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Power steering issue - Avanti

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  • Power steering issue - Avanti

    In replacing old with new hoses for my '74 Avanti, I've managed to pop the pittman arm off the steering box but it won't clear the shaft because of that big orange engine. Leaving me right where I started. Is there any way to seperate the arm from the control valve?
    If not, I'll have to loosen the motor mounts and raise it an inch or so. Will the tranny 'give' enough or should I loosen everything?
    Thanks!

    Western Washington, USA

  • #2
    If that's the same Bendix used on the earlier 59-66 models, I guess it's possible but I wouldn't try it. I just replaced the control valve seals and the pitman arm coming off the control valve is the last thing to come off. I'd be afraid of loosing parts, especially the little metal spacer that keeps the seal in place on one end of the valve. Believe me, it's a job you'd much rather do on the workbench than laying under the car.

    Comment


    • #3
      I am going to tackle this job as soon as I get the Camaro damage fixed
      and the car back out of the garage! Of course, I am working on a
      Studebaker Avanti, so I may not have your problem. SO far I have told
      that what your doing will work on a Studebaker. Its weird though, I
      was under the impression that the GM engine is more narrow. I wonder
      why its so close? Careful when jacking up the engine, dont damage
      anything else in the process. Sometimes improperly lifted engines
      can have oil leaks after, as seals are disturbed on the pan! You will
      end up trading one leak for another!![B)]

      Tom
      '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
      Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
      http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
      I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

      Comment


      • #4
        There was room to remove the pitman arm in the Stude version, (even with clutch linkage). I think the starter on a Stude has to be removed. I didn't have to fool with the exhaust, either.
        Is the cast-in oil filter mount in the way on a Chevy engine? Off the top of my head, I suggest raising the engine, rather than working on the valve under the car.
        Since it's so hard to work on, you probably want to replace the seal on the pitman arm shaft while it's apart. Make sure the arm is indexed on the shaft, in the right position, and the valve and reach rod are the specified length. It's important that the box, (steering wheel position), is centered; with the wheels straight ahead.
        Stan Gundry suggests using a Ford pitman arm ball, available at Mustang parts sites I think, in a drilled out Stude pitman arm; to make it easier to work on. The Ford ball has a stud and nut at the arm. It's mentioned in his excellent book.
        Mike M.

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        • #5
          On my Stude at least, the pitman arm won't come off directly unless you twist the front up and to the right, the back down and to the left, have the pitman arm tilted forward and you stick your tongue out like when little kids coloring. On a Stude at least it may be less hassle to remove the starter first. As for removing the pitman arm, I dug around through my dad's old tools and came up with a 1-1/4" Williams wrench shaped like an L. It allowed me to tighten it up later after I'd replaced the starter. To simplify replace the arm correctly, consider taking a little paint brush and dabbing a speck of light colored paint on the back side of the pitman arm and shaft because it's impossible to see the alignment marks on the opposite side with the engine in place. Or at least it is for me with my aging eyes!

          Comment


          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by John Kirchhoff

            If that's the same Bendix used on the earlier 59-66 models, I guess it's possible but I wouldn't try it. I just replaced the control valve seals and the pitman arm coming off the control valve is the last thing to come off. I'd be afraid of loosing parts, especially the little metal spacer that keeps the seal in place on one end of the valve. Believe me, it's a job you'd much rather do on the workbench than laying under the car.
            I have replaced the seals in those control valves a couple of times without removing them from the car, though as John says, it's not a lot of fun. As he notes, the Pitman arm is the last thing to come off -- by that time, you're ready to reasssemble. If you do the disassembly carefully and keep track of how things came apart, putting it back together is relatively easy. Just make sure everything in nice and clean. It is tough on your back, though.

            Skip Lackie
            Skip Lackie

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            • #7
              <<It is tough on your back, though.>> Boy, you got that right, Skip! Had I known I was going to remove the valve (to get to the hoses) I would have waited. I've taken asprin for the muscle aches.
              I'll post a pic of what I'm dealing with later today.
              The chebby motor mounts are a bit more complicated than what I've been used to with the Stude engines, but it looks like one 'crossways' bolt loosened will seperate things. I've been using 4 jack stands and the floor jack under the pivot but still spook being under the car. Don't want me wife to come home and find me resembling the wicked witch of the north...or was that the west? <G>

              Western Washington, USA

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              • #8
                This is looking up from below. That boss is just enough to not allow my sliding the arm off. Will try a gentle lift of the engine.




                Western Washington, USA

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                • #9
                  It worked and I was able to slide the arm off, clean and swap out the hoses and am now buttoning things up. Hoping for no leaks!

                  Western Washington, USA

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    quote:Originally posted by tomnoller

                    It worked and I was able to slide the arm off, clean and swap out the hoses and am now buttoning things up. Hoping for no leaks!

                    Western Washington, USA
                    Tom-
                    Nice to know that technique worked. I have exactly the same car, and one of these days I'm gonna hafta do the same job. Now, how am I gonna remember what you did . . . . . . . . .?
                    Skip Lackie
                    Skip Lackie

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                    • #11
                      Skip, just drive her over and we'll do it together!

                      Western Washington, USA

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The front end to an avanti is magic, what goes on comes off....the hard way! Use an engine hoist to lift the engin after you loosen the motor mount and you should get clearance.

                        You will be surprised at how easy the avanti is to work on with little or no clearance in most case. They Jamed the engine into the car and make you work. Believe it, it comes together. Don't hesitate,rip it a part. Enjoy thee opportunity!

                        I'm a glutton for punishment,some friend told me the Avanti was easy to work on and fix yourself.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          You guys should try an change the plugs and EGR valve on an early LT1
                          powered 4th Gen Camaro (1993-1997) if you want difficult.

                          I have never come across anything on a Studebaker that compares.

                          Tom
                          '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                          Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                          I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I just want to mention one thing. Very few people service their power steering. I have found that if you change the power steering fluid every couple years or so you will have a lot less repairs on the system. The fluid may not be worn out but it can be full of contamenents (forgive spelling)

                            GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              quote:Originally posted by tomnoller

                              Skip, just drive her over and we'll do it together!

                              Western Washington, USA
                              With a 3.73 rear end and no overdrive, I'll be deaf by the time I get there.

                              Skip Lackie
                              Washington DC
                              Skip Lackie

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