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How do I get the engine to sit in the mounts?

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  • #16
    That's what I was saying with my first reply. Of course, that got lost in reminding me I was full of it regarding the spacer.[xx(]

    BTW, just use a piece of wood (2X4) that spans the tranny oil pan to lift it. If you take the engine's weight with the hoist, there won't be much pressure at all when you jack the tranny. You won't hurt anything.

    Miscreant Studebaker nut in California's central valley.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President two door

    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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    • #17
      ......of course, for any newbies here: you are supposed to have removed the tie rods and exhaust pipes "before" dropping the engine in there.....

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      • #18
        you don't actually need to remove the tie rods; if you have a non-PS car you can simply remove the bellcrank from the center pivot and move it back and down. If you find you need more clearance you can drop the center pivot out of the crossmember. you actually get more room to work this way than simply by removing the tie rods, and then you don't have to buy new tie rod boots.

        nate

        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel
        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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        • #19
          ..my bad....I meant the bellcrank, then the rods slip away withit...

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          • #20
            quote:Originally posted by jackb

            ......of course, for any newbies here: you are supposed to have removed the tie rods and exhaust pipes "before" dropping the engine in there.....
            Well, we thought we had the pipes tied up out of the way, but nuh-uh.

            Drifting off the topic now, but how in the world would you get the bellcrank in or out with the engine still in the car? There's no clearance there that I can see to get it past the pan. Unless you drop the center pin out?


            [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

            Clark in San Diego
            '63 F2/Lark Standard
            http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
            www.studebakersandiego.com

            Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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            • #21
              Yes, the center pin drops down after you loosen the clamp bolt on top. But, hey, loosen the top bolt on those front mounts to get the lower stud to tilt forward enough to drop in.

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              • #22
                Clark: The bellcrank pin is pinch-locked into the bellcrank by exactly that: a large pinch bolt, that if I recall requires 60+ lbs of torque to lock it home through the external star washer! (everybody should check this torque from time to time) You need to rotate the wheels some in one direction to expose the head of the pinch bolt that you access with a 6-inch socket extension, and remove the bellcrank.... there's more....You now need to remove the 4 nuts that hold the assy in the front crossmember, and drop it. You might have fun removing the accumulated gunk and junk sitting atop the cross rail covering the head of the bolts. I have had success holding these (once very clean!!) with an open end wrench and with the ratchet below on the 4 nuts. The assy. will now drop down ONLY AFTER you remove the zerk fitting that is found on the back side of the front crossmember.....At this point in your present install, the bellcrank may have enough space with the engine up for removal.....usually you need to : unpinch, drop 4 nuts, remove zerk, then drop the pin and slide bellcrank backward and down.....

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                • #23
                  What model and year of car are we talking about here?
                  I didn't remove any of the steering linkage when we put the engine back in the Hawk. Did I do something wrong?[}]

                  John Ratliff

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                  • #24
                    My car is a '63 Lark, John. If it helps any, I rebuilt my front end while the engine was out; everything was installed and bolted down before the engine went back in.


                    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

                    Clark in San Diego
                    '63 F2/Lark Standard
                    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
                    www.studebakersandiego.com

                    Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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                    • #25
                      Good news! Following the directions you all gave, I have the engine sitting squarely on all four mounts now.

                      As suggested, I loosened up all the mounting nuts at all four corners, put some lift on the block with the hoist, and rolled my floor jack under the transmission pan. I raised the engine enough with the hoist for the mount studs to clear the brackets, lifted the transmission a few inches, and voila! the front mounts were nearly in the holes.

                      Since I was doing a one-man job, I wedged a piece of wood between the head and firewall to push the studs forward a touch more, lowered the hoist and bolted it all back together.

                      Thanks very much for all the advice and encouragement!


                      [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

                      Clark in San Diego
                      '63 F2/Lark Standard
                      http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
                      www.studebakersandiego.com

                      Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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                      • #26
                        Congrats Clark! Always good to wait for everyone to chime in here. I take it the correct rear mounts were in and you didn't need to swap them.
                        I'm with Ratliff... I didn't drop anything but the cross member to get my engine and trans in either of my convertibles. Of course the exhaust went on later. The suspension looks great, btw, but I hope those aren't black widow webs down there!

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