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power steering control valve 2

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  • power steering control valve 2

    I posted this message at the end of a previous topic but got no response. I really need help to rebuild the Bendix power steering control valve. All directions I have seen to date say to put it back togehter in the original configuration. I do not know that as I suspect previous work on the valve before I got the car. This power steering problem has destoyed my interest in this otherwise good car. I want to fix it so I can sell the car - a 62 GT Hawk.

    The previous posting follows: I put in a new seal kit some time ago. Now it leaks more than before (especially when steering is at its limits), so it is smarter than I am. I tried to reinstall the kit the the same as the old one. I have strong reason to believe it was worked on before I got the car, and I know the previous owner wasn't that good a mechanic. I would replace the entire control valve if I could find one, just to end the problem!!!

    I consulted the Stude repair and parts manuals and every other piece of literature I could find. None describe the correct orientation of the seals. Should the belled side face the inside of the spool or should they be facing out? Logically it would seem they should face the inside, where the hydraulic pressure is. Neither do the manuals describe the orientation of the spool valve.

    I also have Ford 1953 Service Booklet No. 6 which describes "Servicing Power Steering" that is exactly the same system as my 62 Hawk power steering. It does not give the answers about seal and spool valve orientation I need. HELP!!! I am in Colorado.

  • #2
    Late Studebaker Car Shop manual. Power Steering section. Page 31. Illustration #65. Item #26 "Seal" - Look at item 26 in the cutaway installation. It clearly shows the seal's cup facing inwards. Inwards on both ends of the spool.

    Miscreant at large.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President 2-dr
    1955 President State
    1951 Champion Biz cpe
    1963 Daytona project FS
    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.


    • #3
      Dave rebuilds them & has rebuilt in stock for exchange. Costs about $100. + shipping.Had mine done 3yrs ago by Dave & no problems.If your not happy he will make it right

      Dave Thibeault! He's at 978-897-3158 in Massachusetts


      • #4
        The replacement of the seals does not mean your problem is do you know the spool itself is not worn, or the id of the housing itself?


        • #5
          Thanks a ton, guys. You solved the seal direction problem for me. I got my cylinder apart and found the seals facing the wrong direction and one broken washer behind the seal. This is an intermediate status posting for others to possibly use. I have a bunch of measurements of the cylinder and parts and a terrific alternate for the seal to report. Will try to post some info here and some later. Anyone needing measurements please request them.

          Upon getting things apart I headed to the local CarQuest Autoparts - not because I expected them to have the parts (though they do pretty well), but because I knew they have some older counter personnel who can give you names of expert shops & people to contact. Sure enough they did exactly that. I can't praise CarQuest enough for their excellent attitude and knowledge - rare in the auto parts business!!!

          They sent me to a Denver power steering rebuild shop, where the first thing I saw was 4 rebuilt Bendix control cylinders. Unfortunately they were for something like 65 Mustangs, and not quite interchangeable with Studes. But, the knowledge was there as well as a lathe to build me a replacement for the broken washer! He didn't have seals on hand so sent me to a hydraulic seal distributor. On my way out the door he dropped the real gem - if the exact "lipped" seal we are used to isn't available an o-ring seal works just as well! He has tested many such seals on his pressure table. Well that is exactly what happened - they didn't have the exact seal but found that a 17mm (ID) by 23mm (OD) by 3mm (thickness) o-ring seal will fit. The seal dimensions were just a little larger than the dimensions I measured on the control cylinder with a caliper, but it's good for an o-ring to be a little too large than a little too small. I couldn't figure a good way to install the o-ring on the front (since it was a little oversized), so I used the almost new "lipped" rebuild seal on the front and one of the o-rings seals on the rear. It was easier to install the o-ring seal on the rear than the "lipped" seal, too. So far it has been working great - no leaks.

          I will report a follow-up later after more mileage. Perhaps you could also get the o-ring at a local hardware store, but I don't know of compatability of such a ring with hydraulic fluid. The ones I got were specifically for use in hydraulic equipment. If you have time for shipping the "correct" seals are probably the best to use, but local sources can be utilized when time is important.


          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by stuvw2mny

            they didn't have the exact seal but found that a 17mm (ID) by 23mm (OD) by 3mm (thickness) o-ring seal will fit.
            Is this a square cut (square cross-section) o ring?

            Dwain G.
            "Burning Bridges...Lost Forevermore"......