Stromberg WW on a OHV 6

[Ron Dame]

Someone here or on teh alt.autos.studebaker group had god success mounting a Stromberg WW from a 259 on a OHV 6.

Are they here? I have questions about throttle linkage. How'd you do it?

Ron

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

[r1lark]

quote:Originally posted by Ron Dame

Someone here or on teh alt.autos.studebaker group had god success mounting a Stromberg WW from a 259 on a OHV 6.

Are they here? I have questions about throttle linkage. How'd you do it?

Ron

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

Ron,

A little searching on Google Groups turned up this message on the Stude NG:

quote:bob stehlik
Sep 2 2007, 4:41 pm
Newsgroups: alt.autos.studebaker
From: bob stehlik <steh...@mbol.us>
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2007 13:41:46 -0700
Local: Sun, Sep 2 2007 4:41 pm
Subject: Re: OHV six carb / intake questions
Reply to author | Forward | Print | Individual message | Show original | Report this message | Find messages by this author
On Sun, 02 Sep 2007 15:16:06 -0000, studebake...@gmail.com wrote:
I run a Studebaker 2 barrel on mine. Get a 2 to 1 barrel adapter for a VW and bolt it on. Easy fix. Realy wakes up that 6, runs more like a 232 v8.
I have run the later Stromberg off a 60 lark and I now run a 55 back
draft stromberg. I like the later model better but the one I have
needs to be rebuilt. I will put it back on as soon as I fix it. There
is another club member using the same configuration in his 53 HT that has a overhead valve engine and he just loves it. My 60 Lark VI
flathead uses the same setup. You will have to tweak the linkage and
go to a manual choke. You can use the auto choke but it is a bear to
get adjusted. It coast me $10 for the adapter $7.95 for the choke kit
and a old carb out of my extra parts($19.95 for the rebuild kit). Gas
milage went from 23 to 18 but it was worth it I can now run over the
hills without problems.

Here's the link: http://groups.google.com/group/alt.a...35353ceb853801

Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

[Jeff T.]

Ron,

On a carburation vein...

I contacted the archives about looking to see if engineering drawings exist for a OHV 2bb manifold that Bob Palma and his cousin Gearge saw during one of their unauthorized tours of Studebaker way back when.

The only drawbacks to the search are the $25.00 per hour research fees and who would build the thing if the plans exist and I had a copy

It may be simpler to get a WW and a VW adaptor and go to town or try once of those X car carbs at least the cid is close.

Jeff T.

"I'm getting nowhere as fast as I can"
The Replacements.

[Ron Dame]

I've already got the adapter, it's the linkage I'd like to see. I played with it some last winter, but never did much with it. I'll see if I can find Bob Stehlic and find out how he did it. Thanks Jeff and Paul.

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

[Jeff T.]

Ron,

Where did you get the 2bb adaptor, I have a couple of WW carbs, I can get a kit at a local NAPA and I hate the AS carb that I have...

Oh, how's the 185 coming

Jeff T.

"I'm getting nowhere as fast as I can"
The Replacements.

[Ron Dame]

Sheesh, I don't remember. AFAIR it came with a bunch of other parts with one project or another several years ago. It's not a great casting, I'll have to clean it up a bit before I use it. No names or numbers on it, it may even be a home-made type thing.

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

[Ron Dame]

I almost finished the installation today, I drove the truck and except for some linkage geometry issues (Linkage goes over-center on WOT (:-O )it works pretty good!

I do have a few other issues, that I need some advice from the carb experts. I can stick a kit in a carb and adjust it, but as far as tuning the jets/rods etc, I'm a bit lost. The carb came of a '62 289, so it really isn't optimized for the little 170 OHV. I've got a stumble on part throttle acceleration. There's a good, strong accelerator pump squirt. AFAIK, this means that it's a bit lean at this point (Right or wrong?), and that if I install lighter power rod springs, I'd get enrichment at lower vacuums ( again, is this right or wrong?) If it's right, where do I find different springs for a WW?

Or if I'm a FOS, how can I optimize this carb for this engine?

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

[r1lark]

quote:Originally posted by Ron Dame

I almost finished the installation today, I drove the truck and except for some linkage geometry issues (Linkage goes over-center on WOT (:-O )it works pretty good!

