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Carburetor Help!

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  • Carburetor Help!

    1947 Studebaker M-5
    1946 Studebaker M-5
    1948 Studebaker Land Cruiser
    1961 Studebaker Lark 4-dr. Sedan
    1951 Studebaker Land Cruiser

  • #2
    two thoughts...

    sounds like it is only running poorly when cold, check your choke adjustment.

    Also, make sure you are adjusting your idle mixture with the engine fully up to operating temperature. You might have to go back and readjust the choke the next day after resetting the idle mix.

    Finally, make sure that you don't have a vacuum leak.

    good luck,


    55 Commander Starlight
    55 Commander Starlight


    • #3
      Everything Nate said is correct. As for any vacuum leaks...make sure the vacuum line to the distributor is intact, some have a piece of. . rubber hose in that line, make sure it's not cracked, or worse, missing. another possibility is the carb. base gasket. Simple test with engine running, use a UN-LIT butane torch, turn it on and aim it all around the base of the carb. if there is a leak the idle speed will increase, and or, smooth out. Same condition could exist arond the intake gasket at the cylinder head, use the same test. Hope this helps
      Dan Miller

      Road Racers turn left AND right.


      • #4
        Probably water in your fuel.

        DEEPNHOCK at
        Brooklet, Georgia
        '37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
        '37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
        '61 Hawk (project)

        HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)


        Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain

        Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)


        • #5
          Well, a bit of blunt honesty needs to be mentioned here. That Carter AS carb was junk when new. I've never heard anyone say anything nice about it. That said, I once had a Stromberg WW carb on a Stude V8 that would give me intermittent grief like you speak of. Heck, I went thru that thing more than once and had it apart I don't know HOW many times in the course of a couple of months!
          In desperation one day, I stripped it all apart once AGAIN and blew out all the passages as I had done time and time before. What was different this time tho, was that a ball of lint finally ejected from one of the internal passages as I was blowing air thru it this way and that!
          Being light in weight and very frazzled, that bit of fluff didn't go far. Upon closer inspection, it looked as tho it might have come from one of those red shop rags or something colored dark red. No telling how long that stuff had been held captive in the bowels of that carb, but after I reassembled it that last time, the damned thing worked flawlessly![^]
          Since I'd blown thru every passage in that carb numerous times, I can only assume that that bit of lint was caught on some rough edge of the bowl casting that kept it from flying out with a blast of air.[8] Of course, I have nothing but praise for the WW series of carbs. Those things keep working well even when well worn. Can't say that from my experience with the AS series, which AMC tried to use on many early 60s Ramblers as well.[xx(]

          Miscreant adrift in
          the BerStuda Triangle!!

          1957 Transtar 1/2ton
          1960 Larkvertible V8
          1958 Provincial wagon
          1953 Commander coupe

          No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.


          • #6
            I use an aerosol can of gum cutter to check for vacuum leaks.
            "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

            Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"


            • #7
              If I might be so bold as to suggest...
              Jeff Rice either has or can steer you to a carb for that little six. He has a supply business that has some really great products. His name on this forum is: deepnhock and you can contact him by clicking on members in the task bar on your top right of this screen. Just type in his user name and it will show you his profile. You can then send him an e-mail.
              Or try this:

              There are good carbs for that engine. Jeff is very good for helping people with carb problems. I should know, he was tremendous help to me once...

              Lotsa Larks!
              K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
              Ron Smith
              Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
              K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
              Ron Smith
              Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?


              • #8
                Not wanting to be contradictory, but I've always had good success with AS carb. I've bought them at swap meets, taken apart, soak in solvent for an appropiate time, scrub, little bottle wash brushes in the tight places,blow them out with air pressure, new gasket set, oil the new accel. pump, properly set float, make the correct choke settings and have a very economical carb. The carb that I've thrown away is the RBS, now that is a POJ. Everyone has dirrerent experiences. I've taken the rbs off a ohv 6 and put an AS carb and have a much better running engine.
                I also like the ww carb, they can be redone over and oever. The weakness is the throttle plate and shaft, which can be rebushed.
                Thanks for letting me share,


                • #9
                  I have a place that I take my carburetors to get repaired. They do such a wonderful job and no further adjustment is required. Just install and start the engine. The cost is normally about $85 plus shipping. If interested, let me know. Chet