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  • Water Pump housing.

    I have been disassembling a spare motor for a future project and one of the ears is broke on the water pump housing. Anyone fix one of these before? I was going to sandblast the whole thing and reuse it. Do I need to find someone who can weld cast iron or can I get away w/ epoxy?

  • #2
    JDC - Forget the epoxy, it will fail somewhere when it's very inconvenient. It can be welded. My advice would be to locate an old welder in your area that has experience because heating the part and rod type is critical. It might hold for a long time but my fear in a temperature cycling environment is that the stresses created would eventially have it fail. I'd replace the housing and be done with the problem. Bob

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    • #3
      The best plan is to get another one! To break that piece of IRON, it would just about have to have been in a collision!
      It is either '56-'60 square 4 bolt Water outlet type or a '61 to '64 2 hole round outlet type,
      unless it is a Supercharged '63 or '64 or an Avanti. The common ones are not too expensive, cheaper if you can find one in your area because they are heavy to ship.


      StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

      Comment


      • #4
        A blast from the past:

        I have a 63 259 in my 59 Lark VIII. The water pump housing on the front has the two bolt thermostat housing. When I went to the local FLAPS, they could not find the correct thermostat for the car.

        I have the engine out of the car and am going through it for replacing seals, etc. and was going to change out the water pump housing to what was originally on the 1959 259 V8 (4 bolt outlet).

        It occurred to me that there may be flow characteristics that are different or water pump fit-up issues that pushed the change.

        Do I need to be concerned with changing the water pump housing on a 63 engine FROM the 2 bolt TO the 4 bolt?

        Thanks!

        Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
        The best plan is to get another one! To break that piece of IRON, it would just about have to have been in a collision!
        It is either '56-'60 square 4 bolt Water outlet type or a '61 to '64 2 hole round outlet type,
        unless it is a Supercharged '63 or '64 or an Avanti. The common ones are not too expensive, cheaper if you can find one in your area because they are heavy to ship.


        StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA
        Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
        1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

        Comment


        • #5
          X2 on just finding another. They're not cost-effective to repair. The water manifolds are so thick on the ground, several are scrapped every year because members don't want to store them. A request here will find several for cheap or even free for the shipping cost.

          jack vines
          PackardV8

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          • #6
            Jack, Thanks for replying, I brought an old thread to life (2008) by asking about the differences between a housing for a 59 259 and a 63 259. Are there any flow characteristics I should be concerned about by going BACK to the the 59 WP housing?



            Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
            X2 on just finding another. They're not cost-effective to repair. The water manifolds are so thick on the ground, several are scrapped every year because members don't want to store them. A request here will find several for cheap or even free for the shipping cost.

            jack vines
            Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
            1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by BILT4ME View Post
              Jack, Thanks for replying, I brought an old thread to life (2008) by asking about the differences between a housing for a 59 259 and a 63 259. Are there any flow characteristics I should be concerned about by going BACK to the the 59 WP housing?
              I've never noticed any functional difference.

              jack vines
              PackardV8

              Comment


              • #8
                A few outer differences, but also never noticed any interior differences.
                Just make sure you check and adjust if needed, the impeller needs to be very close to the machined surface in the housing. A couple of "small" pieces of clay (or similar) on two or three blades, put some WD-40 on the machined surface to keep the clay from sticking, push the pump into place, remove it.
                The clay should be squeezed to about .015" or .020".
                Use a gear puller or press to adjust the impeller. The closer the better, will the pump move water.

                Mike

                Comment


                • #9
                  For thermostats I use a Murray "Fail-Safe" t-state, part# 7200-180
                  59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                  60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                  61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                  62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                  62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                  62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                  63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                  63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                  64 Zip Van
                  66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                  66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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                  • #10
                    Thanks mike! That was very helpful! I will test fit the pump before I assemble everything in order to make sure I get it tweaked as much as possible.

                    Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten View Post
                    A few outer differences, but also never noticed any interior differences.
                    Just make sure you check and adjust if needed, the impeller needs to be very close to the machined surface in the housing. A couple of "small" pieces of clay (or similar) on two or three blades, put some WD-40 on the machined surface to keep the clay from sticking, push the pump into place, remove it.
                    The clay should be squeezed to about .015" or .020".
                    Use a gear puller or press to adjust the impeller. The closer the better, will the pump move water.

                    Mike
                    Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
                    1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thank you Warren!
                      I have been searching for correct part numbers. I have not have good luck with the Murray Fail-Safe T-Stats, but I can use the number to get me where I need to be.

                      Originally posted by Warren Webb View Post
                      For thermostats I use a Murray "Fail-Safe" t-state, part# 7200-180
                      Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
                      1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

                      Comment

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