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pulling engine

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  • pulling engine

    I will soon be pulling the flathead six out of my '55 champion. I have never pulled an engine before. Any suggestions from those of you that have done this a million times before?


  • #2
    I don't know how mechanically inclined you are...
    The answer depends on why you are pulling the engine.. what you plan on doing with the car, and what the car tells you it needs.
    Are you just going to "freshen" the engine? Total; Rebuild? Transmission too? Hows the front suspension? Brakes? etc...

    I ask these because I almost always pull the front sheet metal off the car when I do major work to an engine. It just makes everything sooooo much easier to get to.

    there are considerations though... about what you are comfortable doing, do you have any help? etc...

    Good luck..

    Specializing in Studebaker Restoration
    Specializing in Studebaker Restoration


    • #3
      My repro 54-63 Chiltons manual groups sixes of all years together.
      It says to remove an engine that will be re-installed ( so bell housing alignment check is [[theoretically]] not needed ), leave the trans in the car.
      Remove hood, upper air deflector, and rad core.

      (I'd steam clean or gunk degrease the entire underhood area but protect all the electrical items. I'd spray all the exhaust nuts and bolts with PB Blaster every few days for a few weeks before removing the engine. I'd take lots of pictures and label every wire and hose, and use eggcrates or some kind of bin to keep bolts separated by component.)

      Remove air cleaner and carb, battery and battery tray.
      Disconnect windshield hoses (drains ?) oil press gages, heat indicator gages.
      Disconnect and remove the generator, starter , solenoid, ignition coil.
      Take out the accelerator rods, disconnect the exhaust pipe flange and U-clamps so the exhaust can be slid back ( Ha !!).
      Disconnect one end of the tie rod and remove the shaft from the steering bell crank. Move the bell crank out of the way to provide clearance for the oil pan. Disconnect the gas lines and attach a lifting device to the engine. Raise the engine slightly to take the weight off the front supports. Remove the anticreep wires and throttle controls from the (auto) trans. Remove the converter housing lower plate (auto) and disco the auto trans driven plate from the Torque converter. If it has a clutch, remove the clutch housing to engine bolts and drive out the dowel pins. Raise the engine slightly and move it forward to break it loose from the clutch housing. continue to move the engine forward until the trans spline is clear of the clutch and lift the engine out of the car.



      • #4
        I am not familiar with the 55 Champion, but I have removed the engine out of a 63 Hawk & it was fast & pretty simple. If you have the removable section on the radiator support (in front of the radiator) you shouldn't even need to remove the hood. After disconnecting all the wires & linkages, mount bolts, ect, I found it easy to remove it with the transmission as an assembly. The car I took the engine out of already had the driveshaft & wiring disconnected, so it took me, with a cherry picker, 20 min.s & it was out.

        60 Lark convertible
        61 Champ
        62 Daytona convertible
        63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
        63 Avanti (2)
        66 Daytona Sport Sedan
        59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
        60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
        61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
        62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
        62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
        62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
        63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
        63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
        64 Zip Van
        66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
        66 Cruiser V-8 auto


        • #5
          I have pulled V8 Stude engines several times, but I have never pulled a six. I've always found it easiest to remove the front sheet metal and hood, and the radiator with the radiator saddle, then pull the engine and transmission as a unit.


          • #6
            I always pull the engine and transmission as a unit and usually with the front sheet metal on (except for the hood) unless it is a car that I am dismanteling or want to pull the "doghouse" for another reason.

            Gary L.
            Wappinger, NY

            SDC member since 1968
            Studebaker enthusiast much longer
            Gary L.
            Wappinger, NY

            SDC member since 1968
            Studebaker enthusiast much longer


            • #7
              Always be sure to drain all of the coolant. Find the block drain plugs and get all of the water out. You don't want antifreeze going all over the place when the motor starts to tip and you realize you've got to get under the car and disconnect one last item.


              • #8
                I would advise you to order a shop manual reprint, before you start,
                and to take pictures, and put your bolts, nuts, fittings, etc., in
                sandwich bags and label.

                Tex E. Grier