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Crank Pulley Hole Dimensions

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  • Eddie
    replied
    Scratch my "gear train" drive idea; can't work. It might have had a chance were the block front flat and the gear train entirely covered by a bolt on housing, but the Stude housing itself is in a large part cast integrally with the block, with the gear recessed into that. Oops.

    Front drive off (and inline) with the cam would be difficult, too. Water pump pulley in the way, and losing that for a direct electric drive would be problematic, you'd still have to have a drive mandrel setup.

    Like the man said, paraphrased, why make this any more difficult than it has too be?

    Ed




    "No matter where you are...there you are!"
    Dr. Buckaroo Bonzai

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  • Eddie
    replied
    I've been lost in the diesel world for the last 20 years, and most of those things have an extensive gear chest at the front; injection, camshaft, and power steering, vacuum, air compressor pumps. Offies 4-holers, Millers, Ford, Novi, STUDE 4-cam V-8s, a lot of bikes, use gear drives as well. It seemed a natural, albeit muy expensivo, way to drive any auxiliaries on a Stude engine since they were already halfway there.

    I was semi-thinkin' about using an external front-drive oil pump, though not a full dry sump (that's a separate fantasy), as well as a modern centrifugal s/c.

    Ed



    "No matter where you are...there you are!"
    Dr. Buckaroo Bonzai

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  • 64Avanti
    replied
    There are drysump pump drives that use the cam drive on SBC's. You could make a drive system that uses the cam gear using a custom front cover.

    What are you thinking of doing?

    the reason that I used the Chevy pattern mandrel was that it is a very common part and I was using a Chevy damper with a custom built hub to mount it on a Studebaker.

    David L

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  • Eddie
    replied
    WOWSERS! Gosh all fishhooks, Mr Wizard!

    Interesting that you went with an SBF flange; I was thumbing through the Summit catalog, saw a picture of the SBF mandrel assembly w/flange, and thought, "hmmmmm".

    Change of subject (OK, thread hijack: Has anyone tried driving the critical accessories via gear of the cam/crank?

    Ed

    "No matter where you are...there you are!"
    Dr. Buckaroo Bonzai

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  • 64Avanti
    replied
    Or you could install a new damper. See the above link to the Studebaker Racing Forum to see what I did.

    David L

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  • Eddie
    replied
    Thanks for the sketches.

    Just an idea...armed with that bolt pattern, an enterprising fellow could make the coupling hub for a front drive mandrel.

    Eddie

    "No matter where you are...there you are"
    Dr. Buckaroo Bonzai

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  • 64Avanti
    replied
    Glad to help.

    Post some pictures of what you are doing.

    You can see some of my Bonneville race car over on the Studebaker racing forum.

    http://racingstudebakers.com/stl-web...pic.php?t=1297

    David L

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  • gibbsr1
    replied
    It's a V-1. I just got the pulley done last night. Now time to figure out how to mount everyting. Thanks for prints, witout those I bet i would have had the hole offset the correct angel, but the wrong way.

    Dan Giblin
    Cincinnati, OH

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  • 64Avanti
    replied
    Which Vortech blower are you using?

    David L

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  • gibbsr1
    replied
    Thanks for the help....I'll definately make the adapter pilot. This should be one neat little 259!!

    Dan Giblin
    Cincinnati, OH

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  • 64Avanti
    replied
    OK here is a sketch of the pulley bolt pattern from the pulley interface side NOT THE DAMPER pattern. The damper pattern is the same but with the 65 and 55 degree measurements reversed.


    I can't get to my drawings of the pulley right now but I measured one of the R3 pulleys. This should be accurate. If you have X,Y corrdinates you can just use some Trig to see if your hole pattern matches. The only possible error would be the one offset hole could be off by 1 degree, but I don't think it is. With the clearance hole size it should be ok in any case. Since you have a pulley I would suggest that you make an adapter that pilots on the damper and the pulley. The below sketch shows the idea. I WOULD NOT attempt to use the bolt pattern to center to pulley to the damper.



    Just machine a pilot hole on your pulley and then make the adapter to fit.


    David L

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  • gibbsr1
    replied
    David, I agree with the pilot but the pulley I have doesn't have an offset in it to allow a machined in pilot. That would be great if you could post a print. I developed a hole pattern on a bridgeport with a direct readout and a .316 drill blank. However, I'd like like to check it against your print just to be sure. Maybe I can ream 2 of the holes and use shoulder bolts to allign it.

    Dan Giblin
    Cincinnati, OH

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  • 64Avanti
    replied
    I posted that other bolt pattern for the flywheel. The best way to make sure the pulley runs straight is to have a pilot on it that fits into the damper, then the holes can be oversize and have no impact on pulley runout. I will post the bolt pattern in a day or so.

    David L

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  • studeski
    replied
    What Ray said. You're making this much too difficult.

    Claude Chmielewski
    Studeski
    http://www.studeski.com
    Fillmore, Wisconsin
    47 M-16 Truck
    62 GT Hawk
    63 Lark
    64 Commander Wagonaire
    50 Champion Regal (parts car)
    [img=left]http://www.studeski.com/62hawk/62hawka/dakota01_250.jpg[/img=left]

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  • N8N
    replied
    I thought that it was posted here before, do a search for it...

    edit: found it, this is what I was thinking of

    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...s=bolt,pattern

    so never mind, unless it is the same as the flywheel bolt pattern (anyone know? I doubt it, as the bolts themselves are smaller IIRC)

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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