Band adjustment on a 1956 Flightomatic

[Rerun]

quote:Many years ago while overhauling my 1st powershift trans, a major rebuider of trans (shipped them all over the world) recommended that I set the rear band adjustment at 1 turn rather that 1.5 turns to limit the servo motion and keep the servo piston from contacting the cylinder wall. For what it's worth. Comments?

The difference of a half turn would equate to 1/32". The band adjustment is moving the anchor end of the band to set the clearance between the band and drum. Adjusting 1/32" tighter on the screw will result in reducing the band to drum total clearance by about 0.010" (0.020" vs 0.030").

There is a spring in the servo that returns the piston to the "home" position. So, by backing off 1 turn vs 1-1/2 turn, you are reducing the required stroke of the servo. I don't understand the concern about the piston hitting the wall of the servo. Unless the bearings are bad, the only part of the piston that touches the wall is the O-ring. Maybe his concern was the servo reaching the end of its stroke if the band was too loose. I can't see that happening either, unless the band were way loose.

Being too tight on the adjustment could cause premature wear on the band. I think that I would stay with the 1-1/2 turn adjustment called out in the shop manual.

Jim Bradley
Lewistown PA
'64 Daytona HT "Rerun"
'78 Avanti II

[WCP]

Many years ago while overhauling my 1st powershift trans, a major rebuider of trans (shipped them all over the world) recommended that I set the rear band adjustment at 1 turn rather that 1.5 turns to limit the servo motion and keep the servo piston from contacting the cylinder wall. For what it's worth. Comments?

[brngarage]

Thanks again. What a great group!

[64V-K7]

This should resolve all the questions... I put the entire FOM section of the Motor's Manual 1953-1960 online
http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/...m/mm60FOM.html

Bob Johnstone

http://www.studebaker-info.org
55 President State Sedan
64 GT Hawk
70 Avanti (R3)

[Dan Timberlake]

Vienna blue 1954-1963 Chilton's Auto Repair Manual (1971) reprint. page 906.
The "TO ADJUST ANY BAND" instruction is for Studebaker Automatic drive transmission thru 1955.

Going to the Fordomatic, Turbo-drive, Flashomatic section there is reference to the Studebaker Flightomatic.
That section does spec 1/4 inch spacer for the front band and 1.5 turns on the rar band

The 1959 factory manual specs backing off the rear band 1 1/2 turns.

The 1959 Edsel manual says band adjustment on the dual-power trans uses a spacer block on the front band, and to back off the rear band 1 1/2 turns

[brngarage]

Thanks again everyone! Ross, sounds like you have the answer. It may be a while before I get this trans into the (1956 Sky Hawk)car, but I'll post the results.

Howard

[Rosstude]

My notes show this.
Front band, loosen jamb nut, place 1/4" spacer (end of my craftsman 9/16" open end wrench is 1/4")between stud and servo piston, and torque to 10 INCH pounds, then back off 1 turn, and lock down.
Rear band, loosen jamb nut, tighten to 10 FOOT pounds, then back off 1 1/2 turn.
I dont have a torque wrench that goes down to 10 inch pounds, so I have just snugged the front adjustment with a 1/4" nut driver handle, 10" lbs is'nt much.
Has worked for me.

[img=left]http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g27/Rosstude/OldWorld2005002.jpg[/img=left]
Ross.
Riverside, Ca.
1957 Provincial X2
1958 Transtar

[Rerun]

quote:"Loosen and back off the lock nut on the adjusting screw of the band to be adjusted quite a way.
Using a short wrench turn the adjusting screw in until it is snug. Back the screw off 4 (four) complete turns. Hold it and tighten the lock nut."

That would make sense for the FRONT band adjustment.

Does the Chilton manual address the rear band? The Studebaker manual says to back the rear band adjustment off 1-1/2 turns after the J-5883 tool overruns. I think that 4 turns would be way too loose.

Jim Bradley
Lewistown PA
'64 Daytona HT "Rerun"
'78 Avanti II

[brngarage]

Thanks everyone!

[Dan Timberlake]

No personal experience. Just reporting what I read.

Vienna blue 1954-1963 Chilton's Auto Repair Manual (1971) reprint. page 906.
TO ADJUST ANY BAND
"Loosen and back off the lock nut on the adjusting screw of the band to be adjusted quite a way.
Using a short wrench turn the adjusting screw in until it is snug. Back the screw off 4 (four) complete turns. Hold it and tighten the lock nut."

If the adjuster screw thread is something-16, then 4 turns = 1/4 inch

[Rerun]

The consensus seems to be that the J tools overrun at about 10 in-lb.

Basically, the rear band adjustment amounts to "snug it up and then back the adjusting screw off 1-1/2 turns". Lock the nut.

The front band adjustment requires a spacer block between the servo and the adjusting screw during the adjustment. I use a piece of 1/4" steel bar stock. Snug up the band with the spacer in place. Remove the spacer. Back the adjusting screw off 1 turn and lock the nut

Jim Bradley
Lewistown PA
'64 Daytona HT "Rerun"

[N8N]

ISTR finding the no-J-tools adjustment method in an old Chilton's or Motor's manual. I don't have the manual though, found it in a friend's garage, so I can't give you the torque specs.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[Studeman]

the original torque spec is 10 inch-pounds....for the bands.
The factory-tools are preset to that amount.


Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[brngarage]

I have the Studebaker factory manual. It refers to two different factory tools; one for the front band and one for the rear. I would like to know if there is a way (thickness guage, etc.) to adjust the bands without these tools since I do not have access to the tools.

Thanks
Howard

[brngarage]

Hi:
Does anyone know how to adjust the bands on above trans. without the Studebaker tools? The transmission is out of the car, so access is not a problem.

Thanks
Howard