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Paint for a frame

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  • Paint for a frame

    Working on the 60 Lark frame (body off) and wondering what you all recommend for paint? Don't care about "show correct"- just want to make it nice since the body's off it...

    What have you used?

    Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
    Parish, central NY 13131
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1


  • #2
    Bams,I usually use Rustoleum red oxide primer and then coat it with satin black or semi gloss Rustoleum, seems to hold up well.I did My Gt Hawk this way in the early 90's and still cleans up well as if it was done in the last few months. Brushing would be more economical then rattle cans, have used both.
    Frank van Doorn
    Omaha, Ne.
    1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
    1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
    1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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    • #3
      Rustoleum is a poor choice anymore. They used to make pretty good paint, but in the last 5 years or so they have cheapened it to the point of being (insert profane word) junk.

      I have pictures I can email of what the "new" rustoleum paint looks like in a couple years its not pretty.

      I'd reccommend using an automotive epoxy paint ($200/gal), but if that's too rich for your blood, get a gallon of Valspar Zinc base primer, and a gallon of Valspar tractor gloss black. Run hardener in both and it will never come off. The valspar paints run $25-35/gallon, but don't think because it costs less its poor quality.

      Kent

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      • #4
        What about POR-15? Also, I've seen spray-on "rust convertor" that claims to be a matter of just spraying on and topcoating with any paint; makes me a little skeptical...

        Who sells Valspar in the East? Is it a Home Depot-type thing, or automotive?

        The frame I have is super-clean; no scale, and just the lightest surface rust... being that nice, I want to do it up right! I'm just going to degrease, go over it with a wire cup brush, and paint it...

        Thank you for any advice/experience you can share on this [^]

        Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
        Parish, central NY 13131
        http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

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        • #5
          I think POR 15 is the only way to go. I have all the underneath of my Studes done with it. I just take a power washer about once a year and clean the bottom and it looks like new. Just don't buy any more than you are going to use. After you open it it don't keep very long it will set up in the can

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          • #6
            Valspar paints can be bought at most farm-supply stores including the national chain TSC (tractor supply company).

            Kent

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            • #7
              Having researched POR-15 I don't think I want to spend that money and effort for the frame- although I'm going to do the floors with it.

              So far, I'm thinking Acrylic Urethane with hardener; but am still researching this...

              Any further info or opinion is appreciated!

              Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
              Parish, central NY 13131
              http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

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              • #8
                I would not use anything but POR-15.
                It actually hardens with moisture.
                A painted frame can be hit with a hammer with no effect on the paint.
                And it flows out to what looks almost spray painted.
                Everything under my 37 was done with it.
                It looks as good today as when I did it 7 years ago.

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                • #9
                  Since I "inherited" a farm 2 years ago, removing rust and preventing rust in heavily abrating use has been a topic of major interest. I have been amazed at the high quality of TRACTOR PAINTS. My favorite is Van Sickle. This paint has an astonishing amount of "solids" and shrugs off scratches and abrasions that would destroy your common auto paint. DO NOT forget the hardener! Easy to get at most Tractor Stores and Paint stores that specialize in heavy duty paints. Also, P&R Supply is running a remarkable sale at http://pandrsupply.com/default.aspx I got the "silver axle" bug, and I am using VanSycle Aluminum Tractor for the undercarriage. Easier to clean, and very easy to trace oil leaks!
                  quote:Originally posted by bams50

                  Working on the 60 Lark frame (body off) and wondering what you all recommend for paint? Don't care about "show correct"- just want to make it nice since the body's off it...

                  What have you used?

                  Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
                  Parish, central NY 13131
                  http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1




                  Terry, North Texas
                  1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065
                  (in stage 1 resto "Project A")
                  http://sterkel.org/avanti
                  1985 Kubota L2202(Diesel)
                  2000 VW Jetta GLS
                  1999 Toyota rice burner

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                  • #10
                    Tractor paint is fantastic.Painted a few cars too and it will buff and shine fairly well.
                    Mono mind in a stereo world

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                    • #11
                      I agree that POR is the only way to go. Just make sure you wear gloves and have adequate ventilation. You don't need to worry about top coating it since it wont be in direct sunlight. You can get it in gloss and semi gloss black as well. I suppose if someone had the ambition they could buy a nice cheap solid southern 4 door Stude, coat the frame, floors, trunk, and inside of the fenders with POR and drive it all the time in the salt belt and it would last forever.
                      Todd


                      63 Lark 2dr Sedan
                      64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

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                      • #12
                        Unlike some others on here that have had good luck with por15, I have had a very bad experience with it after following the instructions to a T. It started lifting in sheets after 6-8 months. The surface had been perfectly prepared before painting.
                        I have used a product called Picklex 20 over rust and then used epoxy primer over that before finising with a catalized urathane black or whatever, but this is sprayed on not brushed.
                        I use an epoxy primer made by http://www.midwestchemicals.com/DP48LF-DP402LF.htm with very good results. Very good price. You can get it tinted in most any shade and this will enable you to use less top coat to cover. This is also a great primer to use as a first coat on the body before using filler or sanding primer.
                        also have used Zero Rust (not catalized) as a top coat on chassis with good results.
                        http://www.picklex20.com/
                        Rust bullet I have used and it is much like Por15 at a better price.
                        64 Champ long bed V8
                        55/53 Studebaker President S/R
                        53 Hudson Super Wasp Coupe

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                        • #13
                          I used NAPA chassis black. It comes in rattle cans or quarts/gallons for spraying, seems to hold up well here in Arizona, and is relatively cheap.

                          jj

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                          • #14
                            I'll back up what 63Avanti said, I really like Van Sickle paint. Goes on good and I've found it doesn't sag as easily as brand name automotive paints at three times the price. Maybe that has more to do with my painting expertise though....... If you do a good job of priming and wet sanding, it looks great if you want a solid color. In fact, I've painted over old rusty pipe gates that had nothing more than a light wire brushing and the stuff is still on there.

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