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How do I get the engine to sit in the mounts?

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  • barnlark
    replied
    Congrats Clark! Always good to wait for everyone to chime in here. I take it the correct rear mounts were in and you didn't need to swap them.
    I'm with Ratliff... I didn't drop anything but the cross member to get my engine and trans in either of my convertibles. Of course the exhaust went on later. The suspension looks great, btw, but I hope those aren't black widow webs down there!

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  • showbizkid
    replied
    Good news! Following the directions you all gave, I have the engine sitting squarely on all four mounts now.

    As suggested, I loosened up all the mounting nuts at all four corners, put some lift on the block with the hoist, and rolled my floor jack under the transmission pan. I raised the engine enough with the hoist for the mount studs to clear the brackets, lifted the transmission a few inches, and voila! the front mounts were nearly in the holes.

    Since I was doing a one-man job, I wedged a piece of wood between the head and firewall to push the studs forward a touch more, lowered the hoist and bolted it all back together.

    Thanks very much for all the advice and encouragement!


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
    www.studebakersandiego.com

    Leave a comment:


  • showbizkid
    replied
    My car is a '63 Lark, John. If it helps any, I rebuilt my front end while the engine was out; everything was installed and bolted down before the engine went back in.


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
    www.studebakersandiego.com

    Leave a comment:


  • John Ratliff
    replied
    What model and year of car are we talking about here?
    I didn't remove any of the steering linkage when we put the engine back in the Hawk. Did I do something wrong?[}]

    John Ratliff

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  • jackb
    replied
    Clark: The bellcrank pin is pinch-locked into the bellcrank by exactly that: a large pinch bolt, that if I recall requires 60+ lbs of torque to lock it home through the external star washer! (everybody should check this torque from time to time) You need to rotate the wheels some in one direction to expose the head of the pinch bolt that you access with a 6-inch socket extension, and remove the bellcrank.... there's more....You now need to remove the 4 nuts that hold the assy in the front crossmember, and drop it. You might have fun removing the accumulated gunk and junk sitting atop the cross rail covering the head of the bolts. I have had success holding these (once very clean!!) with an open end wrench and with the ratchet below on the 4 nuts. The assy. will now drop down ONLY AFTER you remove the zerk fitting that is found on the back side of the front crossmember.....At this point in your present install, the bellcrank may have enough space with the engine up for removal.....usually you need to : unpinch, drop 4 nuts, remove zerk, then drop the pin and slide bellcrank backward and down.....

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  • buddymander
    replied
    Yes, the center pin drops down after you loosen the clamp bolt on top. But, hey, loosen the top bolt on those front mounts to get the lower stud to tilt forward enough to drop in.

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  • showbizkid
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by jackb

    ......of course, for any newbies here: you are supposed to have removed the tie rods and exhaust pipes "before" dropping the engine in there.....
    Well, we thought we had the pipes tied up out of the way, but nuh-uh.

    Drifting off the topic now, but how in the world would you get the bellcrank in or out with the engine still in the car? There's no clearance there that I can see to get it past the pan. Unless you drop the center pin out?


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
    www.studebakersandiego.com

    Leave a comment:


  • jackb
    replied
    ..my bad....I meant the bellcrank, then the rods slip away withit...

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  • N8N
    replied
    you don't actually need to remove the tie rods; if you have a non-PS car you can simply remove the bellcrank from the center pivot and move it back and down. If you find you need more clearance you can drop the center pivot out of the crossmember. you actually get more room to work this way than simply by removing the tie rods, and then you don't have to buy new tie rod boots.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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  • jackb
    replied
    ......of course, for any newbies here: you are supposed to have removed the tie rods and exhaust pipes "before" dropping the engine in there.....

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  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    That's what I was saying with my first reply. Of course, that got lost in reminding me I was full of it regarding the spacer.[xx(]

    BTW, just use a piece of wood (2X4) that spans the tranny oil pan to lift it. If you take the engine's weight with the hoist, there won't be much pressure at all when you jack the tranny. You won't hurt anything.

    Miscreant Studebaker nut in California's central valley.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President two door

    Leave a comment:


  • showbizkid
    replied
    Dang... Dave, maybe that explains why you were having such a hard time getting that trans mount lined up right...

    So I apply some lift to the block with the hoist... should I put a floor jack under the trans and lift? If so, where do I lift from??


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
    www.studebakersandiego.com

    Leave a comment:


  • Studeman
    replied
    It is possible to reverse the automatic transmission mounts. If you do, the front motor mount studs will not line up correctly. (the trans mounts are NOT symmetrical, there is a Left/Right)
    If in question, remove the trans mounts, set the engine in the correct holes, then reinstall the trans mounts where they line up correctly.

    Ray


    Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

    Leave a comment:


  • showbizkid
    replied
    I remember cross-checking the part #s before those rears were installed and I'mpretty sure they're right... Driver's side front mount lines up OK.


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
    www.studebakersandiego.com

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeDave57
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

    Well Dave, what ABOUT the rear mount's orientation?

    Miscreant Studebaker nut in California's central valley.
    It's been a few months (or more) but I'm pretty sure we put them in the rear.
    I kid 'cuz I'm a kidder...

    StudeDave [8D]

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