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  • R2 Fuel Pump

    I am building a supercharged 259 this winter and thinking about fuel delivery. I plan on running about 7-9 lbs of boost. Will the R2 fuel pump be able to keep up? I was thinking I may need to go electric and have a regulator that references boost pressure to raise the fuel pressure. Anybody have any thoughts??

    Dan Giblin
    Cincinnati, OH
    Dan Giblin
    Cincinnati, OH

  • #2
    Dan,
    I am building a supercharged 259 this winter also. How are you going to get 7-9 lbs. of boost?A sn-70 SC with regular pulleys will get 5-6 lbs. I just got the high output SC pulley from LS and was going to use it on my 59 289,but I think the belt is going to slip and hold at 6 lbs. I would be interested in your plan.
    joe

    1959 HARDTOP R2 clone
    1960 conv
    SDC member since 1972
    1959 HARDTOP R2 4speed
    1960 conv R2 auto
    SDC member since 1972
    http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff21/59r2/DSC01514-3.jpg

    Comment


    • #3
      I have a Vortech V1 sc. From what I hear it should be able to produce about 15 maybe more lbs, depending on head and intake flow, also with the right pulleys. I also have a 10 rib micro v belt that has about 5 times the surface area as a regular belt. It shouldn't slip at all. I think it is about 1.25" wide

      Do you plan on using a stock R2 fuel pump?

      What size carb are you thinking about using? Also carb bonnet or air box?

      Dan Giblin
      Cincinnati, OH
      Dan Giblin
      Cincinnati, OH

      Comment


      • #4
        The R 2 pump should do fine with the boost reference. If you want a little extra insurance, you could get the Carter M61147 pump that is for small block Mopars and bend the arm, rotate the diaphram, and tap the top of the diaphram housing for the boost reference. These pumps are rated at 6-8 psi and 172 gph.

        Ted

        quote:Originally posted by gibbsr1

        I am building a supercharged 259 this winter and thinking about fuel delivery. I plan on running about 7-9 lbs of boost. Will the R2 fuel pump be able to keep up? I was thinking I may need to go electric and have a regulator that references boost pressure to raise the fuel pressure. Anybody have any thoughts??

        Dan Giblin
        Cincinnati, OH

        Comment


        • #5
          I agree with Ted. I would also like to add depends on what you want to do with it. We have two different systems; the one we have on the Avanti is stock, and we haven't had much of a problem(if any) with boost reference with it. We also have one on the Lark, but that's a full electric system. The Lark is also used everyday, and has never had much of a problem, although a couple of the components could probably be upgraded to better items. The Lark has a high flow, high pressure Holley pump that will put out 30 lbs of pressure or so, which runs into one of those simple three port(In, Out, Return) Holley regulators, and is turned down to about 7 lbs. The regulator has been modified at the top for a reference line on the topside of the diaphragm. The system also contains two gauges at the regulator to see what's going in and whats coming out. This was a big help when my first electric pump went, as it showed the higher the car revved, the lower the pressure into the regulator went, which indicated the vains in the pump had gone out. The mechanical pump is not present on the car, only has a block off plate at the spot where the pump should be.

          I would say for an electric to get the four port Mallory unit as it has the reference line already added in. The Holley had to be modified to accomodate the reference line. Be prepared to do a little engineering, and keep a fire extinguisher and a good eye on any leaks that erupt from the line. I've never had any situation with a fire, but a good leak down the road with the high pressure unit will dump the tank in no time. Of course, keep the lines away from any moving, hot, or rubbing areas, particularly if there's any rubber in the lines. I would also add a filter in before the pump, midway in the line between the regulator, and maybe one in the return. Any sort of coarse sediment that gets in the electric pump will shred the vains and destroy the pump in a short amount of time.


          [img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201950%202r5%20Studebaker%20Pickup%20with%20turbocharger/P1000137-1.jpg[/img=left]
          [img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00005.jpg?t=1171153370[/img=right]
          [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
          1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
          1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
          1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
          1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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          • #6
            Dan,
            I am having dave tbo build me a afb sealed r-2 clone carb ,which comes with the tag and is next to impossible to tell from the stock r-2.The carb is rebuilt and works great on the 289,the only thing I had to do to it was increase the accel pump travel for a bigger squirt. I didn't have a core for him to rebuild so it costs about 425.00 plus shipping.I would suggest you contact Dick datson for
            his book on "THE STUDEBAKER EXTREME DUTY ENGINE BOOK"
            http://www.gatorsuperchargers.net/
            These books are a must have for guys like us doing engines like these.The booket contains alot of the stuff Ted has done ,and you might change to turbo charging to get your high boost easier than making the pulleys for your wide belts. I am going with the stock super Lark -Hawk set up because of space limits in my 60conv.Please keep me informed on your progress. The motor heads at
            http://racingstudebakers.com/stl-web...n/bb/index.php
            have alot of info and you can find just about anything about SC -259's.

            1959 HARDTOP R2 clone
            1960 conv
            SDC member since 1972
            1959 HARDTOP R2 4speed
            1960 conv R2 auto
            SDC member since 1972
            http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff21/59r2/DSC01514-3.jpg

            Comment


            • #7
              Does the M61147 Chrysler pump have as large a diaphragm as the Stude "R" pump? The M6270, that I'm familiar with, is a smaller diameter. I think any increase in fuel delivery from the smaller pump must be due to the valve body. The Chrysler bodies have three valves; one more inlet valve than the Stude's. The outlet port is larger, too.
              Three valve bodies from high performance Chevy pumps are the same diameter as the "R" pumps; and look like they will bolt right on. That should make an "R" pump "pass more gas"!
              Mike M.

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              • #8
                Never had any problems feeding the Twins R4 set up with one.

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                • #9
                  Thanks for the input guys. I'll stick with the R2 pump.

                  Dan Giblin
                  Cincinnati, OH
                  Dan Giblin
                  Cincinnati, OH

                  Comment

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