness desired.

                          Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
                          Parish, central NY 13131
                          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            The bulbs I purchased had 9 LEDs. I dont think there would be much room for more. I'm sure there are brighter LED's out there. Cadillac has some pretty bright LED's on their cars. Jeff, thanks for the heads up about the flasher. With just the LED's in the rear, I did notice a small delay before the flasher kicked in. I do need to get halogen headlights as well.
                            Todd


                            63 Lark 2dr Sedan
                            64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              quote:The fronts were great (if you don't mind the 'off yellow' color).
                              The rear LED's were not bright enough. Tried a couple manufacturers and ended up removing them and putting halogen bulbs in the back. Halogens were definitely bright enough, but might bring lens problems due to heat. DEEPNHOCK
                              Jeff - thanks for all the great photos of your LED installation! I guess for now I will put in Halogen 1157 bulbs. I did not know there was such a thing. That will help a lot and if I only replace the bulbs in the original sockets, I should not have a heat problem. The second socket that I added in each housing put the bulb closer to the lens and that caused the lens melting problem. Maybe some others will post more about the LED possibilities and provide a better (brighter) solution than the Halogen 1157 bulbs. Dale

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