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  • #16
    I guess I didn't make my original question clear! What I need is the sequence for putting the front clip together- I know the fenders need to be aligned with the hood- if someone could give me the step-by-step. The rear quarters and doors are aligned very nicely, thanks to this forum.
    One problem is my lower valance, or scoop was pretty messed up (bent and twisted) I've put quite a few hours into it, but I don't trust that it's exactly the shape it'e supposed to be- I would rather fit it to the fenders than vice versa.

    Gallivan
    57 Golden Hawk
    Golden, CO
    Gallivan
    57 Golden Hawk
    Golden, CO

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    • #17
      I've only done this once, but what I did was put on the radiator mount, making sure the right number of spacers were under it, then hanging each inner/outer fender, one at a time on it, attaching the back with two or three screws, of the 6. All screws go in loose, not tight. Bring the hood down and adjust as needed, pry up, down forward, etc, to get everything where you want it, then put in all screws and tighten. Now put the air scoop on. Adjust as needed.

      My 55 had a panel between the fenders in front of the radiator, not sure if this applies in your case or not.

      [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
      Tom Bredehoft
      '53 Commander Coupe
      '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
      (Under Construction 436 hrs.)
      '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
      All Indiana built cars

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      • #18
        Here is a copy of an e-mail to another SDC Forum Member addressing this issue: C/K's are much the same process...

        >I also had a body fit question on my Lark Convertible: My new hood, driver's side fender and front panel do not fit as nicely as I'd like from the original body shop paint job last year. I had a nos front panel painted with my new hood and would like to line them all up correctly. I've heard of getting the hood on first and then adjusting from there. Have you put together that car often enough to have any tips?
        >
        Yes, I have done several 59-64 Lark-types. I am usually working with a blank-slate (entire doghouse removed)..so your MMV.
        I install the COWL RUBBER first- then the hood , with a shop-broom as a prop-rod , center it and get a good hood-to-cowl gap. Make it as tight as possible without the hood hitting the cowl center when opened. I would install the parking light assemblies before the next step... I bolt together the entire doghouse getting the best fender/grill panel alignment as possible, but leave the fender-to-radiator support bolts a little loose. Don't put the radiator or grille in yet- you'll need the access for adjusting the hood gap at the front- especially if you don't have a hood ornament. Install the fender-to-hood bumpers. I install this whole thing as a unit and make my adjustments at the rear fender/cowl/door gap/hood corners. Use blue painters tape to cover the front of the hood and grille-panel contact areas. Then I install the radiator support washers and begin the task of aligning the fenders to the hood. Check often by carefully closing the hood. Once you have the fenders centered and at the right height (rad-support).. start tweeking the alignment with the other bolts starting at the radiator support and working out to each side. The last ones to install/tighten are the inner fender-to-cowl brace bolts.


        >The passenger side door/ fender gap is great, but the driver's side needs help at the top of the door gap toward the door to tighten it up.
        >
        >
        Leave the rear bolts of the pass-fender alone, but loosen the pass-fender to cowl brace bolts.
        On the drivers side: Loosen the inner fender-to-cowl brace bolts first. Then, If tightening the upper fender-to-hinge pillar bolt doesn't pull it in enough... you may have to remove the upper (2) rubber shims and substitute thinner ones. If you still can't get a good gap- remove the upper shim. If that still doesn't work... you may have to move the door forward slightly and try again.



        2nd e-mail:
        >
        >
        >Great help, Ray, thank you. I will pull the front grill panel off and work on the fit soon. My new painted one comes back this week. The hood already closes nicely at the cowl. Of course if you raise it too high the points of the hood will hit the fenders back there,
        >
        OK... leave the hinges etc alone then...

        >but it seems to sit high on the driver's side by the grill panel a bit.
        >
        Sounds like you need a shim under that sides rad support

        >That may be the original grill panel that had extensive work on it and may be just a little sick on that side. The gap is not good. Can I adjust the fender/door gap on that side before I get the front grill panel back
        >
        Yes... as in the earlier e-mail, the 1st alignment to the doghouse is the door/cowl/fender gaps.. with temporary shimming of the radiator support to relieve any stress on the top fender/hinge pillar bolts.

        >and tweak the grill panel to the hood later?
        >
        I would wait and install the new grille-panel before working on any gaps

        <font color=
        Ray

        www.raylinrestoration.com
        Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

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        • #19
          Any suggestions on welding up the doghouse from individual parts?

          ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
          Tom - Mulberry, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

          Tom - Bradenton, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
          1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

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          • #20
            quote:Originally posted by Swifster

            Any suggestions on welding up the doghouse from individual parts?
            HUH? Welding what? A complete front end? Nothing is welded originally- other than the fenders spot-welded to the inner fenders and front headlight panels (forget what Stude called them).
            If your talking about that- it's a piece of cake...

            I can see no sane reason to weld the doghouse together unless you plan on a tilt-front end.

            Ray


            Specializing in Studebaker Restoration
            Ray

            www.raylinrestoration.com
            Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

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