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Rear 1/4 windows on a '55 hardtop

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  • Rear 1/4 windows on a '55 hardtop

    I've been working on the Quarter windows of my'55 stude for about 2 weeks off,and on. Boy you talk about an exercise in futility. The last MORON left most of the parts off the windows. I bought a shop
    manual from Stephen Allen to guide me. It don't mention there is supposed to be a roller in the vertical giude, and I had to use
    hardware store springs, and I'm still close to square 1. Does anyone
    have any input(sympathy)?


    James K. Clark
    East Tenn.
    '55 Prez. 2dr Hdtp.
    Don't take yourself too seriously!

    James K. Clark

  • #2
    I don't know but I am interested in your problem since the right quarter window on my '54 K has a 1/2 inch gap between its leading edge and the rear edge of the door window, and this is with both windows fully rolled up. At least I don't worry much about carbon monoxide poisoning while driving. There is a section in the shop manual describing how to adjust this fit, but I haven't attempted it yet. Let us know how you make out.

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    • #3
      Studebayker
      What is the actual problem? Did you get the rollers?
      Klif

      55 Speedster
      42 Champ Coupe
      55 Speedster/Street Machine
      63 Avanti R2
      64 Convertible R1

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      • #4
        Blue15, the rear windows are supposed to kick forward at the very last part of their rollup. Then kick back that amount when you first start to roll them down. Do your's kick forward or backwards at the top of their travel?
        At the lower end of the window guide, there's a seperate access panel from the one that allows removal of the regulator. There's slotted adjustment provisions there that's supposed to make it possible to move the glass forward or reward to align it to the rear edge of the door glass.

        Miscreant adrift in
        the BerStuda Triangle!!

        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
        1960 Larkvertible V8
        1958 Provincial wagon
        1953 Commander coupe

        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks much, Mr. Biggs! I haven't looked at my window problem up close for awhile, but I will keep your directions for when I get around to tackling it.

          Now I hope someone can help Studebayker with his problem. Sorry for hijacking the thread.

          Comment


          • #6
            Most of the stuff I have used so far are hardware store items. The
            rollers are for windows. The ones with the rounded edges fit the
            vertical guide perfectly, but they only use a 10-24 screw. There
            is very little strain on these rollers. The springs are #47 springs
            from same hardware store. My biggest problem is getting the roller
            on the winder to move correctly in the dog-leg to correctly seat
            the glass where the door glass meets the quarter window. Yes I have
            adjusted the winder more times than I can count. Stay tuned,I don't
            have enough sense to know when to quit.




            James K. Clark
            East Tenn
            !55 Prez 2dr Hdtp.
            Don't take yourself too seriously!

            James K. Clark

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Studebayker and Blue15G. Couple of hints about the rear 1/4 window mechanisms on 53-55 K's. Make sure all sliding/pivoting points are well greased with a light grease. Mr. Biggs advice about the adjustment at the bottom of the vertical guide is good but check out the spring which goes from the top of the vertical guide to the anchor point at the rear of the window. If it is weak the vertical guide will not move properly affecting smooth operation of the window.

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              • #8
                Today I installed new rollers, and cut one of the #47 springs down
                by about 1 inch. The window gap would be gone, and the spring would
                pull the window back about 1/2 inch. I made some new rollers out of
                aluminum with a 1/4 bolt hole instead of the 10-24 screws. They
                work a little better, but not worth the half day of lathe work. The
                windows will roll up, and down, but they need a little help when
                the roller hits the dogleg at the top, but the gap is closed between the glasses. I think this can be because this stuff is 50 years old.
                and has some slack in it. I hope this will help some one down the
                road. Now back to the ring, and rod bearing job before South Bend!
                Thanks for following my thread.




                James K.Clark
                East Tenn.
                '55 Prez. 2dr Hdtp.
                Don't take yourself too seriously!

                James K. Clark

                Comment

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