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  • Gas Gauge Test?

    Is there a way to Ohm or test the gas gauge for a 1949, 2r5 truck? It is a 3 wire gas gauge with a 2 wire sending unit. the gauge is reading full with all 3 wires off of the gas gauge.

    Thanks
    Gary

  • #2
    Gary, the shop manual says if the wire from sender is removed from the gauge and it does not go to empty the gauge is bad. This is for single wire sending units, there is no procedure for 2 wire sender units listed. It stands to reason however that your gauge also should return to empty with wires disconnected.
    Frank van Doorn
    Omaha, Ne.
    1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
    1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
    1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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    • #3
      Price, a little more info..new gauge, sender, wiring harness, reattached wires after restoration?

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      • #4
        Here's the page from the shop manual:
        ____________________________________




        Dwain G.
        "Burning Bridges...Lost Forevermore"......

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        • #5
          Dwain G. - Thanks for the manual page,it's a big help. I know it takes a lot of time to look things up for other people, I appreciate the help.

          barnlark - It is an old gauge, sender and wiring harness. Not yet restored. I'm just starting the process. Everything is still old and original!! The weird part is that when I got the vehicle the guage read empty, then for some reason it read 3/4 even with all 3 wires unhooked and now it reads full with no wires to the guage. I'm an old Mopar Tech. when a Mopar has the wires unhooked the guage goes to empty. I'm an old dog learning new tricks! Thanks to all for the replies!

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          • #6
            My neighbor is also a Mopar guy and we had a talk about the non pulse version of gauges that Stude made...at least on my Lark. Apples and oranges, though. My gauge was buried on full when hooked up and dropped to empty without power. That Dwain G. has the answers to help you and your 6 volt '49, right there, though. I'm printing that one out for future reference asap. [^]

            The reason I asked about the place from which you're starting is the amount of trouble shooting needed and maybe where to start. Bypassing the harness is where I started and just bench tested the gauge to my power source/ground with the sender out of the tank and with new wires to each. I had two or three extra gauges and another sender, so I checked them all against each other; that way you can physically move the sending arm. The gauges all reacted very slowly, so I learned to be patient. After I got it working I filled the tank and bent the sending arm down until it read a proper full. Again, early post war truck guys are much better qualified for your application and may have a better plan of attack. If you're a tech, you know all of that, though!

            If you want to leave it all in the truck, you can just run long test leads to eliminate the harness and go from there. A good ground to everything seems to be the common denominator in getting a good reading. Gauge parts seem to be plentiful, but I hope you get the gauge to work without that effort...good luck and keep us posted.


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