Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

63 R2 ignition switch

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • starlightchamp
    replied
    My 63 Hawk also had the bezel turn with the key. I replaced it and the durn thing still turned!
    Finally noticed a shallow boss on bezel that indexed into a small slot in the fiberglas dash hole. That slot had worn to nothing. I built it up with JB Weld,filed a new slot.--all ok now.

    ....Dick Curtis
    Santa Barbara

    Leave a comment:


  • stugatsr2
    replied
    Thanks guys,Ill' keep you posted

    Leave a comment:


  • showbizkid
    replied
    In fact, JNP, many guys here recommend applying shrink-tubing or some other insulating material to the terminals on the ignition switch, just to be on the safe side. (That big red one carries full battery power!)


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
    www.studebakersandiego.com

    Leave a comment:


  • 41 Frank
    replied
    There should be a spring and a plastic spacer that need to be reused depending on what model you are working on. You should not need the new switch and keys if they were functioning ok, just the bezel.

    Frank van Doorn
    1962 GT Hawk 4 speed
    1963 Daytona Conv
    1941 Champion R-2 Rod

    Leave a comment:


  • stugatsr2
    replied
    Thanks guys.I just got a new switch-cyl.-keys from jon myer's.
    I will now order the ret. [bezel] & new spring. If that's all
    I need, I will return the the others.They are very good about
    returns within 30 days.When I remove the old switch,what other
    parts are with it,& can they be re-used?
    Again thanks,JNP

    Leave a comment:


  • BobPalma
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by stugatsr2

    My ign.switch is very sloppy,it moves when turning the key.
    Do I need a new switch,& how difficult is it to replace.
    Anyone have a diagram for doing this? Should I also have
    new cylinder&keys? Thanks,JNP
    JNP: Replace that retainer quickly, as has been hinted at. It can fracture and drop the switch back against the dash brace, grounding the center stud and causing a fire.

    The replacement retainer is of a new and stronger design. It is readily available from Studebaker International. It is their Part #1549685W and only $20. Easily installed, too. BP

    Leave a comment:


  • mbstude
    replied
    I had to replace the bezel on the '62 Lark I'm driving. Always remember to unhook the battery. I got shocked a time or two. [xx(] I'm just glad there wasn't a fire!

    Matthew Burnette
    Hazlehurst, GA


    Leave a comment:


  • showbizkid
    replied
    And no, you don't need a new cylinder + keys - just the bezel, which contains the locking tabs that secure the cylinder to the dash.


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
    www.studebakersandiego.com

    Leave a comment:


  • 41 Frank
    replied
    Best to replace the bezel right away as the switch can short wiring against metal under dash and start a fire. Ask me how I know. My Lark had this problem and burned some wiring. Bezel is easy to replace.

    Leave a comment:


  • JDP
    replied
    Sounds like the retainer is broken or slipping for some reason.

    JDP/Maryland

    Leave a comment:


  • stugatsr2
    started a topic 63 R2 ignition switch

    63 R2 ignition switch

    My ign.switch is very sloppy,it moves when turning the key.
    Do I need a new switch,& how difficult is it to replace.
    Anyone have a diagram for doing this? Should I also have
    new cylinder&keys? Thanks,JNP
Working...
X