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  • Vance
    replied
    Thank your again for all of your help.

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  • Dwain G.
    replied
    That's a 1953-54 Champion distributor. It can be used as a replacement for the original IAT4001 1950 distributor.


    Dwain G.

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  • Vance
    replied
    Dwain, I checked the number on the starter and it is MZ4157. The distributor number is 1AT4010, the carb is a carter and there is no number other than casting numbers on the various parts. It is stamped WE. I found a used oil pan, pick up tube and timing cover-plate and will get it soon.
    How does the distributor number look to you.
    Thank you

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  • Dwain G.
    replied
    Since the car still uses a six volt system, it must be using the 1950 6v starter. Hopefully the ID tag is still on this starter. It should be an Autolite MZ 4157. It would also have to be using the 1950 flywheel, because the 12v starter ring on the 12v flywheel has more teeth (151) than a 6v, and the two will not mesh.


    Dwain G.

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  • Vance
    replied
    Regarding the flywheel, The engine {1959 six} that I am taking out of the car has been using the six volt system and has the starter on it. If I used the flywheel and the starter that is now on the car {1959 engine}, will it work on the 1950 block. Or do you think that the starter was supposed to be used on a 12 volt system and they just hooked it up to the present 6 volt system. It has not given a quick spin when I start the car and I thought I might look into new brushes etc to give it more spin.
    If I do put a 1950 flywheel on the 1950 block, will I have to get another starter to use and not use the one that is now on the 1959 block.
    Thanks again for the help.

    Leave a comment:


  • 54-61-62
    replied
    Head will fit and give you around 8:1 compression, I think.

    Front timing cover won't work. Flywheel will bolt on the engine but you may have clutch mounting issues as they are drilled for different diamater clutch pressure plates.

    Front damper will fit and work fine. Rods will work fine too.

    Manifold will bolt on the engine but you will have to use matching carburator as the carb mounting stud spacing is most likely diferent. Studebaker changed their carb mounting spacing back and forth through the years. Some will interchange sone not. Once I had a 1941 Champion carburator on a 1962 lark six....

    I've messed with a bunch of these flathead sixes. Although they look similar 1939-1960, they are different. Sometimes even I scratch my head on all the parts differences. Once I picked up a 1952 engine that was in a 1960 lark and coupled to the factory lark bellhousing and automatic! I still can't figure out how somebody made that work!

    quote:Originally posted by Vance



    Yes, I am slowly finding this out. So far I have found that the oil pick up tube, oil pan, back engine plate won't fit.
    Will the head, rods, manifold, front timing cover, flywheel, dampner fit the 1950 block. Never any thing easy when people change out engines with incorrect years etc. Thank you for all the information. The rods look the same length as the 1950 one. Just wonder if there is any other difference than the length to look for.

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  • Dwain G.
    replied
    Of all the parts listed in your last post, only the rods and damper are the same part numbers between the two engines (watch left and right offsets). The head will fit and will give you a little compression boost. The manifolds will fit, but check close for provisions for carb. linkage that may be on one manifold and not the other. The flywheel will fit, but you need to use the older one if you are keeping a six volt system (different teeth on starter ring gear). The timing covers will not interchange.


    Dwain G.

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  • Vance
    replied
    Yes, I am slowly finding this out. So far I have found that the oil pick up tube, oil pan, back engine plate won't fit.
    Will the head, rods, manifold, front timing cover, flywheel, dampner fit the 1950 block. Never any thing easy when people change out engines with incorrect years etc. Thank you for all the information. The rods look the same length as the 1950 one. Just wonder if there is any other difference than the length to look for.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dwain G.
    replied
    I hate to discourge you, but you're probably going to run into many more frustrations in this engine change, especially when you try to swap internal parts. Earlier I mentioned 'design changes'. In 1955 Stude increased the stroke of this engine by 3/8". This necessitated making the block about that much taller. When they changed back to the 4" stroke in 1959, all other changes remained. So that means things like the front and rear engine plates, cam and crank timing gears, oil pans, etc, won't exchange. The cam is the same, but the gears are different.


    Dwain G.

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  • Vance
    replied
    Thank you for the information.
    Here is what I am attempting to do. Take a 1950 block casting number 524807-5 with the cam, valves, pistons and crank that are in this block and install it in my 1950 champ.
    .
    Then remove a block with number 1548965-6 that is in my 1950 Champ now. I would like to use the rods, oil pan, flywheel, damper, head, starter, and generator on the 1950 numbered block if possible. Per early info, this block is a 1959-1960.
    Just trying to install another engine that is the correct year and replace the one that was not a 1950. As I said before, I already have found that the oil pick up tube and the pistons are not the same.
    Thanks for the information.

    Leave a comment:


  • 52-fan
    replied
    Before you get too far into this project you need to be sure that the bellhousing you want to use will bolt up to the new engine. There are differences that could throw you a curve and it would be better to know in advance of spending money and time on an engine that won't fit.


    1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona, both w/overdrive.Searcy,Arkansas
    "I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."

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  • Dwain G.
    replied
    The rods are the same, but the older pan won't fit the newer engine. In 1955 Stude made several major design changes to the basic engine, one of which was increasing the size of the main bearings which made the main caps larger, which required a new oil pan.


    Dwain G.

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  • Vance
    replied
    Thank you very much for the information. What I am doing is I am pulling out the old engine and installing another engine { the correct engine as per the block number you gave me the year on}. I am using the valves and cam on the new engine and the pistons.
    The only thing items I am planning to use from the bad engine are the rods, head, dist, gen., starter, oil pan, flywheel. I have already found that one item will not change as the oil pick up tube on the bad engine has a 5/8 stem into the block and I need one that is 3/8 inch with two bolts to use. Trying to find one at this time.
    Do you think I will have any problems using the old oil pan and the other items I listed. Would the rods be the same.
    Any help is appreciated.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dwain G.
    replied
    The pad has to be there, it's part of the block casting that has been machined off smooth to make a place for the serial number to be stamped. It's at the upper front CORNER of the left (DRIVER'S) side of the block. If it's blank, that means it was a replacement engine.
    The second block you have is also a flathead six, used in 1959-60. The slipper pistons in it are replacements, meaning the engine has been overhauled or rebuilt at some time in its past.


    Dwain G.

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  • Vance
    replied
    The pad you told me about is missing. Do you happen to also know what year another block I have with casting number 1548965-6. It has pistons that are shorter than the other block has. The 524807-5 block has pistons with a full round bottom and are amomost 3" in length and look like the pistons in the Stude repair manual book. The other block with the 1548965-6 has shorter pistons with very short skirts and measure only approx 2 1/2 inches in length.
    Thsnks

    Leave a comment:

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