UPDATE at last post
I think I came up with my temporary solution, but I wanted to see if there
was any SERIOUS negatives to this direction.
Problem :
I had Bobby turn the two rear hubs, to make sure they were true, & both
where out. One of the hubs showed signs of being beaten and pryed on
with something quite large. Most likely someone without a hub puller. The
passenger side hub went on perfect, with less then .001 runout, the other
side (the one with pry marks) showed .022 runout!! Thats not gonna work.
It also explains my pulsating pedal (though I dont have a clue why I didnt
notice it before, unless the worn pads played a part). I couldnt see how
Bobby could have messed up machining the hub, so I decided to check the
axle to see if it was bent. Unfortunately - it is. The axle is bent about .024
in the same area that would cause the hub to be "out". Normally this is a
reason to buy the flanged axle kit from Fairborn, which I plan to do, but I
can NOT afford it right now. I need to get my bumpers rechromed for the
upcoming show I have labored all year long to enter (win?) I thought of
getting a replacment axle, but I dont even want to spend that money for
something I plan on dumping in a year or so. The axle has been bent for
over 15 years, so I doubt that there is a breakage issue. The pry marks
on the hub are opposite from the direction the axle is bent. It was bent by
someone trying to remove the hub by prying with something huge.
Solution option "A" :
Because I drive the car infrequently, I think that I will see if Bobby can do
a tapered shim that I can put between the hub and the disc. This will allow
me to get the car mobile again, solve the wobble, and spend the least cash
doing so. Then in a year or so, I will buy the Fairborn kit. I KNOW that its
not the "Right" way to fix it, but it will work, and it beats machining the hub
to match the bend (which would make it useless for someone else). If it is
not possible to make the tapered shim, then I might just have him machine
it with forced runout to match the axle bend. One would assume that any
replacement axle, would come with a hub.
Solution option "B" :
My secondary idea is to use shim stock peices of .020 and .010 as washers
at the lug bolts, in between the hub and the rotor. The tapered shim is the
best support for the rotor, but since the wheel is only bolted in 5 places, I
think that the result would be a "taper" that would work. The hub is steel
and the rotor is steel, so some aluminum shim stock might would nice and
then deform a little to keep stress points from forming.
I sware .. if its not one thing ... its another.
Thoughts?
Tom
I think I came up with my temporary solution, but I wanted to see if there
was any SERIOUS negatives to this direction.
Problem :
I had Bobby turn the two rear hubs, to make sure they were true, & both
where out. One of the hubs showed signs of being beaten and pryed on
with something quite large. Most likely someone without a hub puller. The
passenger side hub went on perfect, with less then .001 runout, the other
side (the one with pry marks) showed .022 runout!! Thats not gonna work.
It also explains my pulsating pedal (though I dont have a clue why I didnt
notice it before, unless the worn pads played a part). I couldnt see how
Bobby could have messed up machining the hub, so I decided to check the
axle to see if it was bent. Unfortunately - it is. The axle is bent about .024
in the same area that would cause the hub to be "out". Normally this is a
reason to buy the flanged axle kit from Fairborn, which I plan to do, but I
can NOT afford it right now. I need to get my bumpers rechromed for the
upcoming show I have labored all year long to enter (win?) I thought of
getting a replacment axle, but I dont even want to spend that money for
something I plan on dumping in a year or so. The axle has been bent for
over 15 years, so I doubt that there is a breakage issue. The pry marks
on the hub are opposite from the direction the axle is bent. It was bent by
someone trying to remove the hub by prying with something huge.
Solution option "A" :
Because I drive the car infrequently, I think that I will see if Bobby can do
a tapered shim that I can put between the hub and the disc. This will allow
me to get the car mobile again, solve the wobble, and spend the least cash
doing so. Then in a year or so, I will buy the Fairborn kit. I KNOW that its
not the "Right" way to fix it, but it will work, and it beats machining the hub
to match the bend (which would make it useless for someone else). If it is
not possible to make the tapered shim, then I might just have him machine
it with forced runout to match the axle bend. One would assume that any
replacement axle, would come with a hub.
Solution option "B" :
My secondary idea is to use shim stock peices of .020 and .010 as washers
at the lug bolts, in between the hub and the rotor. The tapered shim is the
best support for the rotor, but since the wheel is only bolted in 5 places, I
think that the result would be a "taper" that would work. The hub is steel
and the rotor is steel, so some aluminum shim stock might would nice and
then deform a little to keep stress points from forming.
I sware .. if its not one thing ... its another.
Thoughts?
Tom
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