I do have a few other issues, that I need some advice from the carb experts. I can stick a kit in a carb and adjust it, but as far as tuning the jets/rods etc, I'm a bit lost. The carb came of a '62 289, so it really isn't optimized for the little 170 OHV. I've got a stumble on part throttle acceleration. There's a good, strong accelerator pump squirt. AFAIK, this means that it's a bit lean at this point (Right or wrong?), and that if I install lighter power rod springs, I'd get enrichment at lower vacuums ( again, is this right or wrong?) If it's right, where do I find different springs for a WW?

Or if I'm a FOS, how can I optimize this carb for this engine?

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

Pictures, pictures, PICTURES.....we want PICTURES!!!

Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

[Ron Dame]

quote:Originally posted by r1lark

quote:Originally posted by Ron Dame

I almost finished the installation today, I drove the truck and except for some linkage geometry issues (Linkage goes over-center on WOT (:-O )it works pretty good!

I do have a few other issues, that I need some advice from the carb experts. I can stick a kit in a carb and adjust it, but as far as tuning the jets/rods etc, I'm a bit lost. The carb came of a '62 289, so it really isn't optimized for the little 170 OHV. I've got a stumble on part throttle acceleration. There's a good, strong accelerator pump squirt. AFAIK, this means that it's a bit lean at this point (Right or wrong?), and that if I install lighter power rod springs, I'd get enrichment at lower vacuums ( again, is this right or wrong?) If it's right, where do I find different springs for a WW?

Or if I'm a FOS, how can I optimize this carb for this engine?

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

Pictures, pictures, PICTURES.....we want PICTURES!!!

Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

OK, but let me at least get the linkage issues fixed... and on that note, where's the best place to get some heim joints? Those darned linkage clips are driving me nuts. They bend and break, and you can only get them in a bubble pack of 9 other clips you don't need.

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

[r1lark]

quote:
OK, but let me at least get the linkage issues fixed... and on that note, where's the best place to get some heim joints? Those darned linkage clips are driving me nuts. They bend and break, and you can only get them in a bubble pack of 9 other clips you don't need.

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

Ron,

I usually get them here:
http://automotivefasteners.thomasnet...miscellaneous? but I see that Automotive Fasteners does'nt have a location in Asheville.

Note they have heim (spherical rod) ends, but also have the throttle ball joints. But there should be similar type places in Asheville.

Another place might be a Speed Shop, or someplace that carries a lot of high performance/racing items. For example, you may find a dual 4-bbl linkage setup at Advance or Autozone or O'Reilly that might have several in it.

Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

[Ron Dame]

So does anyone have any ideas of how to adjust the metering rods and springs for this engine? And sources for rods and/or springs?

quote:Originally posted by Ron Dame

I almost finished the installation today, I drove the truck and except for some linkage geometry issues (Linkage goes over-center on WOT (:-O )it works pretty good!

I do have a few other issues, that I need some advice from the carb experts. I can stick a kit in a carb and adjust it, but as far as tuning the jets/rods etc, I'm a bit lost. The carb came of a '62 289, so it really isn't optimized for the little 170 OHV. I've got a stumble on part throttle acceleration. There's a good, strong accelerator pump squirt. AFAIK, this means that it's a bit lean at this point (Right or wrong?), and that if I install lighter power rod springs, I'd get enrichment at lower vacuums ( again, is this right or wrong?) If it's right, where do I find different springs for a WW?

Or if I'm a FOS, how can I optimize this carb for this engine?

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

[r1lark]

quote:Originally posted by Ron Dame

So does anyone have any ideas of how to adjust the metering rods and springs for this engine? And sources for rods and/or springs?

quote:Originally posted by Ron Dame

I almost finished the installation today, I drove the truck and except for some linkage geometry issues (Linkage goes over-center on WOT (:-O )it works pretty good!

I do have a few other issues, that I need some advice from the carb experts. I can stick a kit in a carb and adjust it, but as far as tuning the jets/rods etc, I'm a bit lost. The carb came of a '62 289, so it really isn't optimized for the little 170 OHV. I've got a stumble on part throttle acceleration. There's a good, strong accelerator pump squirt. AFAIK, this means that it's a bit lean at this point (Right or wrong?), and that if I install lighter power rod springs, I'd get enrichment at lower vacuums ( again, is this right or wrong?) If it's right, where do I find different springs for a WW?

Or if I'm a FOS, how can I optimize this carb for this engine?

