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Engine un-seize product

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  • Engine un-seize product

    Anyone ever try this?

    http://www.seized-engine.com/used-car-engines.html

    I didn't see anywhere that showed the ingredients...

    I thought for $20 I'd give it a try- until I read that they call for a bottle for each cylinder of a V8![:0] So, let's see... 8 cylinders, times $20, equals.......... 2! (As in too much!)[V]

    I saw it in the Nov. Hemmings Classic Car; so I thought it would be legit... not so sure now...

    Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
    Parish, central NY 13131

    "Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

    "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"




  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by bams50

    Anyone ever try this?

    http://www.seized-engine.com/used-car-engines.html

    I didn't see anywhere that showed the ingredients...

    I thought for $20 I'd give it a try- until I read that they call for a bottle for each cylinder of a V8![:0] So, let's see... 8 cylinders, times $20, equals.......... 2! (As in too much!)[V]

    I saw it in the Nov. Hemmings Classic Car; so I thought it would be legit... not so sure now...

    Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
    Parish, central NY 13131

    "Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

    "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"
    Bob,

    If you had a Duesenberg you were trying to get unstuck, you probably wouldn't be too concerned about spending that $160.....

    Paul
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
    Paul
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

    Comment


    • #3
      Yeah Paul, but what about a muttley old Stude 259?[|)][)]

      I'm just wondering if it's something specially formulated for the job, or just a $20 bottle of Kerosene?



      Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
      Parish, central NY 13131

      "Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

      "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"



      Comment


      • #4
        Use tranny fluid, or Marvel's Mystery Oil.

        A lot cheaper, and known by many CASOs to work well.

        Matthew Burnette
        Hazlehurst, GA


        Comment


        • #5
          Bob
          For half the price on a V/8 you could buy a gasket head set. Then you could clean the rust or what ever is in there. Ive had valves stuck that prevented a Stude from turning over.

          Gordon

          Comment


          • #6
            From the Engine Release website:

            Contains diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers.

            These are basically brake fluids and lubricants.

            My guess is that it is the stated glycols in a combination with some surfactants to improve wetting. They will also adsorb some water which may help.

            I'd try DOT3 brake fluid, possibly mixed with a little alcohol to help wetting.

            JMHO-Bob



            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks, Bob, I didn't find that. Looks like I'll be sticking with the the usual remedies.

              Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
              Parish, central NY 13131

              "Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

              "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"



              Comment


              • #8
                Has anyone tried a product called Kroil? What results did you have. A friend swears he freed up a stuck engine with diet coke. Any body ever try that? I have a couple of stuck "ran when parked" engines I'd like to get freed up. Thanks

                Comment


                • #9
                  "A friend swears he freed up a stuck engine with diet coke"-- I've heard of this also. I suspect it's the phosphoric acid in coke which makes it work. Metal prep used before painting on bare metal would probably also work as it contains phosphoric acid.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I've also heard of Coke, but have never tried any of these remedies. My father used Kroil all his life, but again, never tried it for stuck engines. I might even still have a "Kan-O-Kroil" around somewhere[8D]

                    The subject of freeing stuck engines has been discussed on this forum many times in the past. Maybe this would be a good time to re-open this discussion to get the latest opinions on the best way to do so... heck, I now have 3 I want to try to free up! Your thoughts anyone??



                    Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
                    Parish, central NY 13131

                    "Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

                    "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"



                    Comment


                    • #11
                      There are 2 ways to free up a stuck engine.Each way has
                      it's uses but rarely cross over.
                      Lightly stuck engines I've used Coke and Marvel Mystery
                      with equal success.This was in cars I knew had just sat
                      too long.I call the use of liquids the lazy man way.
                      In junkyard engines or cars that have set for a long time
                      exposed to the elements I tear the engines down so each
                      component can be inspected.No matter how much "miracle juice"
                      is poured down into cylinders if they are filled with mouse
                      nests or had water frozen in them that engine wont budge.
                      Removing the heads and pan is probably going to be needed anyway
                      so I do it first to get a good look.
                      This is up in the frozen tundra so dry climate conditions
                      may dictate other methods.Results may vary from situation
                      to situation.
                      Mono mind in a stereo world

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Metal prep is basically phosphoric acid, turns iron oxide into iron phosphate whidh is supposed to be inert although I don't know why that would make the engine less sticky, it doesn't dissolve the rust. I've heard of coke dissolving pennies as well as tooth enamel. Are there other active ingredients in coke? Anybody have first hand experience?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          yesterday I got some PH Plus (Sodium Carbonate) to try the reverse electrolysis method of rust removal. The first victim to be dragged into the lab-OR-ah-tory high in the castle tower will be a particularly nasty master cylinder off an IH scout.

                          Seems like the process could be used very easily on a headless engine. I don't know how the very nearby aluminum piston would react.

                          http://www.binderbulletin.org/forums...ad.php?t=30393
                          http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolysis.pdf
                          http://www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php


                          got a month of warm weather ahead? wanna try molasses?
                          http://www.steamengine.com.au/ic/faq/mollasis.html

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Kano Kroil is the best product I've ever used.It is industrial use only.If you kow someone that works at a plant or for an industrial supply company they should be able to get it or order direst from www.kanolabs.com.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              "Metal prep is basically phosphoric acid, turns iron oxide into iron phosphate whidh is supposed to be inert although I don't know why that would make the engine less sticky, it doesn't dissolve the rust."
                              Rust( iron oxide) expands in volume from original metal which may have something to do with the lockup. I'm not a chemist but I suspect the
                              conversion to iron phosphate may tend to do the reverse. You might try the acetone/trans fluid mix discussed here sometime back.
                              If head is off hot water in block and dry ice on the piston should help whatever you use penetrate better.

                              Comment

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