Captain! We have a wee CS flange problem...

[studeclunker]

It seems that somewhere in the life of Pick-a-truck that one of the crankshaft flange bolts were broken off.[B)] It looks like the bolt was stripped while installing and would'nt come off or broke off in the past. I wouldn't know. I do know that If I'd broken it off there would have been...[:I] Um... Well, I'd remember it.

Two questions:

How do I get this out?

or

Can I just button it up and ignore it?

I would think that there would be a balance issue here. [}]

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

[JDP]

You'll need to drop the pan and rear main and replace it.


Studebaker On The Net
http://stude.com
Studebaker News Group
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
Arnold Md.
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1/AC
63 Lark 2 dr.
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark convert
60 Hawk
59 3E Truck
56 truck
55 Starlight
53 Starlight
52 Starliner
51 Commander

[studeclunker]

Pardon me but...
The whole Crankshaft???

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

[JDP]

No, just the rear main cap.


Studebaker On The Net
http://stude.com
Studebaker News Group
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
Arnold Md.
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1/AC
63 Lark 2 dr.
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark convert
60 Hawk
59 3E Truck
56 truck
55 Starlight
53 Starlight
52 Starliner
51 Commander

[studeclunker]

Oi vay!

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

[N8N]

Also, they are not standard hardware store bolts. The automatic flexplate ones are still available but the stickshift ones are unobtanium. You can make them from Grade 8 bolts but you need to grind one flat deeper on each bolt head.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[studeclunker]

Are they hardened steel? Can I drill it out and re-tap the threads?

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

[Roscomacaw]

Drill and retap WHAT threads???[B)] You replace the bolt, it has new threads on it.[:I]

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle!!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

[Transtar60]

Clunker, what Mr.Biggs is pointing out is, the crankshaft bolts slide through the flange, the bolt holes are not threaded.
Unless you have a modified crank or a brand x of some kind.

5E13
7E7
8E7
8E12
8E28
4E2
59 Lark
etc

[studeclunker]

Ok. Then What I'm talking about is what the bolts DO thread into. One of the bolts has broken off inside.
Once again, are the bolts hardened steel? Can I drill this out and retap, re-thread (whatever the heck you call it) the hole?
All I want to do is put the sixth bolt in again. That is, to replace the broken one.
I may just try to mount the torque converter and see if it all works.

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

[N8N]

I'm not following... the bolts in the crank flange should have nuts on them. Unless someone had an "issue" before and tapped the holes in the crank for larger bolts? Or are you talking about the bolts from the flexplate to torque convertor? If the latter I would probably pull the torque convertor so I could work on it on the bench, I just wouldn't feel comfortable trying to drill one out underneath the car, although it should theoretically be possible.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[JDP]

Maybe he's broken off a bolt into the torque convertor ? That could be removed and the bolt replaced, but don't try runnning it one bolt short.


Studebaker On The Net
http://stude.com
Studebaker News Group
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
Arnold Md.
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1/AC
63 Lark 2 dr.
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark convert
60 Hawk
59 3E Truck
56 truck
55 Starlight
53 Starlight
52 Starliner
51 Commander

[GTtim]

I have heard that sometimes people thread the bolt holes in the crank. That's the way it should have been done in the first place,... maybe!

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk

[studeclunker]

Ok, I'm going to start over.

I have two OHV sixes.
One was a manual in my '62 Champ. The Champ is a parts truck. The engine runs. However it was setup as a manual. I've pulled the flywheel off and am currently trying to install the torque converter and automatic from my other frozen OHV six.

The flywheel is off.
The flex plate is on. Well, five bolts and the flex plate are on. The sixth bolt is broken off inside. If this is a custom job, then I have two and they're identical to the manual.

Please turn in your required class text, Studebaker Passenger Car Shop Manual, to the Group III section, Engine 170, Flywheel and Crankshaft page 33 and fig. 49. Notice the arrows on the flywheel. They are pointing to the six bolts that hold the flywheel on.
THAT'S WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT!
One of those is broken off.
Now, gentlemen (no offense meant), please turn to page 35 of our text. Notice in fig. 55 there are six holes in the flange. There are threads in there that the bolts go into.
That's where the bolt is broken off into.

Now, how do I get the d... um, darned thing out?????


Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

[JDP]

OK, then the OHV six has threaded holes in the crank flange. Sorry, have not had a pan off a six in 30 years.


Studebaker On The Net
http://stude.com
Studebaker News Group
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
Arnold Md.
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1/AC
63 Lark 2 dr.
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark convert
60 Hawk
59 3E Truck
56 truck
55 Starlight
53 Starlight
52 Starliner
51 Commander