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

Ron,

Let me preface this by saying that I am in [u]no way</u> a carb expert. That said, in looking at the drawing of the Stromberg WW in the parts manual, I don't think this carb has metering rods (like, for example, a Carter RBS or AFB).

The WW does have a power valve ("vacuum power piston") which appears to either cover or uncover a power bypass jet.

A good look at the parts manuals from the mid-50s to mid-60s might uncover various main jet and power bypass jet part numbers. Perhaps the jets from earlier 259 and 224s would work better with the 170. There may also be different vacuum power pistons that have slightly different springs. IMHO, these carbs don't have a lot of options for tuning past changing the jet sizes.

Are you sure this carb is at a good baseline - no bad gaskets, no worn baseplate, etc? Your first step might be disassembly, a good cleaning, and putting the carb back to stock condition/specs. When you do this, look closely at the parts book, shop manual, and rebuild kit drawings to make sure everything is in place correctly. I have had several carbs lately that someone 'modified' the internals either purposely or by accident (springs in wrong places or gone, check balls gone, etc), so don't just put it back "as you found it" unless you are positive what you found is correct.

Once you are sure the carb is right inside, then you can start looking at driveability issues. Drive it and then inspect the plugs to get a feel for rich versus lean. Maybe you can beg/borrow/steal an air/fuel ratio meter to help you tune. There are also those ColorTune (or something like that) systems where you put in a special spark plug that allows you to see the color of the fuel burn in the combustion chamber - never have used one, but someone else may have that wants to chime in.

Hopefully Jeff Rice will have some suggestions - he's pretty sharp on this stuff.

Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

[N8N]

I believe that Calvin ("oldcarfart") was selling 1bbl to 2bbl adapters a few years ago, and was intending for them to be used with F*rd Pinto (I think?) 2bbl carbs. He might be able to shed some light on your situation, although I think his experience was with earlier flatheads.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[Ron Dame]

Let me preface this by saying that I am in [u]no way</u> a carb expert. That said, in looking at the drawing of the Stromberg WW in the parts manual, I don't think this carb has metering rods (like, for example, a Carter RBS or AFB).

The WW does have a power valve ("vacuum power piston") which appears to either cover or uncover a power bypass jet.

A good look at the parts manuals from the mid-50s to mid-60s might uncover various main jet and power bypass jet part numbers. Perhaps the jets from earlier 259 and 224s would work better with the 170. There may also be different vacuum power pistons that have slightly different springs. IMHO, these carbs don't have a lot of options for tuning past changing the jet sizes.

Are you sure this carb is at a good baseline - no bad gaskets, no worn baseplate, etc? Your first step might be disassembly, a good cleaning, and putting the carb back to stock condition/specs. When you do this, look closely at the parts book, shop manual, and rebuild kit drawings to make sure everything is in place correctly. I have had several carbs lately that someone 'modified' the internals either purposely or by accident (springs in wrong places or gone, check balls gone, etc), so don't just put it back "as you found it" unless you are positive what you found is correct.

Once you are sure the carb is right inside, then you can start looking at driveability issues. Drive it and then inspect the plugs to get a feel for rich versus lean. Maybe you can beg/borrow/steal an air/fuel ratio meter to help you tune. There are also those ColorTune (or something like that) systems where you put in a special spark plug that allows you to see the color of the fuel burn in the combustion chamber - never have used one, but someone else may have that wants to chime in.

Hopefully Jeff Rice will have some suggestions - he's pretty sharp on this stuff.

Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
[/quote]

Right you are, no metering rods. I finally unearthed my parts book and manual.

The carb is decent..not great, not bad. I took it off Boomerang, my old '62 Daytona ragtop, when I put an Edelbrock on it, so it''s been sitting a few years. There's a bit of slop in the throttle shaft which can make idle speed a variable affair, but it ran fine on Boomerang. When I took it off, I popped the top off the carb, cleaned it out, and filled the accelerator pump well with MMO to keep the leather from drying out. I've got a good healthy squirt (well the carb does anyway) so that's not the issue. I'm guessing there is some way to change the enrichment at part throttle. I've got to rework the linkage one more time before I can drive it enough to read the plugs, but it feels like it's lean at low speed part throttle. WOT may be lean too, but it still feels SO much better than the old RBS.

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

[Ron Dame]

quote:Originally posted by Ron Dame



try website at: www.studebakerskytop.com [/i]
Blah blah bah

Sorry about that, I tried to trim the quote and screewed up the formatting

Ron Dame
'63 Champ