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Stud remover

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  • Stud remover

    Recently, I broke one of the studs that goes from the exhaust manifold through the heat riser and exhaust pipe. Rather than having to take off the manifold and drill it out, a buddy of mine suggested I try this...


    I didn't really know there was such a thing as a stud remover and to be honest, even though he let me borrow it, my buddy didn't think it would actually work... Especially how everything under there seemed to be fused together. We had to hit and pry the heat riser just to get it off of there.

    Anyway, after multiple applications of PB Blaster and sheer stubbornness and determination, I got the stud out with this tool this afternoon. Just thought I'd post to give it props.



    [img=left]http://www.bulletshots.net/images/stella3.jpg[/img=left]1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
    www.bulletshots.net
    www.bulletshots.net/blog
    www.alabamastudes.com


  • #2
    Glad to hear yuo were successful

    GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

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    • #3
      Yeah that's a great tool! But I've never gotten a stud out without heating the cast iron cherry red, then quickly grabbing it with the tool and turning

      Usually they're broken off flush; so I've gotten pretty good at blowing them out with a torch without hurting the threads [8D]

      Nice job! I've got to try PB more often...

      Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
      Parish, central NY 13131
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

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      • #4
        How do you do that? (blow out the stud) I've seen it done but the one time I tried it I just made an unholy mess of what was previously a decent looking manifold. I'm sure there's a technique, I just don't know it.

        nate

        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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        • #5
          Sure am glad I didn't break it off flush![] Also glad SASCO had a replacement kit of studs, washers, and brass nuts specifically for this.



          [img=left]http://www.bulletshots.net/images/stella3.jpg[/img=left]1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
          www.bulletshots.net
          www.bulletshots.net/blog
          www.alabamastudes.com

          Comment


          • #6
            Those stud removers are great.
            Only problem is, they only make it for 3/8" and up stud diametetrs. If you use them on 5/16" studs. it's about 40/60 that the stud will get stuck in the remover tool (it get's on top of the lobe, and won't rock back out)...

            As far as a good trick to try Nate...
            Heat the part up (exhaust manifold, for instance) and then place it in a vice so the stud is pointing straight up. Then hold a candle to the stud (an unlit candle for you engineer types ). The parafin will cool down the stud and wick it into the thread area. Then you can remove it easier. Just heating the part will also heat the stud, and except for it all being hot, the relationship for the threaded rod to the threaded hole remained fairly static. Cooling the stud first will open up that relationship a bit.
            Just a thought..
            Jeff[8D]



            quote:Originally posted by N8N

            How do you do that? (blow out the stud) I've seen it done but the one time I tried it I just made an unholy mess of what was previously a decent looking manifold. I'm sure there's a technique, I just don't know it.
            nate


            DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
            Brooklet, Georgia
            '37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
            '37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
            '61 Hawk (project)
            http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

            HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

            Jeff


            Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



            Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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            • #7
              Jeff, I've actually done that before, when I didn't have access to an oxyacetylene torch. heated manifold with oxy-mapp torch, dripped candle wax down the threads, slapped ice cube on stud, removed stud. Got all but one (of six) studs out of a dual-outlet VW exhaust manifold that way. (oh, yeah, Ron, that car I sold you was backdated to the early, good exhaust manifold, too.)

              nate

              --
              55 Commander Starlight
              http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
              --
              55 Commander Starlight
              http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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              • #8
                If anyones interested in hi quality stud removers...check out "real shop" tools catalogs. There is a stud remover that works like a "collet" on a chucker or machine tool lathe. They come in sizes from about 3/16" to about 3/4" diameters.

                I've had to use them in some heads I ported for people. "Can you get that out while your at it?" What a pain!
                But they work VERY well, without damaging the stud with knurl marks.

                Mike

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                • #9
                  quote:Originally posted by N8N

                  How do you do that? (blow out the stud) I've seen it done but the one time I tried it I just made an unholy mess of what was previously a decent looking manifold. I'm sure there's a technique, I just don't know it.

                  nate

                  --
                  55 Commander Starlight
                  http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
                  The whole key is that the steel stud melts at a lower temperature than cast iron... so the trick is to get the stud melted and blown out before the manifold melts...

                  What I do is, put the tip to the stud... after a few seconds keep tapping the oxy lever... as the steel just starts to melt you'll blow it out about 1/4" at a time... as some melts, keep blowing it away till it stops, then pause for a sec or 2 and hit the oxy again; repeat till you're through. After you're through, you can carefully clean the hole out by pointing the tip in and tapping the oxy; of course you have to be extra careful with the heat at this point...

                  Of course, this takes some practice, and is all about heat control... when done correctly, you can see all the threads, and just a quick chase with a tap, and you're good as new! I saw this done maybe 25 years ago at the local chain muffler shop; then I went home and practiced on a bunch of junk engines... I can get it maybe 90%+ of the time; once in a while I'll ding the threads out a little, but have always been able to fix it up... I definitely prefer this to drilling and tapping!

                  Of course, it's better if there's enough sticking out to get at least a vice grip on; heat the cast cherry red, NOT the stud, then quickly clamp on the vice grips , starting by just turning slightly in both directions... remove the vice grips, reheat, and work it some more, till you get it out- remember: Patience!

                  Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
                  Parish, central NY 13131
                  http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

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