Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

'63 Avanti questions for the "tech heads"

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • '63 Avanti questions for the "tech heads"

    When I wash my Avanti it leaks water inside, it leaks from just about
    everywhere, but the two most annoying are the rear side 1/4 windows.
    I just move the high pressure washer BY the window and it shoots in
    like theere isnt any rubber - but there is! How do you adjust these?

    Is there a tech link on HOW to check the Hog Troughs to see if they
    are bad, good or fixable? I see pics of an Avanti frame that looks
    better then mine, and the caption is look at this! I did, and I didnt
    think it was that bad for a 40+ year old car - what am I missing?

    The fuel return line has been disconnected on this Avanti for the last
    7 years, when I found a pool of gas under the car, and a badly rusted
    return line. I capped it at both ends on the car, and just recently
    bent in some new steel line. Its a no brainer at the back, but the
    front is another story, I plugged the hose bib threaded hole, but have
    misplaced the hose bib now. Is this a metered part? Or will a local
    parts house be able to supply a bib to fit a rubber union hose?

    The stock fuel pump is leaking, I would like to get rid of it, I ran
    an electric pump at the front of my Hawk for years, and pulled it off
    the Hawk prior to putting it in storage. The output of the stock pump
    is where the "t" is for the return line, would a pressure regulator
    be worth while putting on the return line AND the line to the carb, so
    that the pump isnt just returning fuel to the tank, and staving the
    engine. At a glance the other weekend, it looked like an odd setup.

    Thanks for your input.

    Tom

    1963 Studebaker Avanti, 102,000, custom made brake brackets to mount 1998 Mustang GT 4 wheel disc brakes (soon to get 13" Cobra front brakes, 2003 Mustang Cobra 17" wheels, GM altenator, will be getting : 97 Camaro Z28 tan leather seats, 97 Camaro Z28 T-56 6-speed trans, Ported 'R3' style Avanti heads with stainless full flow valves, 'R3' 276 duration cam w/chrysler solid lifters, shortened push rods, aluminum cam gear, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires, waiting in the garage.
    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

  • #2
    Welcome to Avanti world. You can make a Avanti water tight given enough time and money, mostly all new rubber and some sealer will do it.
    Easy hog trought tests:

    Bang on them with your fist or a rubber mallet to check for rust. If they pass that test, flood the base of the windshield air intake and check where the water comes out of the troughs. If it's just at the front and rear drain holes, you're golden, sides and bottom, big trouble.
    The frames usually start to rust in the bottom frame plate, over and behind the rear wheel. The return line is not metered. I don't like electric pumps, but if you must, mount it at the rear and wire it with a oil pressure safety switch because Avanti's burn nicely.

    Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
    Studebaker News Group
    http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
    64 Daytona HT
    64 R2 4 speed Challenger
    63 R2 4 speed GT Black
    63 R2 4 speed GT White
    63 GT Hawk
    63 Avanti
    62 Daytona HT
    53 Coupe


    JDP Maryland

    Comment


    • #3
      quote:Originally posted by JDP
      Bang on them with your fist or a rubber mallet to check for rust. If they pass that test,
      What exactly makes it pass? Its got rust, I havent seen any 40+ year
      old cars not have ANY rust. What am I going to look for that tells me
      that it fails or passes? I pounded on the drivers side one with a
      hammer and had rust come out of the drain hole. The bottom of the hog
      looked solid though, no holes. I found a rust hole at the rear of the
      hog, which is about an inch in diameter, the hole is not at the bottom
      of the hog, but on the end (vertical). I found metal rust flake in
      the hole, but again, the bottom seemed OK, is there supposed to be a
      drain hole at the rear that has just got bigger?

      quote:flood the base of the windshield air intake and check where the water comes out of the troughs. If it's just at the front and rear drain holes, you're golden, sides and bottom, big trouble.
      I will have to try this, will this also flush the crap out of the hogs
      and remove some of the rust flake?

      quote:The frames usually start to rust in the bottom frame plate, over and behind the rear wheel.
      Thats where mine is. The rust got between the bottom plate and the
      "hat" and popped the spot welds. I used "The Motivator" hammer and
      beat on the frame causing a lot of rust to fall to the ground, the
      car doesnt get driven, so this is YEARS of standing rust built up. I
      just found that a friend of mine HAS a spot welder! Should I just
      use the spot welder and reweld the bottom plate, or would it be best
      to remove the plate and treat inside the "hat"? hmmmmm.

      quote:The return line is not metered. I don't like electric pumps, but if you must, mount it at the rear and wire it with a oil pressure safety switch because Avanti's burn nicely.
      Yah .. takes about 5 minutes to burn to the ground huh? I dont like
      mechanical pumps, the tend to always leak, and they also can leak in
      to the engine, and cause an explosive situation! I was thinking about
      having a fuel tank made, with an intank pump and baffles, eventually.
      The original tank started leaking on me YEARS ago, and was pouring a
      decent amount of fuel down the rear seat and pooling in the back seat
      foot wells - not a good situation. I had the tank repaired locally,
      but I just dont trust it. I would like an aluminum or plastic tank.
      The stock mechanical pump is leaking what looks to be fuel, but its
      anyones guess, could be oil, or water .. the car leaks just about all
      the fluids (except brake with the Mustang parts). I am most concerned
      about the fuel leaks obviously, which is why I would like an electric
      pump, when I switched the Hawk over, it never leaked fuel again. I had
      the pump mounted up front, but below the tank height. I was thinking
      about doing that again, was curious what others have done. I dont
      like that the stock tank has a gravity fed line out the bottom, I feel
      that this is quite dangerous. I would like to at the very least add
      a pickup tube into the top, but then we are back to an intank pump.

