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**studebaker-R2-4-me** · 08-29-2008, 08:40 PM

Well, I've been under that car 5 times tonight. Jacking it up, setting up jack stands and adjusting the pressure control rod.

I started out extending the rod's clevis two full turns- still buzzes. I Came back and retracting the clevis four turns back - still buzzes. Ok my the pressure is high enough. Back to the shop. Set it back to the starting position and extended 4 full turns. Went for a test drive. Still buzzes and shifts way too early. Ok that didn't work either. Maybe I need more pressure, retracted the clevis 8 turns. Confused yet? Went for a test drive. Now she's shifting hard into drive and still buzzes. Back to the shop. I extend the rod to reduce pressure 4 turns and back to where I started. Well that was a waste of time and have a couple of burns on my hands just to tick me off.

Haven't gone for a test drive. Going to pour a Jack instead. I not talking to Jacqueline and will deal with her in the morning!

Any clues would be a help.

1964 GT Hawk R2 Clone
Oakville, Ontario.

Hamilton Chapter
See you at the PSMCDR in Stanton Michigan September 12& 13

**Dwain G.** · 08-29-2008, 09:13 PM

The buzzing that Jon addresses is very rapid, more equal to engine speed. I would describe a 'click' as slower in frequency, more equal to driveshaft speed. You have no noise until the car is actually moving? Might want to look at the u-joints.

Dwain G.

**StudeRich** · 08-29-2008, 11:50 PM

The buzzing is also characteristic of fluid problems, #1 is LOW, or clogged filter, wrong fluid.
None of which seem likely in any of your cars, as you seem pretty particular about them, but could I have missed any fluid related items?

You do have a good brand of Type F or a Synthetic in it right? I wouldn't think you would use any of that "Universal" crap.

Rear engine mounts properly installed, and include a 1/2" spacer on the drivers side?

StudeRich -Studebakers Northwest Ferndale, WA

**wcarroll@outrageous.net** · 08-30-2008, 01:52 AM

I would double check those mounts as StudeRich suggested -especially if you've been practicing your launches for the PSMCD's!!!

I've had a couple brand new ones fail shortly after installation, causing misalignment and the buzzing/clicking tranny situation...

http://community.webshots.com/user/s...host=community

**studebaker-R2-4-me** · 09-03-2008, 11:45 AM

I checked out the rear mount and all appears fine. I've got about 2000 miles on the entire drive train. I purchased a HD high stall torque converter from Bob Helm and a rebuilt powershift from Don Simmons last year. I installed Dextron 3 for my choice of transmission fluid this spring when I started the whole shebang up.

I decided to change the fluid this morning to Type F with Studerich's recommendation.

The Dextron 3 fluid was a tad smelly and not as pink as I would have liked.

Last year when I purchased the Torque converter, it had a wicked smell and little fluid that was in it was quite dark when I received it from Bob Helm. I flushed it several times with Dextron 3 prior to installation. This smell was similar to the oil that I just removed from the transmission only not near as bad.

I just took the Hawk out for a quick spin. The noise is gone and actually shifts better now than before.

Hopefully I have resolved the issue and I am now under the assumption that there may have been some residual oil in the torque converter from the get go tainting the system.

I am going to check the transmission fluid after coming back from the Pure Stock Drags and see if it is still over heating the fluid.

Thanks for the info.

Allen

1964 GT Hawk R2 Clone
Oakville, Ontario.

Hamilton Chapter
See you at the PSMCDR in Stanton Michigan September 12& 13

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