63 R2 ignition switch

[stugatsr2]

My ign.switch is very sloppy,it moves when turning the key.
Do I need a new switch,& how difficult is it to replace.
Anyone have a diagram for doing this? Should I also have
new cylinder&keys? Thanks,JNP

[JDP]

Sounds like the retainer is broken or slipping for some reason.

JDP/Maryland

[41 Frank]

Best to replace the bezel right away as the switch can short wiring against metal under dash and start a fire. Ask me how I know. My Lark had this problem and burned some wiring. Bezel is easy to replace.

[showbizkid]

And no, you don't need a new cylinder + keys - just the bezel, which contains the locking tabs that secure the cylinder to the dash.


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
www.studebakersandiego.com

[mbstude]

I had to replace the bezel on the '62 Lark I'm driving. Always remember to unhook the battery. I got shocked a time or two. [xx(] I'm just glad there wasn't a fire!

Matthew Burnette
Hazlehurst, GA

[BobPalma]

quote:Originally posted by stugatsr2

My ign.switch is very sloppy,it moves when turning the key.
Do I need a new switch,& how difficult is it to replace.
Anyone have a diagram for doing this? Should I also have
new cylinder&keys? Thanks,JNP

JNP: Replace that retainer quickly, as has been hinted at. It can fracture and drop the switch back against the dash brace, grounding the center stud and causing a fire.

The replacement retainer is of a new and stronger design. It is readily available from Studebaker International. It is their Part #1549685W and only $20. Easily installed, too. BP

[stugatsr2]

Thanks guys.I just got a new switch-cyl.-keys from jon myer's.
I will now order the ret. [bezel] & new spring. If that's all
I need, I will return the the others.They are very good about
returns within 30 days.When I remove the old switch,what other
parts are with it,& can they be re-used?
Again thanks,JNP

[41 Frank]

There should be a spring and a plastic spacer that need to be reused depending on what model you are working on. You should not need the new switch and keys if they were functioning ok, just the bezel.

Frank van Doorn
1962 GT Hawk 4 speed
1963 Daytona Conv
1941 Champion R-2 Rod

[showbizkid]

In fact, JNP, many guys here recommend applying shrink-tubing or some other insulating material to the terminals on the ignition switch, just to be on the safe side. (That big red one carries full battery power!)


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
www.studebakersandiego.com

[stugatsr2]

Thanks guys,Ill' keep you posted

[starlightchamp]

My 63 Hawk also had the bezel turn with the key. I replaced it and the durn thing still turned!
Finally noticed a shallow boss on bezel that indexed into a small slot in the fiberglas dash hole. That slot had worn to nothing. I built it up with JB Weld,filed a new slot.--all ok now.

....Dick Curtis
Santa Barbara