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Twin traction questions.

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  • Rear Axle: Twin traction questions.

    Well, I have had an interesting weekend with my Lark. I will give the "condensed version" here:
    I bought the lark about two and a half years ago, and noticed after a few months of driving a...whine, from the rear differential. I crawled under the car and noticed that the rear differential seal had a very slight leak. I checked the fluid level and noticed that is was a little more than half empty. Before I had bought this car, I had had no experience in Studebakers. I knew enough, however, that they did have something called "twin traction" and that you cannot put regular gear oil in a "TT". I had no idea how to check to see if it was a TT or not. So, logically, I figured I would ask the previous owner (who owned the car for over 7 years) if it had TT and how to recognize it. HIs words were almost verbatim:
    "That Lark does not have TT, If it did, it would say so somewhere, either on the pumpkin, or usually by a badge on the rear quarters." (okay, first of all, this guy had totally replaced the rear quarters, and must have removed all tags from the pumkin, because I found nothing that would indicate TT.)So I took his word for it and filled the differential with regular gear oil.

    Last week I was driving the thing down the road and the rear end began to lurch going around corners, and at slow speeds, almost like the rear end was loose. I could also hear a metal to metal "Clank" when I would shift from second to third. I thought that maybe my U joint was bad, or something in my rear end was loose. I jacked the car up to visually inspect the rear end, and found nothing out of ordinary. I then started the car and put her in gear to see that if I could see a looseness while the wheels were spinning. When I put the car in gear, the wheels were both spinning the same direction! So it has Twin Traction after all! Thanks alot previous owner.
    Well I drained the pumpkin and refilled it with gear oil with Posi-trac additive. The guys at NAPA assured me that this would be okay on the differential. Well, I noticed later that it drove much smoother, but I still hear the clank between gears sometimes...not always. Did I permanently damage my Differential? Or do I need to find some Real Twin Traction gear oil? Is the Additive okay to use? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to read all of this.


    She may have bugs and she may have dings, but that just proves I drive this thing!!

  • #2
    ...I'll guardedly say you don't have a serious problem in the rear end. When they're in trouble you'll hear them going down the road. Every TT I've had made some occasional clunking, much like U-joint sounds. Is this a standard tranny ?

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    • #3
      She has the 3 spd auto


      She may have bugs and she may have dings, but that just proves I drive this thing!!

      Comment


      • #4
        Years ago I owned a "brand X" with Positraction. On a trip to the coast on vacation(LONG WAYS FROM HOME) it started making terrible noises when turning corners. I "babied" it all week. Did not drive any more than I absolutly had to and made it back home without it "tearing up". Next day I took it the dealer to have it "checked out" After removing the rear cover and inspecting everything I was told it only needed the fluid changed and a bottle of "additive" Ifound this very hard to believe after the noises I had heard. The process was done and I NEVER HEARD ANOTHER NOISE ! I owned this car another 6 years.

        1961 Hawk 4BC,4-SPEED,TT

        Ken Byrd
        Lewisville,NC
        sigpic
        1961 Hawk ...4-Speed;4bc;Twin Traction


        Ken Byrd
        Lewisville,NC

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        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by blackhawk61

          Years ago I owned a "brand X" with Positraction. On a trip to the coast on vacation(LONG WAYS FROM HOME) it started making terrible noises when turning corners. I "babied" it all week. Did not drive any more than I absolutly had to and made it back home without it "tearing up". Next day I took it the dealer to have it "checked out" After removing the rear cover and inspecting everything I was told it only needed the fluid changed and a bottle of "additive" Ifound this very hard to believe after the noises I had heard. The process was done and I NEVER HEARD ANOTHER NOISE ! I owned this car another 6 years.

          1961 Hawk 4BC,4-SPEED,TT

          Ken Byrd
          Lewisville,NC
          Thanks, that puts my mind at ease a bit. If you do not mind me asking, what do you use in your Hawk?


          1963 Lark Custom, 259 V8, TT, 4 doors, 2 tone paint. Driven often, always noticed. Man I love this car!!

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          • #6
            Tutone,
            the gear oil with the additive is correct butis not enough to stop all noises, you have to add the small bolt of additive also . tHE CRUNK AND grind is the clutche not slipping . Ihave tt and posi's in all my vechicles .
            84 vette takes one bottle of additive.
            my h3 takes one bottle in each rear.
            My chev van 3/4 ton takes one.
            my 59 lark takes two
            My 60 lark takes one same rear as the 59.
            the additive wears out in time ,
            when the noises start or it starts dragging a wheel I figure out if is time to change the gear grease or just add a bottle .
            the bottles I am referring to are about 3 oz.s Sorry I don't remeber the name because I just ask for the limited slip additive at my auto parts store.
            JOE

            1959 HARDTOP R2 clone
            1960 conv
            SDC member since 1972
            1959 HARDTOP R2 4speed
            1960 conv R2 auto
            SDC member since 1972
            http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff21/59r2/DSC01514-3.jpg

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            • #7
              A question never answered, mine too: what fluid used in a 63 Hawk? Mobil one 75/90? It's GL5 rated with an additive.

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              • #8
                Standard Dino Oil GL-5 Gear Lube, 90 wt. or equivalent 85-90, 80-90 whatever, with a 4 OZ Bottle of Friction Modifier added if a Limited Slip Twin Traction Diff.

                I have never seen the need to change from what the Factory had in it, to a Synthetic like Mobil 1.

                The Parts Dept. at Chrysler/Jeep, Chev. or Ford carry the Additive, as well as the aftermarket Brands at Auto Parts Stores.
                A Dana 23,27 or 44 should NEVER require more than 1 Bottle per Oil Change.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                • #9
                  Thanks Rich. I was at Advance Auto Parts/Carquest today. They didn't carry that brand, I'll have to look around.

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                  • #10
                    I hope I did not mislead you! By saying: "Standard Dino Oil", it means ordinary Dinosaur remains crude Oil!

                    I mean't any Good Brand of GL-5 Gear Oil like StaLube, Quaker State, Valvoline, Pennzoil etc.
                    StudeRich
                    Second Generation Stude Driver,
                    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                    • #11
                      Thanks. They didn't have the synthetics back then as I recall. Wouldn't t run cooler with a synthetic gear lube?
                      Last edited by tim333; 09-08-2015, 03:14 AM.

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                      • #12
                        Any modern high grade, "name brand" oil will work just fine in older plate type posi. rear axles.
                        All modern synthetic oils will work just fine in older plate type posi. rear axles.

                        I haven't used an "additive" in any of my Positraction rear axles since the early-80's, just quality oils. Most WILL say on the bottle if they are up to the task of being usefull in a positraction differential. Just read the info on the bottle.

                        Any by the way, my 59 Lark wagon has no indication of having a positraction axle. But shortly after purchasing it, I removed the axle cover to give it an oil change...what to behold, a positraction unit is starting me in the face..!
                        I can give you several reasons why needing to "visually verify" that you do or do not have a posi. unit in your axle other than just spinning the tires..!

                        Mike

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                        • #13
                          Thanks Mike, I have the build sheet and original window sticker for my Hawk

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                          • #14
                            From the 1959 SAE transactions - The boys at DANA presented a paper on limited slip diffs. In those days there were often discussions and comments by the other SAE-ers. Here is Studebaker's comment, plus a couple more.
                            Attached Files

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