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Heat riser valve

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  • Heat riser valve

    hello all,

    Is it necesary to have the heat riser valve hooked up,or can I do something different to do the same effect?

    Dylan
    '61 lark regal 4dr wagon
    Dylan Wills
    Everett, Wa.


    1961 Lark 4 door wagon
    1961 Lark 4 door wagon #2 (Wife's car!)
    1955 VW Beetle (Went to the dark side)
    1914 Ford Model T

  • #2
    This IS a Lark VIII, right? In the colder Northern climates it is definitely necessary to have the Heat Riser Valve working properly for Carb. warm-up and Automatic Choke operation.

    If however you install a modified 2 Brl. Intake manifold and new Edelbrock 4 Brl. like most are doing now because of lack of wear-out type parts for the 2 barrel Stromberg, then you have to block the Carb. choke heat tube and use an electric choke, so it matters LESS. [:0]

    StudeRich
    Studebakers Northwest
    Ferndale, WA
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

    Comment


    • #3
      The heat riser valve is designed to provide a faster 'warm up until it runs right' mode, especially on those cold weather starts.
      If you are only doing fair weather driving, with a well tuned Stude....You can probaly get away without one as long as your choke is working 'primo'.
      A lot of people remove the heat riser valve, and block off the heat crossover in the intake manifold (dual exhaust only) to help prevent hot weather 'vapor lock' problems.
      Your choice.... You can make it run great either way.
      Jeff[8D]


      quote:Originally posted by silverhawk

      hello all,
      Is it necesary to have the heat riser valve hooked up,or can I do something different to do the same effect?
      Dylan
      http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
      HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

      Jeff


      Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



      Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks, I'll just hook it up again 'cause I still have a good carb. StudeRich, what parts of the carb is scarce?

        Dylan
        '61 lark regal 4dr wagon
        Dylan Wills
        Everett, Wa.


        1961 Lark 4 door wagon
        1961 Lark 4 door wagon #2 (Wife's car!)
        1955 VW Beetle (Went to the dark side)
        1914 Ford Model T

        Comment


        • #5
          Dylan; thought you had a Silver Hawk and a parts car Lark, your family also has that nice '61 Wagon? [:0] Cool! [^]

          Mainly it's just the throttle plate (base), there have not been new ones for many years. I suppose a good Carb. specialist could bronze bush some of them, I have a few worn out ones here.

          I have never heard the term "hook it up" used in reference to a heat riser valve. it is a 3/4" spacer with a thermostatic weighted flapper valve inside of it, in between the right manifold and the head pipe. Usually it is either there or not.

          Truth be told, if you can restrain yourself from having too much fun with the secondaries on a Edelbrock, they can get better mileage and way better performance than the 2 Brl. [^]

          StudeRich
          Studebakers Northwest
          Ferndale, WA
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

          Comment


          • #6
            I removed the heatriser and shut off and dismanteled the automatic choke system totally.
            Instead of this I connected the gasrod on the carb with a hand choke of a mini Austin 7(cheap).Thru the lighter hole
            You can see this as a handthrottle divice
            so when starting I give some throttle on the dash and it is set as long as the engine is warming up,it works fine,oly the OD is not working in this situation because of the revs 1000-1500
            it is not too cold max -10C and she runs on LPG
            some times I have to change to Petrol when it is colder then it does work too.
            Dick Waterreus

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