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  • Hawk radiator

    My 56 GH radiator is "hot" to the touch on the inlet (drivers side) cool to the touch in the center as well as the outlet(passenger side).

    Temp guage is pegged at 240, this is not a thermostat issue we have changed it and even run it with no thermostat. I've had all the freeze plugs out and power flushed the block.........

    Is it a radiator issue????

    It is an addiction!
    It is an addiction!

  • #2
    Sounds like the radiator is plugged. I had a similar issue on a 90 VW Passat I once owned.

    Wayen K.
    Libby, MT
    61 Hawk (Project)

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    • #3
      are you sure it's really hot? check it with an infrared thermometer. Hawk gauges may read hot if they're not well grounded.

      nate

      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel
      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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      • #4
        It sounds like the radiator is working VERY well if you can feel the difference in temp. between the hot Top inlet and the cooler Lower outlet! [^]

        I would suspect the gauge, an oven thermometer in the filler neck should prove the accuracy of the gauge.

        StudeRich
        Studebakers Northwest
        Ferndale, WA
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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        • #5
          You need to check your water pump. I had a car do that last year. It turned out that the pump impeller had come loose on the shaft and was not circulating the water. The radiator should never be hot to the touch on top and cool to the touch on the bottom. Check the water pump. You have to pull it off to check this, cuz it may not feel like its broken just by checking the shaft play from the outside. It may not be leaking from the weep hole either. Even an auxiliary fan won't fix this problem. Do not drive the car till you get this fixed or you will burn up the engine. Good luck.

          sals54
          sals54

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          • #6
            I've put a new water pump in it and I've checked the coolant temp with a candy thermometer and it is about 230 degrees. I've changed guages,sending unit and all the hoses. The only thing not changed was the radiator. We checked the engine with an infrared thermometer and can't find a "hot spot" where there might be a blockage also.

            It is an addiction!
            It is an addiction!

            Comment


            • #7
              I have one time found that the radiator hose or hoses will be restricted on the inside not allowing complete circulation. Possibly just one but I have known them to collapse on the inside. Remove and check. Then put a can of powdered sani-flush toilet cleaner to your cooling system. It should clean the rad and cooling system a bit. A fleet mechanic swore by this practice. Said it kept the cooling system passage ways crap free. I have done this every couple three years. Remove anti freeze first and fill with water and crystals. Run for 1/2 hr, then open bottom drain of radiator, stick a hose in the filler and run till water is clear coming from the drain. No chit!! jimmijim
              sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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              • #8
                I think I would pull the radiator Joe and have a reputable radiator shop do a flow test on it. It seems that you have covered most bases otherwise.

                Frank van Doorn
                1962 GT Hawk 4 speed
                1963 Daytona Conv
                1941 Champion R-2 Rod
                Frank van Doorn
                Omaha, Ne.
                1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
                1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
                1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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                • #9
                  It is at the radiator shop and he said it was "a little slow". It is being re-cored and I'll install Friday evening. Let all know the result.....

                  It is an addiction!
                  It is an addiction!

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                  • #10
                    quote:Originally posted by jbwhttail

                    It is at the radiator shop and he said it was "a little slow". It is being re-cored and I'll install Friday evening. Let all know the result.....
                    While you have good access to the water pump, I'd go ahead, pull it and inspect the impeller ...especially if I knew it was made of Bakelite, not metal.

                    In addition, have you checked the hoses at full operating temperature AND higher REV's to make sure they are not collapsing[?]

                    Good Luck!



                    <h4>Last Man Standing in Studebaker Indiana</h4>

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                    • #11
                      Please take the time to check the water pump. The water pump that I had trouble with was a rebuilt pump which did not seat the impeller onto the shaft properly. Its an easy fix with the radiator out. Keep us posted. This is great education.

                      sals54
                      sals54

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                      • #12
                        I've checked the hoses and they are not at fault. When I bought the car it was running hot, when we took the car down for restoration we pulled the pan to replace front and rear seals and found that at one time the engine had come apart and had been rebuilt. There were still parts of a rod in the oil pump screen. Rebuild an engine but not clean the oil pump screen???, no, just place a washer in the pump to beef up the oil pressure reading.......but that is another story. Joe Hall who helped me install the seals told me the pistons used in the rebuild could cause the engine to run hot for awhile,I just don't want to hurt a number matching engine.

                        I'll check the water pump again as as you guys said it is easy to get to at this point. When I replaced the water pump before some of the impellers were broken, talking to the older gentleman who is rebuilding the radiator he told me that people broke them off to slow the water flow years ago. They thought it helped cooling.

                        Sal, explain to me what I should look for in excessive shaft play.....or what you mean by seating the impeller. The radiator wont be back until Friday.

                        Thanks in advance.....

                        It is an addiction!
                        It is an addiction!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'm not Sal, Joe, but I'm gonna take a shot at seating the impeller.

                          Original design had the impeller just missing the back of the pump cavity. While just missing is a relative term, they specified the distance from the mounting face of the pump to the edge of the impeller, hoping that if everything was right, there would be less than 1/32 clearance between the impeller and the back of the cavity. In a perfect world, we would be able to measure (with a dial caliper) the distance in thousands of a inch from the face to the back, and set the impeller (allowing for a gasket) withing .010 to .015 of the back. There was a time, over two years ago, when new or newly rebuilt pumps might have clearance well in excess of the 1/32 setting. The one in my '53, new in 2000, was at .140, not pumping efficiently. The manufacturers have been made aware of this and most vendors either check or set their pumps before delivery.

                          I think this setting is what Sal had in mind.

                          [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar.jpg[/img=left]
                          Tom Bredehoft
                          '53 Commander Coupe
                          '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
                          (Under Construction) 307 hrs.
                          '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
                          All Indiana built cars

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                          • #14
                            Thanks Tom B:

                            I checked the impellers to the face plate of the pump and found the distance more closely to 3/32". I adjusted it back to 1/32". I want to be sure what you are specifying, the impellers are to be 1/32 from water pump plate, not the back of water manifold that houses the pump.

                            By the way the pump I purchased is from Packard Farms and the impellers are metal and not bakolite. All are in great shape.....

                            I know I'm asking a lot of questions but I'm tired of dealing with a heat problem.

                            It is an addiction!
                            It is an addiction!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yeah, the back of the pump cavity, it's conic, parallel the 'face' of the impeller. IIRC, the specs were to have the two surfaces .032 apart, plus or minus .015.

                              Heat problem....I had the block rodded out, professionally, have a recored radiator and a six blade fan with 5/16 clearance on the shroud on my 53 coupe. Still, when the temp is 90, the car runs near 200. I guess I live with it (or don't drive when it's too hot to drive without AC.)

                              [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar.jpg[/img=left]
                              Tom Bredehoft
                              '53 Commander Coupe
                              '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
                              (Under Construction) 307 hrs.
                              '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
                              All Indiana built cars

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