      Tom
      '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
      Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
      http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
      I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

      Comment


      • #4
        IF you have a friend with a spot welder I would just buy new lower plates and redo it. You can probably do a near-factory looking job and will be happier having cleaned up inside the frame hat (or at least I would be)

        Do you have pics of your return line setup? I have seen pics of this before but don't remember where; my parts book only recognizes the return line coming off the fuel filter. I don't have the special fuel filter, so...

        nate

        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        62 Daytona hardtop
        http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel

        Comment


        • #5
          There's a picture of all the fittings on the early Avanti fuel pump in the Avanti Shop Manual. It's only about 1 1/2" square, and pretty dark; but you can see the return line clearly. The fittings look like standard parts, but I've been told repeatedly that there is a restriction in the return line.
          I can verify that the sediment bowl, used on Lark/Hawk "R" engines, and '64 Avantis, has a restriction where the elbow for the return screws in. It's about .040". Being so small, I doubt enough fuel flows into the return line to provide useful cooling to the pump or lines. It would relieve pressure when the engine is shut off; and prevent some flooding when parked hot.
          Since it's higher up in the car, the sediment bowl return is more likely to collect any vapor bubbles and, hopefully, return them to the tank.
          Mike M.

          Comment


          • #6
            OK .. so does the fitting I am missing have a restriction hole or is
            it a standard parts house hose nipple?? I cant imagine that I threw
            it out, but I have not been able to find it. Again, this is the hose
            nipple that comes out of the fitting on the fuel pump that the return
            line hooks too.

            Thanks!

            Tom
            '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
            Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
            http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
            I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: the hog troughs. While I had my car completely apart I took a hole saw and made three holes in the floor just above the troughs. Then I took my shop vac and took out all the flakes. Using 1/2" heater hose with a foam brush on the end I slathered POR15 in there. Once it was dry I coated them with Eastwoods rustproofing. Sealed the holes with the right size rubber plugs and the carpet hides everything. Subsequent maintenance and inspection is easy.

              There were some good sized flakes of rust in there but it's been at least 6 years since I treated them and they have not deteriorated.

              Ernie

              R2 R5388

              Comment


              • #8
                Check your parts engine, didn't I see one of those on there?

                nate

                --
                55 Commander Starlight
                http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
                --
                55 Commander Starlight
                http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                Comment


                • #9
                  N8, he has a early Avanti with the return off the pump, not the filter. It does in fact have a restriction and is plumbed off a T on the inlet side of the pump.


                  Studebaker On The Net
                  http://stude.com
                  Studebaker News Group
                  http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
                  Arnold Md.
                  64 Daytona HT
                  63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
                  63 GT Hawk
                  63 Avanti R1/AC
                  63 Avanti R2/4 speed
                  63 Daytona HT
                  63 Lark 2 dr.
                  62 Lark 2 door
                  62 GT(parts car)
                  60 Lark convert
                  60 Hawk
                  52 Starliner
                  51 Commander
                  JDP Maryland

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Correction: Off the outlet side.


                    Studebaker On The Net
                    http://stude.com
                    Studebaker News Group
                    http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
                    Arnold Md.
                    64 Daytona HT
                    63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
                    63 GT Hawk
                    63 Avanti R1/AC
                    63 Avanti R2/4 speed
                    63 Daytona HT
                    63 Lark 2 dr.
                    62 Lark 2 door
                    62 GT(parts car)
                    60 Lark convert
                    60 Hawk
                    52 Starliner
                    51 Commander
                    JDP Maryland

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I did an Avanti and when I got to the fuel system I called Thibault and he said those fittings are not available and if my memory serves me right he said it needs about a 0.50 hole in the return fitting for a restriction. I just just soldered a fitting shut and drilled a 0.50 thousands hole in it to restrict it and everything works fine.
                      Frank van Doorn
                      Omaha, Ne.
                      1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
                      1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
                      1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        41 Frank .. you have a part number or remember where you got the hose
                        nipple from? I stoped by NAPA and theirs looked a little short.

                        Tom
                        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          sbca96
                          I got the fitting out of a bunch of stuff I had around here, sorry, I don't have the car here so I can't look to see what it looks like.
                          Frank van Doorn
                          Omaha, Ne.
                          1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
                          1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
                          1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            41Frank

                            Do you remember if it was a straight fitting, or an 90 degree angle??

                            Can anyone scan and post the picture of this setup from the manual?

                            Thanks!

                            Tom
                            '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                            Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                            http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                            I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              sbca96

                              All I remember is that it is an off the shelf item, nothing special about it. I can find out this weekend if you want. I would be able to go look at the car this weekend,the guy that owns it is in CA. on business this week. Let me know. Seems like it was 90 degree but not sure.
                              Frank van Doorn
                              Omaha, Ne.
                              1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
                              1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
                              1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X